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Everything posted by JCERB

  1. Last night I noticed if you hold the window button up for a second (when closed) the noise changes to a deeper tone and quieter. Also if you can get your ear right up to the heater controls they make a noise I wonder is it this? The sound could travel along the floor to the back. I may try to change the relay under the dash back to the original without the "tick tock" as I changed this when I changed the rear lights to GRP ones...
  2. Noticed the same today, having not driven mine for 3 months. Hadn't actually seen this post, so seems a few of us are in the same boat now. Benson, did changing the pump work?
  3. Just on the top one it does this, the middle switches completely off and the bottom one works for permanently on. I found in the manual it is normal, but guess I'd never taken much notice due to such a terrible bulb. The new one is amazing though!
  4. After replacing the bulb for a bright LED, after having it switched off (or not noticing it being so dim!) realised it's on constantly when car is unlocked, until ignition is turned on, or car is locked. Is that normal? Cheers.
  5. Hi All. Not sure if others have completed their installs yet, but I found it all very tricky in the end to get right. I used 70mm and 85mm rubber caps from Ebay and lots of gluing of O-rings etc, making sure all watertight. Positioning is crucial with the drivers and sticking these using a 3m primer is a must, otherwise they will not stick. Also using a high temperature double sided foam tape, again from 3M is the way to go. Not yet driven car, but staggering difference in light output!
  6. That is a great idea indeed, so eliminates any damage to the original light units too. Thanks a lot for that! They will be the type of grommet I will use, and the slice can easily be sealed up to get the cable in. I will have a measure up at the weekend and post up the details, as I will be doing the same for both lights.
  7. Yiannis, you have made a valid point there regarding humidity. In this instance I imagine some RTV 157 would seal this up satisfactorily. I think the best way to do this is to drill 2x oversized holes in in close proximity in the light housing under the caps. The reason for 2x holes is that grommets can then be used with the right size hole for each cable that feeds the LED driver that should be mounted externally from the light unit. Obviously without dissecting the sealed cable ends (thus voiding warranty) you'll have to slot down to the holes to physically get the cables in, plus slice the grommets. Once in position this can again be sealed in with some 157. The grommets will protect the cables and keep as good seal as possible, especially with the help of some 157. I can't think of another way can you?
  8. Also if the bulb seems loose on your main beam, add the other o-ring from your original bulb and sit over the existing one, that stops the wobble like mine original used to do! Also on the dipped beam, it may seem loose, but more than likey you'll need to nip up the plastic holder to the reflector. You can get to one side with a pozi drive (bit awkward) but solved mine! On seconds thoughts I may remount these outside of the units like MAG did...
  9. I have just installed the same as you. I noticed the same thing with the main beam, but just closed the spade terminals up a bit and pushed them on the connector end, like they were on the original bulb. They felt secure. I am not so sure about the heat these things generate, so I'm going to slide some heat sleeving (like the dipped beam wiring) over these wires, plus heat tape the power packs with reflective version because these just sit deep inside the headlight unit, and I don't want them touching the OE wires. Currently I have the dipped beam power pack and connector within the rubber boot, but again I'm not sure how this heat will stand up as the back and fan seems pretty hot to touch. I may wrap these too.
  10. Wow, this is night and day difference and so much safer. I've gone for some too. Thanks a lot PJ very helpful to all on here. I can't believe Lotus still use this setup for cars over 100k, shocking to say the least.
  11. I have recently purchased a new set of OE wheel nuts for my Exige V6S, but the bling of the bright zinc with a blue tinge looks too much. Are there any other alternatives, because against gloss black they don't really work in my opinion. A nice matt grey to go with the AP logo and bells would look best. Has anyone looked into this before? I'm not a huge fan of black ones either. Cheers.
  12. It could possibly be the rear shoes where a high point forms often from being sat for long periods of time with little use after being washed (I believe some Mercs have this issue with similar setup). I had a similar thing more over certain bumps though. Easiest way to check this is to get the wheel off the ground and sharply rotate by hand against the diff, mine was knocking. Or it could be a strut top mounting bolt has become loose or snapped within the cradle.
  13. I have a 2015 V6S and would like to replace the bonnet badge. My new one just has plastic pillars, but I've read that some are a front clam off job, due to having nuts on the back? Cheers.
  14. Those one slip at high RPM, I was amazed what difference it made when fitted with a gatorback at my first service of owning the car, it was only on 5K at the time.
  15. Not unless you're serious about tracking the car and getting serious. The KT370 kit certainly helps with heat soak. Not sure if that kit is compatible with a 380 though?
  16. Save yourself thousands and get a V6S, superb. At the end of the day they are all great cars. I prefer the look of the early cars, regardless. But each to their own.
  17. That is an old version, you are right they were superseded with a gatorback (well were on the Exige). That is certainly inferior.
  18. Thomas, you were certainly right!! Back on Track checked it out and found it was loose. Very odd when it's never been touched as far as I'm aware, that is. So thanks very much for that
  19. Thanks to you Herald, you made my afternoon, top man! I never even knew that🤣
  20. Today I replaced the KT EX370 filter element for a new one and at full throttle hits the limiter at 6500 RPM. It had done this a while back prior to fitting new plugs, which sorted that in conjunction with a slight rough idle, but alas it's doing it again, but without the rough idle. Plugs were replaced about 100 miles ago. I am running the KT map as part of the kit, and have been for nearly 2 years now. Just wondering what it could be? No warning lights. Cheers.
  21. Cheers George. Once Back on Track are open again I'll let them have a look at it when they do the service. It think it the heat shield under the boot floor.
  22. Oh dear this sounds like a problem then. Is this common? Never heard of it before. Had your car been tracked? How do bolts just come loose holding a strut in place? Sounds awful if that is happening on these cars! Maybe they were never tight from the factory and skimped on using nylocs?
  23. Just manage to inspect through the wheel with an inspection mirror using a very bright torch, they all look to be tight. The tamper paint is still intact on all the bolts that hold the brackets in, and nothing looks to have moved. Obviously without dropping the shock, I can't see the top bolt. Hopefully it's ok, but thanks for that.
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