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Everything posted by Straker

  1. That sounds like a scaled version of the shifting chain from a Sturmey Archer hub
  2. Recommend SJS cycles they sell all sorts of adapters for tandems and bikes with unusual cable routing or kinetic cycles in Glasgow
  3. Have a look at the trailer for the new Steve Coogan film “Greed” he’s got a good looking yellow co-star, hopefully it gets more screen time than in the trailer.
  4. That seems a lot! A friend had an Inconel 6 cylinder manifold repaired for less
  5. Great work, Looking forward to seeing the next steps. Is the E36 box the same dimensions as the E30. just a few rambling thoughts below about the rear suspension..... Are you going to retain the rear hubs? As I assume you’ll need new top links and need a hub mounting point Spyder used to make rear top links, I’m not sure how their arrangement worked with the existing hub. ive a spyder price list from the mid 90’s but unfortunately no diagrams or images. It might be worth working out the hub path / test fitting the links before test fitting the new Diff. I
  6. At some point the rear parcel shelf had been repaired to fill in some holes for some 80’s tastic speakers... The whole shelf had been ‘glassed’ over which would have been ok if the surface had been prepared 1st... so it’s delaminating .... as it appears to have been applied like 1980’s artex and it twice as thick as the’s probably a good excuse to replace. So I could just glass over the holes or the whole shelf. is a neat repair of 2x holes better than covering up the complete shelf?
  7. sounds like a routine from ‘strictly’. miniscule progress this weekend... fitted tension spring to boot lock.... only ordered 2 and ended up with 20 (used a UK based eBay seller and the parcel came from China for £1.90)
  8. Friends have had good results from Hurley engineering in Bath
  9. Put off the difficult jobs until later
  10. Bighead fasteners to replace the spin-o-matic m6 bolts currently glassed into the rear bulkhead Every task seems to prove the theory two steps forward... one back....
  11. A colleague has 2 in his barn.... just for engine spares for his trials car... I’m sure he’ll be amused to find that he’s invested well
  12. Comically long bolts time again.... the hinge fixing bolts from the parcel shelf area were 60mm long.... and the heads had been glassed over to fix them ..... all that did was hide them so that they spun in place......and had to be dug out.... looks like some speakers had been installed in the shelf area back in the 80’s and someone filled in the holes as a repair. As I can’t identify what would have originally been there I’m going to glass in some m6 bighead fastener with 20mm studs. Probably a bit of overkill but I’ll be taking it all apart again at some point for a r
  13. Many thanks, I’ll go with epoxy. the boot hinge wire springs are clamped tightly to the hinge body by the clamp plate. Should there be some spacers washers between the hinge body and clamp plate so the whole spring can flex?
  14. So... the rear hinges have been installed incorrectly. Bolts have been threaded in to underside the upper fixing on the brackets and stick through to the mounting hole in the channel by the seal with a nut (only on one side) both bolts are so long that the heads foul the hinge mechanism I’m getting plenty of practice cutting down bolts + cleaning threads, thankfully I bought a bag of stainless M6 bolts. the hinge mounting point is starting to lift from the lid, what adhesive should I use?
  15. SJ sports cars list them at £39.... hopefully you didn’t suffer any more damage
  16. Meanwhile at the front.... I’ve found the leak in the bulkhead... which was the rotten battery securing channel. Thanks to the post on here “my Eclat leaks like a sieve” I’m sure I’ll be referring to that one again as the next leak is sure to becomes apparent.
  17. Should the springs on the boot hinges face inwards or outwards? I’ve not been able to find any photos of an Eclat boot showing the arrangement and the manual I have only has detail of an elite hatch. I’ve seen pictures of an excel where the springs extend inwards. I’m not convinced the hinges have been installed the correct way around as they have comically long bolts fitted... Comically long bolts are going to be a recurring theme on this thread...
  18. Many thanks, I hadn’t considered that the inside would we satin... it wouldn’t have been possible to tell when fitted to the car as it was full of animal feed pellets and mouse droppings..... i think I’ll wait until I’ve repaired / repainted/ refitted the front bumper. the bumpers will be satin, the mirrors are satin and chrome cromadorra’s so I think a satin front spoiler might work. I’m repairing parts as I remove them and storing them later for when I reassemble
  19. I’ve been relieved that my car seems to be free from the dreaded scotchlocks.... however I found this cable joint, whilst removing the damaged front spoiler.... the front spoiler was cracked in two and stuck together with no-nails and held in place with a selection of wood screws and Gutter bolts.... I’m intending to rebuild the front spoiler as it’s Grp. what colour should it be? It’s a series 2 spoiler. The car is black and the bumpers will be satin black. Should the spoiler be satin? Gloss? Or stone chip?
  20. The mirrors look excellent, who did you use?
  21. Finally moved 778R home the main challenges are... Missing wiring loom... rotten interior and the unusual litany of poorly undertaken maintenance and repairs. eg boot adjuster bolt wound in so far it has gone through shell... boot seal has 100mm missing... lock spring missing ... I’ll start posting pictures once I get past identifying what I need to do and priorities R
  22. Hi Brian just that there are different part nrs for federal and domestic filler caps, which match the different systems. br rob
  23. The fuel system parts table on the rdent site lists different fuel caps for federal and domestic markets + has part Ned for the NRV’s
  24. That looks lovely, cream interior?
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