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Everything posted by canamfan

  1. Don't do it, I agree with Pete they're an absolute pain in the butt whether you misplace the key &/or it gets worn out BTDT,
  2. Here in Ontario Canada it's always pick up trucks that like to come up close & tail gate then quickly pull up to the side & cut me off whether in my Esprit or 911sc, but in my Audi they don't pay any exclusive attention to it & leave me alone. It's really annoying & absurdly unsafe what they do. Can't explain why they do it but it's "very" consistent with them
  3. That is just stunning! I love it too!
  4. I'm gonna' follow this thread, love to see progress of you getting it back on the road "properly", but of course I love Esprit in service mode pictures
  5. I wonder if JAE, R. Dent, Dave Bean or Lotus by Claudius could/would know of a source state side
  6. SJ should have some windscreens - tinted & non-tinted
  7. Very nice. What bulb did you use in the clear part of the turn signal/indicator lamp? They almost look like extra driving lights, it’s near perfection 👌
  8. Depends if you have retained the original radiator in your Lotus (you want to protect the solder & brass) or if you've got an aluminum one . I understand that the major problem seems to be with the solder corrosion, with the older lead types being worse. First - silicate is an aluminum protector. Secondly - Today's "conventional" coolants are different (low silicate) chemistry than the old Prestone type high silicate coolants. Here is one article by Paul Weissler that states "conventional" coolant SHOULD protect copper/brass radiators better: Here's another article recommending G05 in copper radiators: Here is one article that says NOT to use OAT in copper systems: . The Zerex site (excellent info) and the Texaco/Havolene site tend to point people towards the "conventional" coolant for all pre 1995 autos. There seems to be little info about G05 use in old vehicles - be catious, IIRC, "OAT" (organic based) may not be the best for old solder. In my '84 U.S. version with A/C I've retained my original radiator (only re-cored with an extra row & I cleaned & refurbed my fans nicely & put in a ROW "hot" otter sensor - always keeping things very cool, & I'm running a slightly higher boost with a timed fan & air to air intercooler). I'm using Zerex green (old fashion) here in Canada with approx. 50/50 distilled water (no tap water for me) of course keeping the system in top shape & fresh clean/coolant religiously. My temps, are always under 90 degrees celsius, never an issue in hot summer traffic. Not interested in "waterless" coolant, overpriced IMO, I just make sure I keep up on my coolant condition. Hope this helps
  9. I would imagine since the surface is rough textured that any oil & grime will adhere to it & be difficult to keep clean more likely than if it was painted/powder coated. Suppose the factory had it smartly due to this alone, just my thoughts
  10. That is smart, definitely closer to OE & more refined, very nice 👍
  11. Not sure if this helps, but on my older 911 & 914 Porsches I had some of the exposed parts (that were in high wear areas & exposed to the elements) I not only had them yellow zinc cdmium coated, but clear (gloss) powder coated & not only did it turn out beautiful, but stayed that way for years. Mind you only on parts that were accepting of the extra layers. Other Porsche members have told ma about "Cerakote" & other ceramic coatings I have yet to look into on my current 911SC for example for the fan blade, where there is extreme wear (from it spinning all the time) but very little tolerance for "ANY" thicker" coatings.
  12. Not to stir the pot, but this past year I've re-cored my original radiator & put in (what I believed to be excellent coolant) the Febi Bilstein G12++ with distilled & de-mineralized water, which is similar to my Audi coolant that has 335,000kms (2nd water pump replacement but really didn't need it they were perfect, only did it because of timing belt) so awesome stuff, right?. Yes it is (for the correct vehicle & application lol) But........... after doing some OCD reading I think I'll be flushing the Lotus system "again" to put in original Green Zerex that should be more friendly to brass/copper radiator & lead solder material. Paranoia gets the better part of me & boy oh' boy when you do some reading, lots of reading it gets confusing but I think I'll be able to sleep with green back in the Lotus Waterless stuff is just not for me (after reading ALL the details), just throwing this out there
  13. Take a closer look at the rear section meeting the rest of the rear 1/4 panel on that '86 on Bring a trailer - it sticks out & looks unfinished & the entire bottom section (from where the strip should be & downwards, basically that belt line) almost looks as though it's all been faded in/out with body filler to wash away the protruding edge of where the black trim/strip used to be. Some are already talking about the integrity it may or may not present in future stress use. That Esprit needs to be sold to someone who will save it from further deviation & experiments that could take it further into not only financial depreciation but an emotional one too that sadly gives these beauties the undeserved reputation of cobbled kit cars.
  14. I forgot to mention - the light source for the headlight switch came from what appeared to be a "fiber optic" type of little plastic clear line that brought the light to the switch, it all appeared to be original to me because I did not find any splicing into harness & the little plastic line/optic plastic translucent line was neatly wrapped up into the existing factory loom
  15. On my '84 U.S.A. Federal version they are illuminated (from factory/original). I've struggled with this very issue on my headlight switch. I could never find an illuminated one (with similar window in green) so I ended up strategically cutting out the window from the original housing & putting into a new generic switch. It works. I would still love to see new switches made with this very option sadly I cannot find any - anywhere
  16. This is one slippery slope topic, no pun intended. I thought about Valvoline VR1, “Street” version & NOT the “Racing/not for street use” type, for the latter didn’t have the appropriate detergents to allow normal drain intervals. Used Street VR1 it in my 911sc, it was OK, using Brad Penn 20w50 partial syn. in her now, tends not to seep as much in the air cooled. I’m using Red Line 10w60 full synthetic in my ‘84 Turbo Esprit & really like it, easier starts & seems to ignore hot summer temperaments by keeping solid, steady temps with or without A/C on., plan on staying with it. Mind you, I’m sure price & availability is a factor for many, I’ve used Mobil 1 20w50 full syn. In the Esprit & think it’s not what it used to be, still very good but for the money wanted better hot temp. protection. Too much ZDDP & not enough appropriate detergents can be a bad thing too. I know the sweet spot for the 911 is around the 1200 to 1300 ppm & that’s what the Brad Penn delivers, but for the Esprit I’m still trying to figure what that # is, so in the meantime I’m doing shorter intervals for piece of mind. Trusted Charles Navarro’s experienced thoughts on the Porsche for his recommendations over many forums. Had Lucas 10w60 in Esprit before but added Red Line ZDDP supplement to bring it up to 1300+ ppm, some motocycle oils have slightly more ZDDP & lots of classic car flat tappet owners seek those out. I suppose it boils down to lots of things that an individual is just simply comfortable with be it price, availability, correct viscosity & application. Of course modern oils have had great improvements over the decades & suppose the basics like proper drain intervals shouldn’t be ignored because there’s no magical oil that stays clean without changing it. I apologize in advance for a lengthy post 😜
  17. It's the film industry, they probably jacked it up/to get that "money" shot with Roger in frame from that angle (look @ the relation to the ground), I don't recall the Lotus was sitting that high in other scenes. I used to be a prop P.A. on a lot of commercials & some feature films when I was younger, & boy, I can tell you that a lot of the stuff is mocked up, blacked out, gaffed, taped & glued to look perfect "in camera frame", apple boxes were a go to for propping things up all the time
  18. A proper headlamp switch with symbol that allows illumination
  19. It does look perfect, who knows, it's the poster child of perfect colours & condition, options etc., it would be nice to see a proper Turbo Esprit come into it's own in terms of value, they are after-all rare & great performers!
  20. It certainly has potential to bring it to its glorious original self. The steering wheel centre pad looks deformed & out of proper shape with incorrect stitching, but not too difficult to either re-do or source a quality used one. Yeah, the carbon fibre is odd looking in this cockpit with wrong hazard switch. Definitely get a proper engine air intake box & filter system (especially in your region with dust) & like others mentioned an engine bay cover too with fan ( like factory set up for cooling). Looks like a proper metal coolant pipe has been replaced with rubber hoses & some sort of mocked up plumbing & reservoir (maybe that’s why there’s a metal shroud over cam belt - to keep improper rubber hose from rubbing into the belt & pulleys). I’ve never seen hatch struts anchored so far back. Metal cover is missing to protect coil & electrics, no buggy. The trunk carpet has got to go, luckily there’s an awesome provider here on Lotuforums. Again its got potential, not too difficult to get this Esprit upto where it should be (it already looks pretty decent) & besides it’s a Turbo so it could be a fun running project. 👍Good luck, she’s already pretty but I think there’s a supermodel hiding behind these gripes 😜
  21. How do you know if it really isn't made in China to begin with? I'm always going OCD researching to make sure, however, lately it's been a struggle even with name brands that say or have print on the packaging "made in Germany, U.K. Belgium" BUT...... on closer inspection, I start to see "designed, subsidiary, parent company..etc....etc..." I try to buy quality, all the time, but I get frustrated with confusing advertising, just say'in when you receive parts or shop it requires superior investigation to ensure it truly is quality made in ....(usually) Europe part
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