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TonyDakin

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  • Name
    Tony Dakin
  • Car
    502 Elite 1974
  • Location
    Northampton

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  1. Very sound advise Bob. Trouble is if I don't do it now , it will never get done. Once I've trimmed the boot out, the idea of returning to it to add or change doesn't appeal. Planning to play around with lengthening the lever arm this week end. I recon I can extend from 75mm arm to 100mm, which will increase effective force by 30%. I think I can maintain enough stroke although might need a bit of pre load on the cable to the lock. It did occur to me that 3 in parallel is always an option, but then is that a bit OTT?
  2. Thanks Mike. link seems to be to 24V units, but will have a search for 12V. I've been experimenting a bit. With a spring balance, looks like approx. 10Kg force is needed with stroke at 20mm at the point standard pull cable attaches. Acquired a central locking kit with 20mm stroke actuators. First attempt was a direct mounting. Complicated as actuator needs to pivot, but quickly learnt one actuators was not strong enough. It also took up too much space around the lever arm for my new boards ( not yet carpeted) to fit. Force is about 12kg once energised, but appears mechanism needs more to "break out". Second generation is 2 actuators strapped in parallel and pulling on a cable. If I can make this work, I can mount on the back bulk head of the boot. Almost there. It works, but only just (Photo of the lash up attached). Spring return is not quite enough to reset it, but could easily add some springs - but then I'd need more force. It's also very sensitive to a good straight cable run - which I'll struggle to get if I mount it where there's room on the bulkhead. Picking up on Richards point, I'd plan to keep the manual pull as a reserve, so next step maybe is to lengthen the lever arm slightly. Hopefully I can maintain enough stroke and obviously get more force with the longer lever. That will also allow the manual cable to go back where it's designed to connect to.- More development work needed, but I feel I'm on the right line - Will keep all informed - but don't expect quick answers, this is a slow, long term renovation !!!
  3. Quick update. Making progress. but has anyone succeeded with an electric boot release? I'm struggling to find any actuator that looks to have enough pull force with required travel.
  4. I've investigated further over the weekend. Mine had the curved spring, but still wouldn't work. The problem was the two external contacts had "opened up" and were too far apart. Result was the spring flipped the centre contact from one state to the other, rather than acting as a return spring. Squeezing the switch across the contacts made it work. Small tie wrap to the rescue and it's working now, but for how long I don't know. Not exactly a robust switch...
  5. What a good question. .. Saw your post yesterday and thought it would be obvious - but it aint ! This must take an award for over complication . The switch mechanism from my 74 car is not there - Which explains why for 30 years I've not even known there was boot light. - So onto the alternative later solution: The later mechanism I've got is from about 78 / 79 car. I just put a meter across the wires, operated the pull cable - No signal change ( open circuit). Took the rubber boot off to the reveal switch and absolutely packed solid with paper and tissue, to make sure the contact never made - Obviously the previous owner of this had problems and bodged it to make sure it didn't stay on and drain the battery. !!!! It's a micro switch with a lever that should be pushed down by the end of sharp pointy bit mounted to the glass tailgate, to switch it off ( break circuit) - BUT - On mine it's an "over centre" toggle lever, so the switch changes state, then latches on until you push it back by hand !!. All I can think is that the pointy bit has or had a groove in it to pick up on the end of this toggle lever to physically push / pull it in both directions, but I can't check the pin tonight as it's tucked away in the roof of the garage. Having looked at it though ( and the paper pack) it's obviously not reliable, so I recon I'll be looking to change the design, probably to a micro switch with a sprung roller actuator if I can fit it in. - Oh well - One more job on the to do list Will post again if I either crack the original design puzzle, or succeed in my mission of alternative design.
  6. Are you just looking for the motor? or cable as well? I have a spare motor, but not sure if front or rear - I need to check.
  7. Can't answer right now, but been I've been working on repairing the wiring in the boot today and was looking at the feed to the switch. To be honest, I never even knew there was a light in the boot until today. I'll look tomorrow at the switch mechanism And let you know what I find. I have two locks, the original one from my car which is an early model, and one from a about 1979 which I plan on fitting. I think they are different, so supports an earlier post. Does your switch feed have a small 2 pin plug and sockets (later type) , or two separate bullet plugs (earlier type)? Tony
  8. Thanks Iain. That's very much confirmed my thoughts. I made a box when I first bought the car along the lines of the "rear opening". Although I can't recall modelling on anything, I recon I'll just be recovering that in a consistent carpet finish as I retrim the rest of the boot. History in Brief: I bought the car in 84, ran it for 4 or 5 years then one winter got fed up of de icing the inside as much as the outside !!! That's Lotus for you - - Don't we just love 'em. Took it off the road - Body off - Chassis refurbished by Spyder - Rebuilt chassis with new shocks and bushes and body back on. Body work rubbed back and did 75% of a re-spray ( couldn't afford to get a professional job), --- That took us up to about 1992, then marriage, kids, house moves and you can guess the rest.... It kinda stopped progressing ( and in reality started going backwards). Several false starts to get going again, but then 6 weeks ago went along to the show at NEC, met the guy's on the Éclat stand and the bug seems to be returning. I may well start a post on the refurb section of the site. - Starting with something simple and contained like the boot area. Attached a couple of photo's from about 3 years ago when I rolled it out the garage and come closest to the danger zone of restarting Another request : Anyone got the items 9, 11 and 12 from the diagram at top of post still in their car, who could measure and send me the dimensions (including cut outs). I can always make to eye, but the closer I can keep to original the happier I'll be on these details. Now back to catching up on 8 years of post ( 18 pages worth) on this Elite / Excel / Éclat section. Coming across some usefull detail Tony
  9. TonyDakin

    TonyDakin

  10. Hi all. Looking for information about boot trim on the early Elite (74). I've seen many Battery covers with the jack opening at the front, with a kind of Hinged flap and stud. They also have a rubber retainer at the rear, presumably to hook onto something to hold it in place. But picture below and a line drawing of the battery area in the manual suggest opening to the rear. I've also read test reports on early cars saying the battery cover is top heavy and keeps falling forward. Anyone know if the one with rubber retainer was a later "improved version"? Thanks, Tony
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