Mightymetro

I went for the Nankang NS2R tyres Andy and they feel really good. Good grip even in the wet and also great tread pattern looking on the wide rears from behind. They seem quite predictable and can break traction at will at the rear (bit of throttle pedal ) but in a controlled way . downside is they are pretty noisy and they are really really stiff on the sidewall

Get it in some citric acid

I think they are Peugeot 106

Looks great. Did you make a custom moulding for the switches under the centre heater vent ?

Anyone seen the sport 350 at the supercar rooms? Always keep my eye on things and noticed they have just dropped £10,000 of the price from £65,000 to £55,000. Big one off drop that So, do people think they were asking too much In the first place ?

I’m pretty happy with what it does, especially as it’s always raining up north

Bit more on this the EML kept pinging p0111 5/10 mins into driving so i changed the IAT sensor and then ended up with it lit permanently . I noticed the pins on the plug looked a bit corroded so I have replaced the plug with a new one and this cleared the code and it stayed off for the last 500 miles while running the engine in however, now I have started exploring more of the Rev range the EML will not light up but 5 seconds into a spirited run above 5000rpm and it comes on. Reset it and the same again, can drive around below this with no codes. As soon as I stretch her legs it pings on and still shows the code p0111 ive run the scan software and it shows min IAT at 36 degrees and max at 83 degrees. It won’t ever get above this due to the EML light coming on on reading the code using the V8 scan tool the freeze frame feature doesn’t seem to store the MAT and MAP values. My current thought is that I maybe have a earth related resistance problem and that the biter the intake temp the higher the resistance but then eventually it breaks down due to the corroded wire resistance. Does this sound at all logical

Sorted. Thanks so much for everyone’s input on this. I don’t know if it’s a bit embarrassing but after taking the back cover off and then seeing Steve’s picture and also reading a similar problem for SwindonAlan I realised that the washer was not fitted on the detent spring plug so therefore the spring was forcing the ball bearing too hard which was the cause of the stiffness. cant believe how good it feels now

I’ll take another look but I think it’s offset and won’t engage in the other orientation ill pop the back cover off again and take a peek and see how it looks

Am I right in thinking that everything to do with 5th gear is inside the rear cover? If I take the rear cover off again I guess if I push the 5HB selector the brass selector fork should just push and pull back and forth over the brass synchro? Am I right or simplifying it too much? i think maybe I’m asking if I can change anything to do with 5th gear without taking the box out as I’ve got it dry as a bone and running

Right, a bit more on this. So, ive been under the car and had Sal changing gear so I can see the order of them And how they go in and the problem is definitely back end of the gearbox and not the cockpit gearstick. I disconnected the cables and I can get all the gears fine except 5th and this moves side to side as easy as the others bt actually pushing the lever to get 5th requires much more force and the same to get it out so I’m now stuck on where to go. before the strip and reseal there were no problems with 5th gear (assuming it’s my box that came back with the car) and I never undid any of the shaft nuts, just lifted the shafts out complete. However, I have had the back selector cover off and stripped and wondered if there is a problem with how it’s built up. I had to warm the cross shaft to get it out and wonder if it is maybe distorted somehow. might bite the bullet and order a new selector assembly to eliminate that which would then point to the selector fork / gear which I think might be beyond my skill set thoughts?

They came on the car when I bought it. It’s a lotus development car so not sure if they put it in or was fitted by a previous owner. The window controls and gear surround though are not carbon fibre and I had considered carbon skinning those

Nope, vinyl all the way Do I need a hammer ?

just thinking out loud and Now I’m using the car I’m considering retrimming the dash panels and the centre panels / tunnel Which are currently Matt vinyl and wondered how much of a mission it is to remove them ? The car has the facelift dash so I’m hoping it’s not too bad?

Maybe strip it into its separate components to check condition etc and then store it accordingly in tubs/ oiled etc ?