free hit
Htown's Content - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


Basic Account
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Htown

  1. Electric chargecooler pump gave up.  There is a new Bosch 317 gph (5.3gpm) pump going in today.  

    We are thinking that the fueling issue may be a combination of things.

    Will start fresh tonight looking at fuel pressure again.  With the cam timing change, one would expect less vacuum at idle, but does not really explain it rich across the rpm range (unless the FPR is having issues)

    Will update as we go...

    Thanks again guys.


  2. 6 hours ago, fjmuurling said:

    Just had a quick look at your log file and found the following:

    Thanks Freek,

    I can not find the engine RPM in the file.

    Engine RPM is column 'DW'

    The Oxygen sensor voltage is swinging but looks not completely right.

    I'll cross-reference the voltage with the old O2 back and do another log to at least rule out the sensor and then start looking at the circuit.

    The ACT temperature is high, never falls below 40 deg C, there is a spike to 140 deg C and most of the time it is above 60 deg C.

    Ambient temp was around 96F that day.  Car sat for about 4hours after a 'spirited' 25 mile drive.  Not sure if it had a chance to fully cool.  I saw that one cell at 143 act during warmup as well, which a chalked up to a glitch since it was only in one cell, but I will certainly vac-fill and re-bleed the CC circuit.  Pump is definitely moving coolant, but that seems high to me as well with a working WC pump setup and Alunox intercooler.  What is odd, is that during a previous log (went my Freescan laptop crapped out)  The car was pulling VERY strong in 5th gear at max boost, with no indication that it did not like the charge air temps.  With the original chargecooler, intake temps would rise enough to limit boost in 5th if I pushed it long and hard enough. (tough to do this without going to jail)   Will revisit that and update.  

    I agree with Travis, run "normal" NGK spark plugs, BPR6EKN from memory if I'm right.

    Yep, brand new set of EKN's installed about a week ago.  Same symptoms with the denso's.  The only thing I do not like about the NGK's is that they seem push some gasses past the porcelain  when pushed hard.  Had the same issue on my UrS4 at 20psi on the NGK's as well.  Never saw that happen on the IW22's, but NGK's are currently installed.

    What kind of Oxygen sensor are you using?

    Brand new Bosch 13030.  Same behavior with the original O2.

    Looks like you have a problem in your chargecooler circuit. Chargecooler pump working? No air in the CC cooling liquid? ACT sensor OK? Wiring fault in the ACT sensor circuit?

    Again, will verify and report back.

    I do notice some faults registering in the 'Low Battery IAC Inhibit flag' Column (CW) at rows 4754+, 4863+, 4900, 4927+, 5035+ etc...  No idea what the heck that is trying to tell me, but with odd O2 voltage sweeps and this fault, I may have some power supply issues to remedy.

    Again, If there is anyone that can explain the two needed wires for the ecu on non-a/c cars, I would be REALLY interested in the definition of what they change/do.  I don't have section MK at all in my books (Fox Valley sent me an EMH with a bunch of duplicates and MK missing 15 years ago).






  3. 15 minutes ago, Vulcan Grey said:

    replace the Densos with the normal NGK's IMO...

    Where did you get the green dot cam pulleys? Did you verify they are correct? Someone else got 2 green dots that didn't line up with each other!

    Put some fresh Ngk's in a week ago with no real change.  New Genuine wire set, new coils.

    Tom and Randy supplied one of the pulleys with the long block and the other came from my original aux drive.  I'll admit, the paint marks on the one they sent were faded/gone, but seemed to check out per Tim's 9xx cam pulley mop and timing dots article.  It was quite a long time ago though.  Will recheck.  Did you see anything off in the timing column?  Belt/pulley changes should only take an hour or so now with no vac pump and no a/c.  Best pic I have on file...


  4. Oh Great, Powerful, Wise, Weapons grade autistic Hive....  :P

    Need some help figuring out why my 1990 SE is running so rich.  HC's and CO are way too high at idle and worse at 2500.  As you will see, the car is trying hard to pull fuel.  Won't even pass the two stage idle test.


    A little background...

    Car received a reconditioned long block sourced from the boys in Florida after the timing belt lost some teeth.  Rotating assembly was fine, but the top end was done.   Of course, the pop and drop on the motor turned into a two year process of 'improvements'.  I'll give you the short list; some of it was in place before the transplant, and some of it is new to this build.

    Original config:

    GT2871R w. .64a/r hot side and .60a/r .56trim/71mm cold side.  Dual BB chra.  ATP ultimate internal wastegate setup.  Was running a 1 bar actuator and Hallman mbc back then.  (original exh manifold)

    Five-o 370cc primaries and 270cc secondaries.

    #6 code from WC (years ago I had sourced the red chip from another vendor and it was corrupt.  John helped me many moons ago with a replacement chip, but I have absolutely no idea of it's details/targets.  it's a 278A prom ID and seemed to behave like a #6 should before the engine swap).  It would quick pass emissions in this configuration every two years.

    3" Lh exit exhaust with ATP 100 cell cat.

    WC chargecooler pump

    Greddy type RS bov

    Throttle jack and EBPV garbage removed

    There is a really long list of other chassis stuff, but none of it would contribute to fueling, or had anything to do with the engine bay, so I'll try to keep it short.

    denso iw22 plugs

    New items adding during the motor swap:

    Green dot pulleys on both cams

    A/C is completely gone.  Condensor, compressor, drier, lines are now on a shelf.

    Vacuum pump conversion to Hella UP28 for heater controls and brake booster only.

    Latest Alunox manifold, same turbo, but now back to ecm wastegate control with new garrett 6-7psi capsule set as close as humanly possible to .65bar, and rh exit.  All 3" bits.

    Latest Alunox chargecooler

    Five-O 380cc EV-1 green top primaries (same 270cc secondaries as before)  All ohm out in spec.

    26"x7"x2" radiator for chargecooler circuit.  Every hose/line/fitting on both engine and cc circuits are new

    Again, a bunch of other stuff on the chassis that has nothing to do with engine management.


    I recorded this log today.  Coldish start, warm up to 80C, a couple minutes of normal surface street driving, a few wfo hits, and then I tried my best to keep it at light pedal at or slightly above 3k rpm.  (Just happens to be it's most pissed off moments).  Aside from overfueling and the lack of ability to deal with it at light throttle cruising at or above 3K, it runs stronger than I have ever known.  Hopefully, smarter people than I can decipher why it's running so fat. Compression is good, valves are spot on, fuel pressure(s) are right.  cam timing is right.  No restrictions prior to turbo.  No faults.

    My laptop that was running Freescan took a dump, and have had good success with TunerPro comms on windows 10.

    My brain is toast hunting this down.  Data needs a fresh set of eyes.

    One thing in specific I was hoping someone could answer:

    Of the VERY few non-a/c cars, I know that they utilized a couple more pins at the ecu.  Can anyone confirm why?  I can't image it having anything to do with this issue, but thought I would at least ask.  Fan control is normal/optimal.

    Thanks very, very much in advance!  Car is scheduled to participate in the Race Against Kids Cancer July 29th at HPR.  I'm alright with it running fat for the event, but still need to get it plated again, and sooty bumpers are stupid.














  5. So...  what SHOULD be in the drop down box that I posted as blank in the image above?  Been through all the browsers/devices at my disposal with all caches clean home/office/mobile  etc...

    Guess I could just try delete the vehicle and start over, but wanted to avoid that.

  6. Tried multiple browsers, multiple PC's and also mobile device.  Same issue regardless. .

    Also cannot delete old pictures attached to my vehicle...  pretty much anything that would require me to hit the 'save' button at the bottom of the edit vehicle screen/images etc., will not work.

     Hope that helps

    Thanks again,


  7. 3 hours ago, Zig said:

    This is exactly what I always face with UPS....  They use their own branch (UNITED PARCEL SVC. 1930 Bishop Lane Suite 200 Louisville-KY 502-485-2222) as "customs clearing house" and charge you $38.88 for filing a single statement page for US customs and then collect "well deserved fee" from you...

    If you call them and give them tracking number you can give them credit card number and clear it.  They will deliver the package 1 day later, otherwise driver will demand a Money Order or Check, because driver does not accept cash or credit cards.


    1930 Bishop Lane Suite 200

    Thursday, September 22, 2016

    Status: Accepted
    Account/CPP Number(s): 7US2EFAV00
    Account/CPP Name(s): G
    Account/CPP Name(s): Zig
    Merchant#: 00000033648
    Card Type: Master Card
    Auth#: 39294P
    Total Transaction Amount: 38.88
    Invoice Number(s): Invoice Amount(s):
    3Y975FVFJGW 38.88

    I was not asked for anything at drop off from UPS.  manifold only though....

  • Create New...