free hit
counters
dbo - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

dbo

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About dbo

  • Birthday January 16

More Info

  • Name
    Darren Bovis
  • Car
    v6 exgie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. dbo

    Lotus Exige Cup 430

    Yes, thats the tube. You need to plug it on the charger. you can plug the tube side if you want also, but it doesnt matter.
  2. dbo

    Lotus Exige Cup 430

    Just to be complete, the ECU electronically controls a valve in the engine bay to allow the vacuum to flow from the engine to the exhaust actuator or not. If the vacuum is allowed, it will pull the butterfly closed on the straight through pipe entering the silencer, thus changing to 'quiet mode'. The butterfly is sprung in the pipe to be open by default, so removing the capability for the vacuum to reach the actuator means the exhaust remains in big bore/straight through mode regardless of what the ECU does with the valve. As for ECU knowing, there is no sensor on the vacuum portion of this control or actuator, and from a logical pov, why would it care as the (engineering) problem is if the exhaust is kept in quiet mode while under load, not opened. Id expect that the ECU can monitor the controls it sends to the electronic valve (in the engine bay) to ensure its functional.
  3. dbo

    Lotus Exige Cup 430

    If you dont mind the exhaust always open, you can pull the tube between the supercharger and the small pressure canister (or pressure canister to ECU controlled valve), and plug it. I have seen another post which places a (fish tank) 1 way lever valve in this line which gives the option of manually enabling/disabling if thats more appropriate for you.
  4. The only real modification needed was to allow entry for the hid globes to enter the headlamp enclosure. This can be done through the existing rubber boot and use the globes grommet to seal, or as a slit on the side of the plastic lip which the boot fits over. Naturally, the existing wiring needs to be adapted for the relay harness, but can be done to make it easily reversible. Honestly, I had to do a reasonable amount of work to find the correct projector and building an adapter plate which doesn't modify the internal headlamp mounting/aiming components and works with existing shroud. In fact I only converted a single headlamp initially to test the solution and light pattern output to ensure there wasn't other problems with the offset of the high beam and low beam projectors, and hence needed to make sure I could revert back to standard if it didn't work. I have a 430 on order, so will need to install again on it when it arrives. I have been tossing up if there is interest or not in putting together a kit to make it possible for others to convert with the least amount of fuss. I guess I would need to first work out the costs involved as I just did it originally for myself, since I already needed to open the enclosure due to a failed aiming screw which had snapped and I didn't want to pay for a new headlamp which was the only solution from lotus. I'm on holidays at the moment, but if you are interested let me know and I can send you some pictures of the light output pattern which is frankly the way it should have been from factory and go from there. Darren.
  5. Yes, you need to replace the projectors which are 3 inch mirror and 2.5 inch front lens which creates the long and thin poor light. I have replaced with a set of proper 2.5 inch projectors with bi xenon cut off's fit high beam and they are fantastic. The light pattern is wide and bright and has great cut off at the top when aligned.
  6. Trevor, For me, fitting a better globe into the same projector just ended up with longer still thin streams of light (no spread). I had one of the adjusters break in one of my lights leaving it limp and pointing down. With the price of a replacement light being so high, I decided to look at repairing it myself (nylon threaded rod junk - .50c part failure). While I had the light body opened, I decided to see why the current dip light beams are so terrible. I think that the real issue is rather simple. Lotus (or their light manufacturer) have used a 3 inch reflector mounted to a 2.5 inch lens. This creates the long and thin stream of light we all deal with. I purchased some 2.5" HID projectors, globes and decent 35w digital ballasts and globes and custom built a step down ring to fit these into the existing plastic mechanism/mounts lotus have used. TNH, It was a fair bit of stuffing about and you need to be careful with the length and width of the 2.5" projector to ensure it can still be aimed and doesnt foal on the shrouds or the space used to mount the 3" projector bases. There is also making the mounts to ensure that the protectors are horizontal when mounted into the headlamp enclosures which are not designed level once out of the car (you will know once you look at it - you need to have it mounted into the car to ensure the mounting step down rings will mount the new projector horizontal). Also you need to get access for the HID globe wiring to enter the headlamp enclosures so there is some minor changes that need to be made (as with slicing from exiting harness to make sure its returnable if desired). Naturally you need to close them back up to be water tight with butex. The aiming of the new lights was pretty simple. The projectors are 'bi-xeon' which really just means that the cutoff's at the bottom of the projector will drop by a relay and hence allow full light out once high beam is engaged. Overall, for me it was *well* worth the effort (I tested with the one headlight just patched together first before opening up the second and fitting everything in correctly) and I have a very clean and clear HID cutoff and wide and deep vision now with normal beam, and high beam has even deeper coverage. Id say that the lighting is now what you would expect from a modern car and makes it a pleasure to drive at night. There is still a 'darker spot' directly in front of the car and this is due to the shape of the lights, mounting position of the main beams, design of the shrouding, angle of the aiming given the car is so low, and that we are using 2.5" (motor cycle) projectors, but I dont find this a problem. As an estimate, I would roughly say that its around 2-3m distance in front of the car before the light hits the road.
×
×
  • Create New...