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Agreed, but I got both, because there was no PS4S in the correct size for my fronts. Plus I only have 280BHP, which is less than a lot of hot hatches these days 🙂

Nice circuit. That McLaren really doesn't have a great-sounding engine, does it?

If you have any fronts, I'd be interested.

Michelin PS4 also very good, if you cannot get PS4S in the right size.

..and the PS4 (non-S) comes out as just as good for road use as the PS4S on Tyrereviews, too.

Lotus does have a lot of nice blue paint colours.

I have black wheels on my blue NA - which I like even though I tend not to generally - but those do look wonderful. Are they Lotus OEM, or some other make? I might keep my eyes out for those in the future.

I had a similar experience from CamSkill on another make of car, I'm afraid.

That's brilliant information, thanks @agentdr8.

Oh sorry , missed that Bruss, thank you.

LOL the fuel filler-cap was down to a loose relay; they are right next to each other in the rear fuse-box panel and in swapping them over for testing, the filler-cap one wasn't quite clicked into place. One less drama, but a tad embarrassing ☺️. So.....back to the air-con only: Does anyone have a clue where the ICM is physically situated at all? Thanks @agentdr8 for the comment on C9. 👍. Do any of you whizzes know the whether the trinary switch be to earth, or live (green box)? Don't want to fry the ECU.......

Well it's not the battery, sadly. Have jury-rigged two wires to the fuel filler-cap to activate the solenoid with 12v if needed. Tested the compressor and it works fine if powered up separately. I'm guessing that somewhere in the loom from the dash area back to the engine there's a loose connector/wire......will 'enjoy' tracing that over the next few days. The common part I can see in both diagrams is the busbar; anyone know where the connectors from that are?

Thanks, I hope that fixes it - CTEK working hard right now 🙂

This is how I shop for tyres: use tyrereviews' comparison for the size I need. https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Michelin/Pilot-Sport-Cup-2.htm/price/285-30-20 https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Michelin/Pilot-Sport-4-S.htm/price/285-30-20 https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Search/Size/285-30-20

Many thanks guys. Will continue to work on this today and yes battery was a thought; will look at it closely.

All in here: Why these should be replaced Cheers.

Also, some questions about the wiring diagram, if anyone can help please? 1) What sort of resistance is normal for the thermister (red box) on a 20℃? 2) Should the trinary switch be to earth, or live (green box)? 3) Same for C9 (blue box)? p.s. what is the ICM and where is it, please? Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, The gremlins are well and truly loose in my 2010 NA 😞 . First problem is the air-con stopped working a few days ago. The car was being tested all day today and it's definitely not the compressor (can be fired up electrically), or the speed-switch. We've tested many of the wires to the ECU and we're trying to narrow down the problem. HOWEVER, on the way home I had seen the drive-off-locking feature in the manual and armed it by pressing the door-lock switch for 5 seconds. Then the fuel-filler cap wouldn't open, but that's a "feature" of this system. So I turned it off, but now the fuel-filler cap still won't open! i've tried recycling the auto-lock several times but I'm completely unable to get fuel into the car. Also there is the door-open buzzer sounding even when the key is NOT in the ignition slot. Car starts and runs normally, otherwise (well it will, until it runs out of fuel).... Any ideas on this? Are there any known weak points with the wiring around the ignition area/instrument panel?

Got a feeling they're Saab items, aren't they?

My air-con died on Monday. Did same 2 years ago (on a hot day, of course); turned out stone damage had killed the condenser and debris had killed the compressor. REALLY hoping it's not that again (not cheap, nor simple, to source parts). Will be going to the guys who rebuilt my system on Monday....fingers crossed it's just a little gas loss.

What about changing the oil lines from rubber to the new metal pipes?

They're probably the best do-everything cars there are, but we all know the saying about jack-of-all-trades.....

I've got a Panamera for touring and an Evora for B-roads. The 911 tries to do both (and looks huge...). I'll wager my cars do their respective jobs better than the 911.

I had this on a (German arse-end 'sports' car) before and it was the ignition coils. Might be useful to check similar on your car?

Just be warned that they are f. loud!