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  1. 328~330mm seems to be about the max to fit under stock 17's. I've had the Lotuspbc front 4pot dynalite setup for a few years, and hate it. The rotors are only .81" thick, and hot spotted on the first track day. I think even the 6pot setup they have now still use the thin rotor. Claudius was very reluctant to investigate using a thicker rotor for some reason. Anyway, I'm in the process moving the 11.2x.81 rotor and dynalites to the rear, and have purchased Wilwood ITG4R's for the front on Performance Friction, slotted 328x35mm rotors. This should remove about 12lbs at each rear corner, and offer a four corner vented setup. Hats are bespoke Essex units. Caliper mounts are bespoke from the local machine shop. The Itg4r's are basically a 4pot caliper in a 6pot housing. This way, I'm not overwhelming the factory master cylinder. Lines are all from Earl's. ATE blue fluid.

    I found the Lotuspbc kit to be a great improvement over stock on the street, but they just won't handle the abuse of constant heat cycles at the track. I fear that the 6pot kit from them is going to show the same short-comings.

    Anyway, a couple of pics of the new front bits....



  2. The GT3267 and 71 are sweet turbos, but they only seem to come with journal bearings instead of ball bearings. It would be nice if the GT3071 came with twin scroll AND were internally gated


    This is as close as it gets...

    Don't see why a GT BB CHRA couldn't be stuck in it, but it is internally gated.

    The GT3267 - 452233 - 5 is also internally gated, twin scroll, but, again would need a BB CHRA

  3. I just came across this thread and am also looking to install a new turbo in my 1990 SE. With that said I am upgrading the fuel pump, primary and secondary injectors, charge cooler and pump, and also the memcal. I am thinking about the Garrett GT3071R turbo has anyone used this before on their car? How dose it compare to the WC stage II?



    Better choice would be the Gt3267R or Gt3271R. Both of the them are twin-scroll hot sides, and appropriate to fit the T3 flanged, factory pulse manifold. On that note... Internally gated, twin scroll turbine housings seem to be made from un-obtanium. Evo VIII's come with a factory twin scroll, internally gated turbo, but the exhaust inlet ports on the turbine housing are not side-to-side, as in the T3 twin scrolls. They are offset 45degrees in the flange.

    happy hunting,


  4. It's only "bad" if it's beyond being rebuilt. That being said, if the cost of rebuilding is greater than the total cost of a different unit from another source, then yes, it's junk, in my eyes. If the case is cracked, done. holes in the case? done. creatures living in it? done. Pretty much everything else can be replaced or refurbished. Kicking it while it lies on the garage floor is really not the best way of diagnosing a tranny's condition. Figure out what it would cost to rebuild before taking it home. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.

  5. Hi Craig,

    What you say is very interesting ...

    I always thought, if the hoses look good and are not bent/kinked there should be no problem.

    ... could you please explain where the problem is with these hoses.



    Well, all I know is that it was such a big deal to my supplier, that he actually had a pre-made form for each and every turbo he sold. There is apparently the possiblity of oil sludge becoming dislodged when the feed line is removed from the old turbo and moved around/ handled. At the very least, I would recommend removal and complete cleaning of the line (if it appears to be in good shape) before re-installing.

    I have the form somewhere at home in my files, I'll see if I can dig it up.

  6. I think I can solve this with two questions...

    1. Did the owner install a new turbo oil inlet feed line?

    2. Was the customer instructed to install a new turbo oil inlet feed line?

    This is so much of a common cause of new turbo installs, that I actually had to sign and date a form stating that I was advised of such before installing mine.

    Otherwise... if I may be so bold, take this dispute somewhere else.

  7. The only lotus pieces I bought were 12(which I think came with 11)and 13 in the diagram above, but since I wanted a particular wheel, I needed to bring it closer with the OMP spacer. Jeff at JAE new exactly what to send as soon as I mentioned it. 9 looks like it would be specific to the dish on the Lotus/Momo wheel.

    Give em a call, they had the stuff in stock when I ordered mine.


  8. If I may throw in my .02 cents...

    Replacing the condensor assembly with a proper radiator for the CC, would provide even greater cooling capabilty in the chargecooler system. The condensor was designed to change the physical state of freon, not designed to be efficient at cooling fluid. A radiator is a much more efficient and lighter way to cool fluid. Same principal applies on Intercooler core design and flow-path. Picking the right core for the job is the key.

    Sure, the combined cooling ability of both halves of the condensor assembly is better than the factory setup, but if you are going to ditch the AC anyway... why not just sell off the compressor, condensor, drier, lines etc... any install a real radiator to do the job. Lightwieght, better cooling, and a few bucks in your pocket...




  9. One last question: remember what the price on those two Lotus pieces are?

    Errrr, it's been a while. I can look tonight. Got them both from JAE, the wheel I got straight from OMP, but they really frown upon selling to the public. Just so happens their Colorado distributor sucks, so when you call them from CO, they accomodate.

    I bouht the WRC in suede...

  10. quick pic of the wheel parts...

    Please disregard the lack of hardware, I had to dissasemble most of it to get the cover off...

    The hub adapter is splined, and sits on the upper column splines. Held in place by the large nyloc. This piece changed the overall mount style from a splined wheel an nut to one that is held on by multiple nuts. The steering boss is the collapsible piece that converts the bolt pattern on the Lotus hub adapter to the universal pattern used on most racing wheels. The steering wheel could actually be just bolted directly to the steering boss, without the omp spacer in the picture. The billet spacer has the same bolt pattern on both ends. I just felt the wheel was too far away when mounted just to the boss. The spacers come in different lengths, and some are adjustable. Or, this is where you could mount certain styles of quick release mechanisms.


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