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Everything posted by Hammer59

  1. Thanks Filip. That info is invaluable. I was ready to apply a pair of pliers which wouldn't have ended well. I'll start limbering up!
  2. Cheers Michael. Not too fussed about the A/C (this is NZ, after all). I did try to investigate the heater issue a while back but couldn't get the temperature control knob off for love nor money. Manual's description and diagrams of heating system make them look pretty complex and my body's still recovering from the gymnastics of removing the binnacle last year. I can't see that tinkering with the heater control system is going to be any less of a stern test for the ol' back, but I'll give it a go soon.
  3. Actually - on the cooling system. I'd like to replace coolant at some stage but I'm a bit worried as my heater has never worked and the heater core wouldn't be opened up. Would you foresee any issues with this scenario? A/c doesn't work either - there's no activity at all from the compressor when it's switched on. Both these are on the 'to-do' list but it may be best to address these before changing the coolant. Any observations welcomed.
  4. Thanks for the input, Barry and Dave. Sorry, my description was probably a bit vague. It was only the flexible hose that broke which should be easy to replace although the hose clip at the alloy pipe end is well and truly seized. The careful application of a dremel should take care of this. We're actually in a full lockdown here in NZ (first in over a year) so have to wait to get a replacement hose and jubilee clip. I did manage to pick up some Castrol Radicool Concentrate. As mentioned, all three reservoirs are very low. I'm assuming it will be compatible with the existing coolant (green - as is the concentrate). There's no visible coolant leak anywhere and no evidence of head gasket problems so I'm not sure why the levels are low.
  5. Was replacing my air filter and knocked off one of the hoses coming from the main cooling system header tank (not chargecooler tank). It broke off right by the connection to the tank and was probably lucky it did as the hose was very brittle and could have let go any time. It led me to check both reservoir levels plus expansion tank. These were all very low and I'll need to keep an eye on those levels. The hose that broke was the one that returns coolant to the main system (not the overflow hose to the expansion chamber) and I've never seen anything like this. There is no explanation of this hose's purpose in the manual and wondered if anyone had any information about it. It seemed odd that a closed system would be connected to just below the neck of the filler tank unless there's some sort of valve where the hose connects back into the system. Can anyone shed any light? TIA.Lotus_cooling.bmp
  6. Looks like only US models had the accumulator. Does this sound right? If so, it's a shame as a defective accumulator can definitely give hot start problems according to my googling.
  7. Was watching an American car restorer on youtube rescue an Esprit from water damage and/or been left out in the elements for years. He referred to a fuel accumulator that apparently holds fuel pressure for about 24 hrs to thwart vapour locking. Would a faulty accumulator give me my symptoms? i.e. fine on cold starts, fine if restarted within a few minutes, 5-8 seconds cranking required if restarted any time from a few minutes upward until probably around 12 hours or more. Any comments appreciated.
  8. Installed the new IAC. No difference unfortunately. Still hard to start when hot or even slightly warm. It really needs an overnight rest before it starts first pop. Which values should I be checking in freescan to hunt down this problem? Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks John. I hope to avoid having to taking the car to the big smoke (Auckland). It's about 6 hours away but I'll definitely give these guys a call. Cheers. Dunlops, directional, about 80% tread and wearing evenly from what I can see.
  10. Okay. Thanks. I ordered that one.
  11. Hi Barry. Is that link the actual part required? Just wanted to check before ordering
  12. Thanks Barry. Could you confirm the IAC is the 217-427 version to use?
  13. Thanks for the input guys. It's a bit of a mission finding competent specialists here in the backwoods of NZ. It's almost good to know that you think that some of the alignment values are way out. It gives me hope that the steering issues are fixable. Mine is the only Esprit I've ever driven so I was unsure what they are supposed to feel like. I'm confident the car has not had a shunt. Bodywork is totally original.
  14. I now have the cable and freescan's up and running. What should I be checking to identify the idle issue? I'm tempted to get a new IAC valve (assuming 217-427?) as a first port of call, but if freescan can narrow it down, that would obviously be better. I installed new RC injectors a few weeks ago but that didn't help the hot start issue.
  15. My '89 SE has always tramlined badly. On uneven roads (loads here in NZ) the car gets pulled around something shocking. Even on flat roads the car needs to be steered constantly. A few weeks after I got the car (Jan '20) I had a wheel alignment done. It didn't seem to make any difference to the tramlining. Results of caster adjustment were (before correction, Min, Target, Max, after correction): Left +00deg 23 min, +01deg 0 min, +01deg 15min, +01deg 30min, +00deg 19min. Right +00deg 01min, +01deg 00min, +01deg 15min, +01deg 30min, -00deg 01min. Hope this makes sense. Essentially, the "after correction" caster values are still outside minima and maxima. If anyone can interpret them and advise whether these values would be more likely to cause the tramlining, it would be appreciated. I had decided to just live with it but after a long trip away last weekend, it bugged me too much. Full report attached.
  16. Hi Jukka. I checked out your video, but couldn't see the bars. Could you point me to where they are shown or maybe upload a pic? many thanks and loved the video.
  17. Hi Jukka. Thanks for that. Brilliant idea. I noticed on the above diagram that the struts went on the INside of the bracket. Not sure if this was an error on the diagram but I switched to this side anyway. It seems to be working well at the moment - any pressure on the bracket is now working against the bend, if this makes sense.
  18. I have the exact same issue on my SE. If I'm getting low on fuel, I just turn the lights on - it gives me another couple of gallons! I remember the same thing happened in all of my old Fiat 124 sports (about 10 over the years). Did you end up sorting this? I replaced the walnut dash fascia so have had the whole binnacle off several times, therefore plugging/unplugging connectors, so they should be fine. They certainly looked in good condition.
  19. Thanks Bibs. Yep, that's the bolt I took off but the bracket doesn't seem to want to budge. I think a little more judicious whacking with a hammer may stir some movement.
  20. Hi all. My SE has the left hand locking strut which is a great idea as long as the person shutting the tailgate knows how it works. Mine has obviously suffered from a few individuals trying to close the tailgate just by pushing it down. The result is the upper bracket bending and the strut popping off. I want to remove the bracket to have it properly straightened and maybe strengthened, but can only see one bolt that looks like it secures the bracket, but removing it doesn't seem to release the bracket. Anyone else had this problem? Is there a fix that can be done in situ? I have some new RC injectors to fit and don't want the tailgate (which appears to make up about half the weight of the entire car) to come down on my unprotected baldy bonce!
  21. Thanks for the tip re cabling. I've messaged @internets and hope he can sort me out. Re Rockauto: I've been to their site but there doesn't seem any listing for the iac valve under '89 lotus esprit. Would it be a generic iac valve that I can find elsewhere on the site? Thanks.
  22. No, I haven't. I take it I need to read using freescan or the like? I've downloaded freescan but haven't yet got the right cables. Would this be done manually, just by disconnecting the battery or using freescan? Gotta get those cables organised!
  23. Hi all. Loving my SE which I imported from UK to NZ earlier this year. It has an issue whereby it either idles too high (around 1400rpm) and the revs drop very slowly when taking my foot off the accelerator, or it idles a little too low (800rpm) but the revs drop normally. It sometimes stalls in this mode. A probably unrelated issue is to do with hot starts. Cold starts are fine, as are starts when hot and the engine has been off for less than about 4 minutes. Any longer than that and it takes about 6-8 seconds cranking to fire up again. I suspect leaking injector(s) but any input would be appreciated.
  24. Ahh. Gotcha. I just assumed the nuts were locking nuts for the lateral movement. Hadn't investigated their purpose fully. The sun's out so I'll vigorously strip down the door again and check that out. Certainly someone's been in and around the area before as the motor mounting bracket is a rather rude, badly welded, replacement job that tends to flex considerably when the motor's under load. Thanks for your info and patience. Terry
  25. Hi Andy. Yep, I understand how the runners are adjusted. Loosening of these nuts give lateral movement to the runners. I thought you meant an "in and out" sort of adjustment, thus taking the runners closer to, or further away from, the door skin. This could only be achieved by sticking some washers behind the runners. It's hard to imagine how the system would come to need this sort of adjustment, though, tbh. Think I'll just have to take the motor out to see just what's what. Cheers. Terry
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