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tomcattom

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tomcattom last won the day on December 1 2021

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About tomcattom

  • Birthday March 8

More Info

  • Name
    Tom
  • Car
    Esprit S4s #16 (first in Norfolk Mustard)
  • Modifications
    Alunox manifold, thermostatic oil sandwich plate, Axminster alloy fuel tanks, alloy cabin bling, Hayward & Scott exhaust
  • Location
    Buckinghamshire (but often found in Devon)

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  1. Having thought about it a bit more, the oil pressure transducer is nothing to do with the low pressure light on the S4s. The change to the Caerbont gauges in the S4s resulted in the oil temperature gauge being deleted and there was a separate low pressure swtich and oil pressure transducer used instead of the combined unit in the earlier S4. On the S4s the transducer only feeds the oil pressure gauage on the dashboard, so if that is working there is nothing wrong with the transducer, but even if it isn't, its got nothing to do with the low pressure light problem you're reporting. The low pressure light on the dashboard is controlled by the separate low pressure switch through the relay I previously mentioned. If that switch was at fault I would expect you to see low pressure warnings all the time, not just at idle, so the relay would still definitely be my first port of call. For reference the low pressure switch is A082N4039F if you end up needing it.
  2. Have you checked the low rpm oil pressure relay hasn't failed? That could cause the symptom you describe. Should be relay B in the rear relay station in the boot/trunk. $317 for an oil pressure transducer, what is it made of SJ Sports Cars have them listed for £55, even with US Shipping that's significantly cheaper if you end up needing one. But I'd start with the cheap/simple relay first.
  3. I used Gates' own Carbon Drive app last time I did mine.
  4. First piece of work on my winter programme has commenced today with a relatively straightforward job, fitting a clutch assist sprint. My wife is insured to drive the car and wants to drive it, but really struggles with the weight of the clutch pedal and that isn't helped by the fact we live in the middle of town so to get anywhere requires a fair amount of clutch use just to get out of town. I'm aware of the reasons why they were removed from cars, but so far, having fitted it the pedal does seem a lot easier to modulate, but I've not actually driven the car with it yet to see if the "over centre" effect of it is overly pronounced. Worst case scenario, if I don't like it I can remove it. The assist spring is actually quite nicely made, there are little needle bearings inside the spring caps at each end where it pivots on the pedal and pedal box at each end. Mine was a bit stiff to start with; it's probably been sat in a damp shed or garage for years before I bought it second hand. After a quick clean up and smear of grease they run quite freely now. This is clutch pedal before I started. As is nearly always the case with this car, you start one job and discover another to do in the process. There is evidence of hydraulic fluid at the back of the pedal box around the clutch master pushrod opening - guess I'll be adding a new master cylinder to the to-do list this winter 🙄 And here it is all fitted. Not the easiest item to battle with to install, the spring is quite strong and needs to be pretty much fully compressed to install it. A couple of strong zip ties came in really handy as makshift spring compressors 😁
  5. Not quite sure what you're referring to @Jacques. It was a brand new Sytec pump and strainer that came with it that went in and a brand new alloy tank. The only bit I reused was the metal cradle/hanger (or whatever you want to call it) that the pump sits in. Not sure what this green mesh you're referring to is, or where it might have come from. The pump is coming out either way to try another one to see if that solves the problem; so I'll give it a thorough inspection. I haven't really got anything to lose by doing it during the winter layup while other work is taking place.
  6. An S4s coming up for auction soon by the looks of it. Got a feeling this was sold/auctioned recently; the registration looks familiar. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304705784807?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pampyxo4tlg&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=k8OGcIfZSIm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  7. Is it six kits we're still after? Just looking to confirm for quotation purposes.
  8. Fitting the front bumper stud plates in the nose of the body, the one in front of the headlamp pod bucket in particular.
  9. Not sure if I've missed another thread somewhere, because I'm not sure what problem you have that requires a connector. In my case the hose was okay and went back onto the new cooler that I bought for that side. I can only assume the elbow was fitted to cooler on my car after the accident the car sustained under a previous owner in 1999, but why they felt it was needed I don't know. I did as @fjmuurling suggests and filled the oil cooler circuit as best I could from both hose unions at the sandwich plate on the engine. I couldn't get the hoses high enough to fully fill the system, so after running the engine it effectively self bled the oil coolers and I needed to put another litre of oil in the engine. In my case I had to wait for the engine to get fully up to temperature before it bled because I have an aftermarket thremostatic oil plate fitted instead of the "open" one that comes fitted from factory and had to wait for the oil to get hot enough to open the stat for oil to flow into the coolers.
  10. This is the elbow that was fitted to the bottom of my RH cooler when I got it. I don't have any good photos of it before I removed it, but you can just about make our how the hose was exiting the cooler at a 90 degree angle from where it should have been and this had necessitated the previous owner butchering a notch in the rad tray to allow the hose to reach the elbow. The hose should normally exit through that "U" shaped cut out in the undertray just to the right of where the hose is in this picture.
  11. I presume your referring to the lower hose union? There is room to fit an elbow adapter on that one for sure, mine had one fitted when I got it, for reasons I could never make out. There isn't a great deal of vertical space between the cooler union and the lower corner undertray when fitted, so you'd need to take care of the size of connector you chose to use. Here is the standard fitment on mine, without the undertrays fitted in these photos.
  12. This.... Is the Lotus Esprit V8 Not watched it myself yet, so no idea if it's the wing or wheels that have been changed on it. Pretty sure that wasn't a factory combo. Love the colour though.
  13. I haven't noticed any green dye bleed from these yet. Wonder if they changed the lining in the newer version I have to overcome this perhaps? The size 10's have been snapped up. 10.5's are still available if anyone is interested.
  14. I got them direct from the Hunziker Design website @Escape
  15. To cover the VAT and import etc I'm after £115 plus post. I reckon post will be a tenner for sufficient insurance, but can probably shop around a bit to make a saving. Size wise the supplier recommends going a half size down from what you normally wear. I have a couple of sets of Sparco driving shoes that are US 10 and these in US 9.5 fit me nicely.
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