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Hammer59

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About Hammer59

  • Rank
    L
  • Birthday 31/03/1959

More Info

  • Name
    Terry Wright
  • Car
    1989 Esprit Turbo SE
  • Location
    Wanganui, NZ

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  1. Hi Jukka. I checked out your video, but couldn't see the bars. Could you point me to where they are shown or maybe upload a pic? many thanks and loved the video.
  2. Hi Jukka. Thanks for that. Brilliant idea. I noticed on the above diagram that the struts went on the INside of the bracket. Not sure if this was an error on the diagram but I switched to this side anyway. It seems to be working well at the moment - any pressure on the bracket is now working against the bend, if this makes sense.
  3. I have the exact same issue on my SE. If I'm getting low on fuel, I just turn the lights on - it gives me another couple of gallons! I remember the same thing happened in all of my old Fiat 124 sports (about 10 over the years). Did you end up sorting this? I replaced the walnut dash fascia so have had the whole binnacle off several times, therefore plugging/unplugging connectors, so they should be fine. They certainly looked in good condition.
  4. Thanks Bibs. Yep, that's the bolt I took off but the bracket doesn't seem to want to budge. I think a little more judicious whacking with a hammer may stir some movement.
  5. Hi all. My SE has the left hand locking strut which is a great idea as long as the person shutting the tailgate knows how it works. Mine has obviously suffered from a few individuals trying to close the tailgate just by pushing it down. The result is the upper bracket bending and the strut popping off. I want to remove the bracket to have it properly straightened and maybe strengthened, but can only see one bolt that looks like it secures the bracket, but removing it doesn't seem to release the bracket. Anyone else had this problem? Is there a fix that can be done in situ? I have so
  6. Thanks for the tip re cabling. I've messaged @internets and hope he can sort me out. Re Rockauto: I've been to their site but there doesn't seem any listing for the iac valve under '89 lotus esprit. Would it be a generic iac valve that I can find elsewhere on the site? Thanks.
  7. No, I haven't. I take it I need to read using freescan or the like? I've downloaded freescan but haven't yet got the right cables. Would this be done manually, just by disconnecting the battery or using freescan? Gotta get those cables organised!
  8. Hi all. Loving my SE which I imported from UK to NZ earlier this year. It has an issue whereby it either idles too high (around 1400rpm) and the revs drop very slowly when taking my foot off the accelerator, or it idles a little too low (800rpm) but the revs drop normally. It sometimes stalls in this mode. A probably unrelated issue is to do with hot starts. Cold starts are fine, as are starts when hot and the engine has been off for less than about 4 minutes. Any longer than that and it takes about 6-8 seconds cranking to fire up again. I suspect leaking injector(s) but any input w
  9. Ahh. Gotcha. I just assumed the nuts were locking nuts for the lateral movement. Hadn't investigated their purpose fully. The sun's out so I'll vigorously strip down the door again and check that out. Certainly someone's been in and around the area before as the motor mounting bracket is a rather rude, badly welded, replacement job that tends to flex considerably when the motor's under load. Thanks for your info and patience. Terry
  10. Hi Andy. Yep, I understand how the runners are adjusted. Loosening of these nuts give lateral movement to the runners. I thought you meant an "in and out" sort of adjustment, thus taking the runners closer to, or further away from, the door skin. This could only be achieved by sticking some washers behind the runners. It's hard to imagine how the system would come to need this sort of adjustment, though, tbh. Think I'll just have to take the motor out to see just what's what. Cheers. Terry
  11. Hi Filip. Oh yes, I'd forgotten that the existing actuator in the driver's door was an old aftermarket one. I still think using a new complete system (whilst using original lotus wiring) makes sense. There's not much fettling to do to mount the new actuators. I took the SE out yesterday (only to the supermarket, of course) for the first time since fitting the remote locking system. It worked a treat. Now onto the slow windows and the bouncy speedo. Hi Andy. I hadn't thought of that. I'm assuming you mean to adjust the runners in or out by inserting spacers? I'd only consider
  12. Hi Andy, I spent just on 4 days last week installing an aftermarket remote c/l system on my '89 SE. It, also, had had an aftermarket c/l and alarm system installed at some stage. The c/l kits are ridiculously cheap from aliexpress or similar )about NZ$15 (7 pounds?). I'd recommend getting one of these and using the existing actuators if they are okay. Use the existing lotus wiring (assuming yours had central locking from factory - mine did) to save threading new wires through the door. The c/l unit can sit happily under the plastic cover in the front boot, on the passenger side, on t
  13. Hammer59

    Hammer59

  14. No, it's not that. There's a definite flat spot. I'll probably try the obvious - plugs - first, and go from there. Re: steering. Had the geometry checked and LH camber and kingpin are off spec. RH and LH caster and toe are off, too. My LH track rod is buggered, though, so that's the first thing to address before getting it aligned. I'm getting contradictory advice re the rod. One expert says that there were two diameter balls used and the old one has to be physically measured before ordering/replacing it. Two other experts say that there was only one diameter ball used in the '89
  15. Just a thought about the ecu: the car has a battery isolator fitted. The previous owner did not drive it very much. I'm assuming that the relearn will need to occur each time if I use the isolator?
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