Htown

Every current WRC team except Mitsubishi is using Green. If that tells you anything....

Blow thru it on both ends, one direction should flow freely, the other direction... no flow. It is there to prevent manifold pressure from making it to the crankcase. It should be installed so that there is no flow from manifold to crankcase, but good flow from crankcase to manifold. Sorry, can't remember which color is which end right now.

Good recirc valves don't have to be expensive... The latest 710N or 710S Audi valves are super responsive, quiet, can hold around 20lbs, and can be bought for $20-30 in the states. They are plastic, so they really can't be mounted too close to the turbo. I run a 710N on my UrS4, which runs about 18-20psi, I acutally ditched the Bailey DV30 in favor of the 710N. The Bailey piston melted (yes, melted) after about a year of hard use. I bought two 710N's just in case. Your turbo will be much happier with some type of valve. edit... 710N's can be found on the 190 bhp 1.8t VW and Audis

I'll see if I can get a couple pics tonight, should help clarify...

ygm

Gee, I don't know.... Maybe ask this guy... http://www.glcforum.com/esprit/forums/inde...?showtopic=5182

Non waste spark as in.....? coil on plug? I don't know, spend twice as much on the motec system? but why? Waste spark just means that there are only two coils on a four cylinder car for example. the coil fires both cylinders at the same time and 'wastes' one spark in the process. would not necessarily need a waste spark ecu, but why not? It's a perfectly good type of ignition. Keep the stock coils, and spend half as much as comparible stand-alone management. As far as the secondaries, sure, they could be 86'd, and run some big primaries. Better yet, set it all up to spray alchohol thru the secondary injector plenum... They Beauty of the 034 system is that it is like $1200. oh yeah, and anti-lag. I don't care what it blows up in the process, anti-lag is T*ts.

Just another output. On an Espirt 4cyl waste spark system, these would be used to run the coils. Since the 1c ECU only has 6 drivers, the secondary injector ecu would be need to run the secondaries. Craig

If I may make a suggestion.... Instead of trying to slap band-aids on the factory system...why not just run a waste-spark compatible stand alone? http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info....;products_id=35 run some secondaries with this... http://www.034motorsport.com/034SupECU.html They run off GM sensors...not to mention it has an adjustable anti-lag function (drool). Do it right, do it once. but that's just me. Craig

Only when they are on slicks...

Thanks everyone... Guess you can tell how often I visit the General Section! Craig

Nope... Too bad, best part of the site.

They're not... the AAN 20V 5cyl is a much better option. That's why I own one...

245/35/17'S....mine never rub. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?mak...tirePageLocQty= fwiw, Craig

You're on your own with the samco hose, but here you go... http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=BOV Craig Edit: T-piece hoses... http://www.sporthoses.com/parts/FMPro?-db=...&-max=all&-find

Sorry, I was a little confused. Did not realise that the throttle bodies were staying in place. I just removed the plenum/intake assembly all at once.

Pull the coolant hose for sure. You want to get most of the coolant out of the system when removing the intake to insure that no coolant gets into the combustion chambers. once everything is disconnected, grab the intake just above the coils and wiggle up and down till it becomes loose. There is a sensor plug underneath the intake that needs to be unplugged before it will all come out though. I feel your pain about the secondary injectors... thank god for the snap-on truck! The right tools make life soooo much easier.

Don't feel bad... I had to re-weld portions of my Neil Micklewright exhaust. It happens.

Good vid, thanks, B)

Ok, I'll play....

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Dude- can you take the girly picture off so the rest of us can view at least one thread on this site at work without getting the stink-eye from a boss?

#6 Code will eat a stock turbo alive real quick on the track....ask me how I know.

I order it all from hoerr racing products... www.hrpworld.com

I can only assume you have some version of the Renault box so... The gearbox and final drive share a common oiling system. I use Redline MT90... God's own gift to transmissions... Also use Redline 50WT racing oil in the engine. (with extremely frequent oil changes) Clutch and brakes get ATE SuperBlue In my experience, any of these fluids will stand up to the most severe punishment.