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tomcattom last won the day on December 1

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About tomcattom

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  • Name
  • Car
    Esprit S4s #16 (first in Norfolk Mustard)
  • Modifications
    Alunox manifold, thermostatic oil sandwich plate, Axminster alloy fuel tanks, alloy cabin bling
  • Location
    Buckinghamshire (but often found in Devon)

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  1. I've got the prices from the supplier now. There are a couple of notes on the quote that I need to call them about tomorrow to clarify a few things, but these are the prices as they currently stand and if there are any changes following the call I'll update tomorrow. All prices are cost price to me including VAT, but no delivery cost, that will be extra if required. The descriptions and quantities per vehicle are based on my S4s, if you're interested in a any of the parts I recommend you double check what quantities of each bracket you require for your specific model. I can't guarantee there aren't subtle differences between models. I'll include photos/diagrams of each part if anyone thinks that will be useful, although a lot of them are included earlier in this thread. The cost saving compared to Lotus retail price, for the items they still supply is quite substantial in some cases Lotus part number Item description/location Quantity per vehicle Unit price Total price per vehicle A082B5002F x6 stud plates in bottom of front bumper to secure lower valance x2 stud plates in body shell to secure corner of front bumper 8 £4.20 £33.60 A082B7321F Stud plate in bottom of front bumoer to secure lower valance 2 £8.40 £16.80 B082B4811F Nut plate fixed to bottom of front lower valance that the lower splitter and oil cooler undertrays bolt into 8 £4.20 £33.60 Unknown Diamond shaped nut plate in corner of body to for front bumper 2 £8.40 £16.80 A082B4820F Item 8 below 1 £30.00 £30.00 A082B4809F Item 6 below 1 £30.00 £30.00 A082B4810F Item 5 below 1 £28.80 £28.80 A082B4813F Item 13 below 2 £14.40 £28.80 A082U4680K Washer plate in rear wheel arch for fuel tank board bracket 2 £8.40 £16.80 If anyone would like some or all of the above items please let me know quantities in this thread so I can keep track. Lead time is about seven days from point of order.
  2. I'm expecting to hear back from the guys tomorrow with a quote 🤞 What with the new arrival and other work pressures I kept on forgetting to chase them up 😞
  3. Just you wait @Chillidoggy, everyone will be changing their seat belts soon The colour match of the yellow is about as close as you could get I've also finished reassembling the inlet plenum too. Only took a couple of hours to scrape the remains of the old gasket off first though. Special photo just for you @snowrx, bolt all torqued up correctly now the plenum support bracket is in place.
  4. After I posted that I did wonder how long it would be before someone mentioned the wooden bulkhead panel
  5. A little cosmetic update arrived in the post today. Should match the seat/piping colour of my car nicely
  6. You going for for the Morgan approach and adding a wooden frame to the Esprit?
  7. Good spot but it's been left like that intentionally for now 🙂 The inlet plenum support bracket needs to be bolted onto there too but I need to put the plenum back together before I can do that. That's the next job on the to-do list.
  8. Tailgate release cable has now been replaced. What a game that was to remove from and refit the cable to the lever in the cabin! I didnt have any reason to suspect there was a problem with it before I started, but I think it was a worthwhile preventative job. The operation of the release is transformed as a result, its much smoother than it was before but I'm not sure how much of it is down to the new cable and how much is due to the lever not being properly secured to the bulkhead beforeI started by this now reinstated nut 🙄 I've also drilled out and tapped the two lower fixing holes for the seatbelt reel covers. The parts list shows those rubbish plastic push fit clips being used but I didn't find them very effective. Hopefully the M6 bolts I've replaced them with will be more successful. Both engine mount legs have been refitted and the engine secured to its mounts again. I'm not overly happy with the quality of the paint I've used. Despite following the instructions to the letter and baking the parts in the oven the paint chipped really easily while I was installing the engine mount legs I'm not going to do anything about it now, but maybe next time they're out I'll try a different finish. Right hand side tank is now also fully secured in by its top board and the wiring all routed where it should go, as far as I can remember.
  9. @Sparkym may know something about it. Just because the MOT has expired doesn't mean it hasn't just been serviced.
  10. Sunday turned out to be a bit of a bad day in the garage. To start with I tripped exiting the conservatory while carrying the freshly painted engine mounting legs to the garage, throwing them across the driveway, chipping the new paint off them and in the process trashing one of the conservatory door blinds 😧 So after repainting them for a second time I decided to put the boards on top of the tanks to run into my next problem; they wouldn't fit.... Oh look, the tanks are back out of the car again Turns out I made a bit of a cock-up with the foam pads on top and bottom of the tanks. I measured the original sponges and they were 20mm thick, so I order the same thickness in the replacement closed cell foam. What I completely failed to consider in doing so, was how much the foam gets compressed during installation of the boards on top of the tanks. With the 20mm neoprene foam I used initially it barely compresses at all, which meant the tanks sat ~20mm too high in their wells and so I couldn't install the top board brackets back onto the bulkhead because the tanks were in the way. Throwing the engine mount legs across the driveway probably saved me some time in the long run, because had I refitted them on Sunday as planned I'd have had to take them straight back off again to get the tanks out for a second time. Silver linings and all that! After sourcing some 10mm thickness foam, removing the first batch from the tanks and refitting them I'm now back to where I was last Saturday, with the top board fitted on the passenger side to prove it does now fit 😌. Next challenge is to work out how to get the tailgate release cable off the cabin release lever so I can replace that before I refit the tank board on the driver's side. It'll be much easier to replace with the board out of the way I suspect, particularly since the ECM won't be in the way.
  11. After hoovering up all the accumulated rubbish in the tank wells, drilling out the crossover pipe grommet rivets (no easier than the first time I did it!) and replacing a couple of the sidewall securing rivets the tanks are now in. Seemed to go in much easier than they came out. Probably helped that gravity was on my side this time and also the tanks each weigh half as much as before. If I get chance tomorrow I'll be aiming to get the engine secured back onto its mounts.
  12. Is that the standard home for the PS reservoir on a V8, or is that a modification for your build?
  13. Been stealing the odd hour here and there over the past week to get the tanks assembled and ready to go into the car. First task was to get the low fuel warning light sorted. As I suspected the light surface corrosion on the float arm was causing an unreliable contact. A light rub with some 400 grit wet and dry on the arm at the point hlighted below and the stop at the bottom of the sensor has resulted in a reliable contact again. I've no idea if the fuel sensor/guage actually works, but I've meansured the fuel level sensor and it has a full swing resistance 315ohms when empty and 0ohm when full. Next task was to replace the fuel pump as a precautionary measure. Having done some reading on the forums the Sytec pump seems to be a known upgrade so I thought I'd give it a go. I wasn't able to find an ITP016 pump as used by others on here, but after some research I found the Sytec SYT340G pump seemed to be the best candidate and after consulting with Fuel Pumps Online they sent me the SPK0244 kit with all the necessary fittings. The eagle eyed may spot a notable difference in the pumps... The pump, pulsator and loom removed from the pump "cradle" alongside the new components to go in. I immediately ran into a minor issue in that the OE pump pickup is not concentric with the body, where the Sytec replacement is. A new rubber boot/foot is supplied with the pump kit, but because the OE pump isn't concentric the frame it sits in at the bottom of the cradle is also off centre. The rubber boot supplied required a little "fettling" to make it fit because the OE boot couldn't be used and I couldn't find any alternatives online that would fit out of the box. Boot before Boot after modification. I took a bit too much rubber off in one area resulting in a hole, but it won't cause any issue and can't be seen once fitted. The length of loom supplied with the pump doesn't have the connector to mount onto the bulk head connector, its just comes with two flying leads. I didn't want to cut up the original loom for the bulkhead connector in case I need to go back to an OE pump. I had real trouble finding out what the connector is, but I did eventually find a place in the US selling the correct part. Here are the two looms side by side. Pump fully reassembled in its cradle ready to go in the tank. I've also cut new set of foam pads for the top and bottom of each tank from a sheet of 20mm thick self adhesive closed cell foam, using the old pads as a template. All fitted to the underside of the tanks Fuel level sensor and pump both refitted and after a little trimming, the pads fitted too. The tanks are now all ready to go back into the car. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do that next weekend. I've also repainted the engine mounting legs and inlet plenum support brace using some VHT paint. The left size leg I've actually sourced a replacement for; the old one was suffering at the mercy of long term corrosion. I'm sure it would be fine to continue using, but given a replacement was fairly cheap I bought a new one. All prepped a ready to paint. Three coats of VHT primer and three coats of black VHT engine enamel later. They're currently in the oven baking - don't tell the missus 🤐
  14. Based on your profile saying your have an S4s, I'm presuming that is what the '95 engine is from. That being the case the head's are certainly different between the '93 and '95 engine, so you would lose some performance gains by just dropping in the '93 engine. If you're not fussy about "numbers matching" then you could use the block from you '93 engine with the '95 head because I believe the bottom ends are the same, but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along and correct me if I'm wrong with that. Without knowing why the engine is locked up and what damage was caused this all assumes that the '95 head is okay. But even if not, if its repairable I would suggest you want to save that S4s head if you can.
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