v8GTmac1
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I foreseen this happening so I had these made. 6061 aluminum with a standard bearing readily available single and double row. Shoot me a message if i can help.
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Yes you are right. The further away from the throttle body the better for the atomization. I wasn’t thinking when I placed them on the intake plenum. So if someone wants to put them soon after the turbos but have BOV just know that methonal will be sprayed out every time. I feel these cars already have a bad reputation of burning to a crisp don’t want to add to it. Luckily the Hhqs can be converted to diverter valve. And to add, diverting to the air filter box may create a nice pop or flame when the meth is introduced on decel hehehe
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Hi Mike. They are 2 nozzles for the water/meth injection places in the worst spot possible. This location never worked and would only cause a misfire with meth applied. Assuming uneven distribution of methonal due to not being atomized properly. The correct place would be before the throttle bodies. But always after the BOV so as to not spray residual meth out into the engine bay when the BOV opens or you could just convert these HKS ssqv to recirculate back to the air filter boxes.
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When my ac leak came down to the GM seals on the back of the compressor. It was holding vacuum. But when I introduced new Freon it was immediately blown out. Those seals will seal a vacuum but not hold pressure. Compressor does not need to be removed. Simply loosened and moved forward a bit to access the hex bolt. Clean the area and lube the new seals. careful with them as they are easily damage. These seals can be bought in a GM seal kit or courced individually for any GM car that uses the compressor. I learned to buy them individually and bought 10 for the price of 1 GM kit that has seals you don’t need.
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From my experience back when I first bought my 2000. I also had a misfire that was only noticed due to hearing a popping sound from the left exhaust tip. The progression of the misfire led to damaged coil pack and ecu onboard ignitor. My assumption was that the dying coilpack damaged the ignitor. Seeing this as an issue that would continue to happen is the main reason why I did a full standalone conversion. even though i was able to repair the ecu myself. Right after I noticed another cylinder misfiring. My advice on coilpacks and wires is to make them a priority. I bought my Esprit with 43k miles and came with fat unmarked red wires more then likely sourced from JAE and I am still using them with my Ls1 coilpack conversion. The red wires where never the problem. Although the top portion you grab onto likes to separate. You have to be sure the wire is making contact with the end of the spark plug. It’s like you don’t actually feel it grab, but you know it’s making contact if you look inside and measure the distance.
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Guess I will chime in here. Being that I run a stand-alone ecu. I have done all this. Forr the EGR valve I had to make 2 blanking plugs and sandwiches them in there with some silicone otherwise I was getting a boost leak past the valve stem of the actually moving valve that’s viable. The egr port off the left exhaust manifold simply needs to be tapped and plugged don’t remember exact but something like a 1/2” npt For the air pump system once removed you also just tap and plug as you might see in this pic there’s the plug with Teflon tape then on the pass side head you have another air injection port that is a BSP thread which I believe is 1/4” BSP the plug I had to order online
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I have done a great deal of searching and I finally struck gold with this gentlemen that appears to be Canadian. There you will find as you scroll down, all the dimensions you need. Dont miss the part where the flywheel sits 25.1mm in the engine block which you will have to make up for. Especially if you are using the Subby flywheel re-drilled that means 25.1mm adapter plate plus whatever your 907 crank mating surface comes out past the bellhousing mating surface. Let me know how it goes! http://electric-wrx.epizy.com/adapter.html?i=1
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You got 34mph out of your v8 esprit????? I have managed to get 20mpg averaging 80 mph. Yikes,
Anyways I like what you are doing with the 918 into the Excel And i'm curious what method you used to make the adapter plate?
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Hi.
I measures the Toyota W58 bell housing and it was longer than the V8 bell housing by 26mm. So I am using the V8 housing with a 26mm alloy spacer. I aligned the Toyota geabox input shaft with the hole on the V8 bellhousing using a shaft that fitted V8 on one end and Toyota at the other. The alloy plate was counterbored with the holes to fit the toyota box so they were slightly below the surface. This then left the plate clear to drill through holes to bolt the V8 housing on. There was a clash of one bolt on the V8 bell housing , so another was redrilled off set enough to miss. You would need a lathe to make the shaft up or a friendly machine shop owner. The spigot bearing in the V8 crank is swapped for the Excel one (same outer diameter but bigger inner) The two slide togrther perfectly. next job is to make the clutch friction plates with toyota splines instead of the AP clutch Reault splines. Apologies if this is not clear I am not very good at describing things. The geabox needs to be perfectly in line with the crank to avoid any reliability problems.
The tip I got about the V8 economy was from Phil at South West Lotus. He said keep the speed under 100mph and boost low and 30 mpg is acheivable. I normally get about 24 mpg from the Esprit using it locally. My Excel 2.2 does about the same with those dellorto carbs. Anns M100 does about 35 mpg on a run. All 3 cars have done the Monaco, Italy run and the Excel is the most uneconomical of all.
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Everybody needs an obd2 code reader. It will give you trouble codes if the computer can see something wrong. In some model readers you will even get RPm signal reading which rules out the ckp and cam sensors. But you can skip this by checking for spark. Spark will tell you the ecu is reading RPM correctly. You can actually pull out a coil wire off the spark plug and listen to the sparks jump during cranking provides there is not much ambient noise. Not too far off the plug that the spark won’t jump and instead hit a different ground point. This method could be aided by using a stethoscope to listen closely. Timing light method is safer overall. -
Good idea on finding bike friendly routes. This road wasn’t picked out by accident lol. The wife was all for it when she saw how twisty it was. It’s just too bad I don’t have any GoPro type camera.
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We are taking 4 days off to go to Cali and doing a run up for a nice hike. Anyone familiar with the roads can tell me a better way ? it starts on Yerba Buena rd Up to Mishe Mokwa where we can find various trailheads. I would take
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Seems I found the proper thread for this
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i dealt with this low-fuel relay yesterday. traced the issue from the sender to the light and found there was this doohickey under the hood. Took it out and sure enough keeping the light on. It was the craziest coincidence that I was re-calibrating my fuel gauge needle to then have this happen? I was so confused. I opened it, re-soldered everything and working good now. I was about to put the jumper wire but it's now good. you did great work here, you mind doing one for the factory ECU?
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That explains what’s happening there. Does it add up rhatvthe poay is only on that cylinder? good job on the pulley, learned something new.
