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Straker

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About Straker

  • Rank
    LOT

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  • Name
    Rob
  • Car
    Eclat 521
  • Location
    Wiltshire

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  1. Still contemplating what to do with the parcel shelf.... having fixed the leak where the screws for the battery fixing rail went through the bulkhead... I’ve identified another leak. Its in the left hand foot well it appears to be coming from around the LHD blanking plate, has anyone else experienced this? Should I replace the mastic seal with tigerseal? Or glassfibre over the plate?
  2. Pete, the large bore on some SRAM jockey wheels is to allow for a large busing to provide float in to deal with changes I alignment. another option to deal with connecting with the chain could be to use a clevis fork to connect to the outside of the chain, or a clevis piece to the inside the end of the chain. the easiest way to join something to the chain would be to use a power link (tool free chain link) springfix linkages have lots of different Clevis joint sizes listed R
  3. Some SRAM deralliers have 13 T jockey wheels and there are aluminium ones available from several companies that run on cartridge bearings
  4. After my second cup of coffee of the day... I’ve had another thought.... sturmey archer chains are tiny, full sized bike chains would be a better option you could cut up a chain whip (remember to search chain whip cycle tools... other wise you might get some in unintended search results) try chain reaction cycles
  5. That sounds like a scaled version of the shifting chain from a Sturmey Archer hub
  6. Recommend SJS cycles they sell all sorts of adapters for tandems and bikes with unusual cable routing or kinetic cycles in Glasgow
  7. Have a look at the trailer for the new Steve Coogan film “Greed” he’s got a good looking yellow co-star, hopefully it gets more screen time than in the trailer.
  8. That seems a lot! A friend had an Inconel 6 cylinder manifold repaired for less
  9. Great work, Looking forward to seeing the next steps. Is the E36 box the same dimensions as the E30. just a few rambling thoughts below about the rear suspension..... Are you going to retain the rear hubs? As I assume you’ll need new top links and need a hub mounting point Spyder used to make rear top links, I’m not sure how their arrangement worked with the existing hub. ive a spyder price list from the mid 90’s but unfortunately no diagrams or images. It might be worth working out the hub path / test fitting the links before test fitting the new Diff. I’ve not seen a car with the Spyder top links but there are several threads on here where people thought there was a problem with their solution, hence to suggestions above about mocking up the links 1st. the standard rear geometry can be adjusted using shims and washers and the suspension might not be correctly aligned at the moment so it’s probably worth including some additional adjustment in your design.
  10. At some point the rear parcel shelf had been repaired to fill in some holes for some 80’s tastic speakers... The whole shelf had been ‘glassed’ over which would have been ok if the surface had been prepared 1st... so it’s delaminating .... as it appears to have been applied like 1980’s artex and it twice as thick as the shelf...it’s probably a good excuse to replace. So I could just glass over the holes or the whole shelf. is a neat repair of 2x holes better than covering up the complete shelf?
  11. sounds like a routine from ‘strictly’. miniscule progress this weekend... fitted tension spring to boot lock.... only ordered 2 and ended up with 20 (used a UK based eBay seller and the parcel came from China for £1.90)
  12. Friends have had good results from Hurley engineering in Bath
  13. Put off the difficult jobs until later
  14. Bighead fasteners to replace the spin-o-matic m6 bolts currently glassed into the rear bulkhead Every task seems to prove the theory two steps forward... one back....
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