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tomcattom

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tomcattom last won the day on May 30

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About tomcattom

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday March 8

More Info

  • Name
    Tom
  • Car
    Esprit S4s
  • Modifications
    None at the moment
  • Location
    Buckinghamshire (but often found in Devon)

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I presume that aeriel by the A-pillar is an aftermarket addition?
  2. Been a mixture of mechanical and cosmetic work this past week or so. After several trial fits the rad tray is now installed for what I hope will be the final time. The new wiring loom for the fans is all properly clipped up out of the way too. I've still got the A/C hoses to tidy up, but that won't take very long. The tow hook was removed to allow me to stick the Thermal Velocity in place. The nuts inside the frunk were so badly rusted there were no flats to engage a spanner on so I had to grind the welded bolts off from the outside. After de-rusting a friend welded in some new 8.8 grade bolts for me and then I gave it a a couple of coats of black chassis paint and its also gone back on the car. New steering rack gaiters and trackrod ends have been fitted. Then it was onto the costmetics - not something I'm a fan of doing. When I removed the front bumper to make the installation of the Thermal Velocity a little easier a previously repaired crack split open because the fibreglass repair behind it hadn't really bonded to the bumper. My re-repair My fillering skills need some practise, but given the state of the rest of the bumper it'll pass for now - its one piece again. Then onto paint, my primer didn't feather out as well as I'd hoped. I was quite pleased with how well I managed to feather the yellow into the surrounding areas for a rattle can job. Not surprisingly the yellow is a slightly different shade to what was there before but the bumper has been repainted at least once from what I could tell when I was sanding it, so it could well be the previous respray was the wrong shade. The finish has some inevitable orange peel in it but I'll wait until the bumper is back on the car before I attempt to wet sand and polish it, its all a bit flimsy off the car. It really needs a new bumper but I couldn't find an RRIM one anywhere, so this repair is only a stop gap. Just waiting for some replacement brackets to turn up before it can go back on the car. Oh and a previous painter managed to completely cover the inside of the offiside indicator reflector and bulb in yellow paint so I've got to try and clean that up before it can go back on.
  3. Thanks for the advice. To be honest I'm only going for a cover up again. There's no point going for perfection on it at the moment, the bumper is fubar and I'm just trying to fix a badly done previous crack repair that opened up again when I removed the bumper. So long as its a close approximation to yellow I doubt my amatuer job will be any worse than anything done before me. I'll share my efforts in my project thread when I've had a go. Long term the plan is to repaint the whole car because the paint on it is frankly rubbish but I want to get the oily bits sorted first before I tackle the cosmetics. This bit of bodywork is being done more out of necessity than anything, normally I'd leave this kind of things to the pros.
  4. I hope that wasn't the case because that would suggest the PDI guy, dealer and owner were all either colour blind or didn't notice it was the wrong colour My paint place is saying B05 is Norfolk Mustard so sounds like a safe bet based on my own findings and the thoughts here. To be honest given how bad the existing paint is on the car, adding another shade of yellow to the mix isn't going to be too big of a deal at this stage The whole thing really needs a repaint.
  5. On a semi related point does anyone know if Norfolk Mustard should be a basecoat with lacquer or not so I know what I need to request when I get the rattle can made up for me. Given the number of different spray jobs this car has had I'm not sure what is original paint on it and what isn't.
  6. Maybe I need to invest in a certificate of provenance and see what colour Lotus think the car is....
  7. I'm doing some remedial work to a previous owner's repair on the front bumper of my Esprit and I need to order a rattle can of paint to finish the job off, but when I look up the paint code on my VIN sticker (B20), I'm getting the colour back as Azure blue, which the car most definitely isn't Is it possible my VIN sticker has a mistake on it? There's no evidence my car has ever been any colour other than Norfolk Mustard. Is B20 definitely Azure blue and having searched online is B05 the correct code for Norfolk Mustard for my car - I seem to have found a few codes for Norfolk Mustard dotted about various sources online and I like not to add to the various other shades of yellow already on the car
  8. Is there any significance to the copper colouring on the piston crowns?
  9. Last bit of work on the chassis this evening. Having straightened the crossmember in the vertical plane earlier in the week, there were a lot of ripples and bends along its length that needed attention, so I had a go a getting it back to something resembling straight. Before After - The perfectionist in me wants to try and get it looking even better, but I'm at the stage of diminishing returns, but even so its a lot, LOT, better than it was. The final thing I did was straighen out the lip on the front edge of the cross member. Now to start putting things back on the car!
  10. What's the surcharge for correcting the handbrake grip orientation?
  11. I can't remember what size I used on mine. I'll measure the leftover offcut from what I bought when I pop out to the garage later if you want. I didn't have any hoses at all on my S4s when I bought it so I had to measure the two openings to get the right size hose and if I recall I found the air box fitting was marginally bigger than the one up by the filler flap on mine.
  12. Yeah, I had read your warning about the glue stength in your project thread @Chillidoggy, but I wasn't prepared for quite how tenacious the adhesive backing was until I'd actually used the material. I went out for a second stab at doing a DIY job on straightening the chassis this evening with a lot more success that I had the first time. Before - Its certainly taken a good wallop at some point in time. After - I've still got a little finessing to do on it, but its a damn sight better than it was before I started. As for how I did it, well ghetto it may be, but it did the job Though I have to declare I was on tenterhooks throughout the process. If you're health and safety concious you might want to look away now
  13. Does the bulb come out of that plastic housing? The bulb itself looks very much like a W2 (aka type 286) panel bulb like this: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/498/category/91
  14. Tell me about it. My back, arms and shoulders aren't on speaking terms with me after this weekend. I spent all day Saturday filling a skip with waste left from our kitchen refurb before I spent the day on the car yesterday.
  15. Brief update, work and waiting for parts deliveries have slowed things a little again recently. Over the past week I've been putting my fibre glassing skills into practise again, this time repairing the damage to the boot floor infill panel. I'll re-drill the missing hole in the repaired area when I have the boot floor back in place to line it up with. I've also removed the front bumper to inspect the damage to it and make fitting the thermal foil eaiser. The bumper and valance are competely trashed and haven't been repaired very well. Long term I'm going to replace them both, if I can find a RRIM type bumper. In the meantime I'm going to try and improve upon the previous repairs so they can be reused in the short term. This moring fitted the charge cooler rad and A/C condensor to the rad pack. I solved the earlier issue with the gap between two rads caused by the bolts Serck used to rebuild the rad frame. I replaced the bolts with some that had lower profile head which closed the gap from around 6mm to around 3mm. With the thinner gap I could use some foam tape between the rads and then some slightly wider jaw panel edge clips that was original used to hold it all together. Then I spent pretty much all of this afternoon removing the tattered remains of the foil under the frunk so I could fit some fresh stuff. Removing the remains of the adhesive and various fixings (tow hook and spare wheel bolt etc) took what seemed like and eternity, but it was worth it to ensure the new foil had a sound surface to adhere to. Fitting the foil took quite a while too, particularly in the concave sections betlow the head lamps. I made several paper templates to ensure it would all fit nicely before I wasted any of the Thermal Velocity stuff because it isn't cheap.
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