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Everything posted by Straker

  1. Spyder also had notes on the rear spring settlings, I don’t think they’ll be of much use as your design is different
  2. Capacitor goes between pos and neg and is 1uF If it’s not for the clock maybe the radio has illumination?
  3. Found a Spyder price list from the 90’s the info on Spring rates might be useful when you get to the front suspension unfortunately there’s no info on their Diff conversions
  4. Was that recently on gumtree? Looks like a great project.
  5. Yes a PO’s, everything has been done to a similar standard.... I’m going to keep the colour the same, As it works perfectly with the black exterior I’ll need to dig out my staple gun and evostick over the next few weeks and rebuild the rear seats....
  6. Whilst wait for the weather to improve I thought I’d share what I found when I removed the rear seats.... For your entertainment I present upholstery by Vlad the Impaler... I’m sure I can do a better job after watching some you tube vids on upholstering
  7. I don’t think it’s listed under cars, so that’s probably why it’s hard to find
  8. Burlen list kits for almost everything SU made, I think they took over the rights to make SU products. Holden, etc sell kits which I assume come from Burlen
  9. It’s still on gumtree £2,000 with a spare chassis Etc
  10. Thats a very fetching colour, hopefully the trim is in good shape.
  11. Have you checked the position of the reverse gear switch? If it’s been screwed it too far it can cause gear selection problems? with all the hard to find trim there and in good condition your not that far from a very nice car
  12. Great to see YEA released from captivity.... nice wedge collection!
  13. Using spacers from 10mm thick upwards its hard to be definitive as the cogs vary in thickness depending on manufacturer I can see why the aluminium jockey wheel was so flimsy, I think it’s worth considering alternatives as there are more robust ones made by ‘Hope’ in the uk they’ve been making bike bits for almost 30yrs and are run by ex BAE systems guys.
  14. Wiggle have 13t track sprockets for £6 that would work with a bottom bracket cup.
  15. Pete, many thanks. Id forgotten about the curing temperature, I’ve got plenty of other jobs to do so I think I’ll leave this one until the spring
  16. DFP looks very nice, I particularly like the satin bumpers, I’ve a black S1 and struggled to find a set of images of an Eclat in black which hadn’t had the bumpers repainted gloss at some point. I’m returning mine to Satin + the front spoiler + possibly the Cill’s Are the cill’s on your car satin as well? I don’t suppose you have a photo that shows them? many thanks Rob
  17. I think your right, it matches the materials and workmanship of the factory.... I’ve had a quick look at the drivers side and it mirrors the left hand side. theres a hole in another bulkhead which definitely isn’t original.... that has been filled with a piece of number plate. I think I’m going to use tiger seal and then glass fibre over the panel and then deal with the engine bay side when I inevitably end up taking out the engine. current plan is to get 778R back on the road and capable of passing an MOT and then take it apart again and do the paint It’s been through var
  18. It’s where the steering column would pass through the bulkhead about 150 mm up from the front of the footwell next to the gearbox tunnel. It goes up to the join between the upper and lower body shell sections it appears to be made of the same coloured plastic sheet that the heater motor shrouds and covers inside the doors are made of. Rob
  19. Still contemplating what to do with the parcel shelf.... having fixed the leak where the screws for the battery fixing rail went through the bulkhead... I’ve identified another leak. Its in the left hand foot well it appears to be coming from around the LHD blanking plate, has anyone else experienced this? Should I replace the mastic seal with tigerseal? Or glassfibre over the plate?
  20. Pete, the large bore on some SRAM jockey wheels is to allow for a large busing to provide float in to deal with changes I alignment. another option to deal with connecting with the chain could be to use a clevis fork to connect to the outside of the chain, or a clevis piece to the inside the end of the chain. the easiest way to join something to the chain would be to use a power link (tool free chain link) springfix linkages have lots of different Clevis joint sizes listed R
  21. Some SRAM deralliers have 13 T jockey wheels and there are aluminium ones available from several companies that run on cartridge bearings
  22. After my second cup of coffee of the day... I’ve had another thought.... sturmey archer chains are tiny, full sized bike chains would be a better option you could cut up a chain whip (remember to search chain whip cycle tools... other wise you might get some in unintended search results) try chain reaction cycles
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