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Erikl - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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About Erikl

  • Birthday 16/11/1967

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  • Name
  • Car
    1994 Esprit S4
  • Modifications
    17x11 rear and 17x9 front 3 piece BBS motorsport, spherical bearings for all suspension arms, Lotus Elise racing seat, spare tire delete L-), Ian's ABS delete, Huge AP racing Evora front brakes and 2 piece rotors, Huge PNM 4 piston rear calipers with larger rotors kit. More to come!
  • Location
    Atlanta GA USA

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  1. Are you not wanting to get new ones? The usual specialty places sell them. Kinda $$ but not too bad.
  2. Tissue Layer.. Please show a pic when you get there. Not familiar with the terminology. I am very curious because I have a large hole in the floor to repair and I am excited to use the same procedure (but with a large dash of amateur thrown in!) Fortunately under the seat so not obvious. Thanks for sharing what I am sure is decades worth of experience. Fascinating.
  3. After the steel blank is removed, I am assuming a similar build up scheme on the inside? 1st layer is same size as hole, then progressively larger layers?
  4. Will you add layers on the inside as well?
  5. Yeah I am not sure I am up to the time commitment to getting it tuned my self. Maybe I will check with a few local tuners and see if they know the MS3 really well.
  6. I have read before that cars that run rich will have a fuel smell if the Cat Converter is not 100%. Of course that smell would be tail pipe. Modified RX7s are reportedly particularly bad as they run very rich to protect the apex seals and the cat converter is a huge restriction because they flow so much, so often removed. I have also read that the Esprits are kinda rich running for safety reasons. Is it possible this could be some of the smell? Also, have you confirmed you have good vacuum on the fume system? Something as simple as one of those one way valves installed back wards would render it completely inop. Also if one of those little one way valves failed it would let fumes escape when no vacuum. Oh I did not go back and read the rest of the thread, sorry if I repeated.
  7. @cammy which stand alone did you go with. Was it the SWLC prototype? You r set up is making me drool. Does it run really cool also?
  8. I will sleep better tonight knowing 44 is in Changes hands and he is taking the sunroof out! Good stuff!
  9. Other things that may have caused Lotus to change the alignment: - tire compound evolution and size changes (width and diameter/profile) also pressures. - brake power changes, I bet the ABS coming in caused most cars to have new alignment settings. - weight distribution - rubber suspension bushing durometer changes (i think all same part numbers though) - engine power changes as it relates to top speed and torque at the axle off the line - aerodynamic changes? All said, when you are talking fractions of a degree its very subtle. I dont think I could feel the difference between o degrees and 0.1 degrees camber or toe. With the rubber everything is moving around any way. I would bet that most of the really small stuff is just so that the tires will be relatively straight under heavy braking and acceleration. On the street its just not that critical, on the track you want to adjust for even tire temps. I have seen when many cars are hooked up to the alignment geo machine, everything set to its tenths of a degree, then take hold of the wheel and pull it, there is enough give in the system to change the reading a 1/10th. I like to think of it as Just a little toe in or out etc. I really think the hyper accurate laser systems that most alignment shops use are over kill, but it does make them easy for a tech to use. If you are not aligning on one of these machines I am not sure you can measure a 1/10th of a degree that close reputably.
  10. On my 94 S4 the wheel is easy to spin, with just light resistance. I wonder if your motors are in bad shape? I had problems when the little pads that the arms rest on fell apart. replaced with a similar thickness spacer and they work great now. I would think a rebuild kit from SJ would include the spacers.
  11. Yes this is a passenger side on a US car. Its a plastic half a pipe covered with carpet. It looks like you can pull the carpet up similar to the rest of the floor, but it sticks and tears the plastic. May not be the same on the RHD cars. JUst be aware up near the foot wells and if you have to start pulling especially hard, investigate further. A few minutes investigating and figuring it out would have saved me quite a bit of time fabricating a replacement that was not entirely satisfactory.
  12. Just did this, still have the insulation in bags in the garage. The rear bulk head has chip foam, vinyl and aluminum foil. The center tunnel has foam and vinyl, no foil. But you wont be messing with the center tunnel. I am no expert but when I messed around with old 911s there was lots of discussions about adding modern sound insulation. Some folks researched and there was a few folks on the forums that were in the business. The foam absorbs some sound, the vinyl helps with vibration and the foil is mostly a heat barrier as you would expect. The thing with the dynamat products is there generally not designed to cover the entire interior. But I see many install them like they are heavy. They are a modern equivalent to vinyl, designed to be used as a 6 x 6 piece in the center of a large flat area, normally I think you would put in 7 to 10 of these 6 x 6 pieces. It stops the large flat sheet from vibrating like a drum. When it comes to foam I remember that closed cell foam was best, I think it lasts longer and its denser. The denser the better for sound absorption IIRC. I re did my interior to kind of copy the X180R, I removed all the sound deadening and vinyl and just installed closed cell foam - mostly 1/2" thick under some thin carpet and Faux Suede. Pretty happy with the noise level, large weight savings. If I was going with a more stock install like you are I would attempt to re-use the original, Mine mostly stayed in tact but there was plenty that stuck to the carpet and came apart. Use a spatula type tool to carefully separate from the carpet glue. I think the original is actually an excellent design for sound deadening. If it disintegrates when you take out the carpet in some areas I think you can buy the chip foam and you can buy a stick on foil heat barrier at many parts stores. If you cant find the chip foam, here in the states the big hot rod houses (Summit racing) sell products that are a dense foam with the foil already attached. Should be very similar to OEM. I am sure its available in the UK. A couple of tips - - Take care around the latch release for rear hatch, I think the entire assembly has to come out - On the right front floor, in front of the door there is a plastic half tube that is screwed down, if you pull it; it can break, mine did. - The pros also used to say that it was really important to plug any holes, even tiny holes can trasmit a lot of sound apparently. Love your new carpet - looks amazing.
  13. I have had intermittent relays before. Any chance the relay is acting up. I had a fuel pump relay that would cut out over the occasional bump on a Porsche and I think a window relay on the Esprit that sometimes did not work. When I took the Esprit relay apart I could clearly see heat related damage. I wonder if it would be worth changing the relay just to confirm. Just swap the ECU with a known good one 🙂 yeah right, good luck with that. I think there is a place that will go through the ECU and repair but I cant think of where I saw it.
  14. Why did this work? I am trying to remember my fluid mechanics. Intuitively I think this would give a softer pedal but a shorter stroke - cuz its moving more fluid but the pressure is reduced with the larger area......But that does not really make sense. Why did a larger cylinder give a firmer pedal? Is it just the shorter stroke makes it feel firmer. thx
  15. By the way - my pricing mentioned above - turns out is from 2010. Did not realize I was looking at a very old document. Was not able to edit
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