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Everything posted by tomcattom

  1. Thanks @Chillidoggy. You're right about the Caerbont quote. Materials wise it didn't cost me more than £25 to make the new dial, that was to buy the transparencies and donor gauge and I already had all the other materials here. It's the time spent on the vector artwork where the cost to a company like Caerbont doing it goes. It took me three iterations to get the artwork to a standard I was happy with and probably somewhere not far off a full working day of effort to refine it over the past week or so I would say; I'm no vector artwork pro by the way! Happy to share my vector artwork with anyone else that fancies having a go at this themselves.
  2. Final assembly of the gauge completed today. Here is the final artwork all printed ready to construct the new face. The dial is printed reverse onto some inkjet compatible OHP transparency sheets, it's printed the correct way round on some 110gsm matte photo paper and then I have a sheet of 0.5mm clear plastic to mount it all on to give the dial some rigidity. Everything taped down to align it ready for gluing. This was where I left it last night so the adhesive could properly set before trimming. Next job was to cut the face out and using a 2mm and 8mm hollow punch I borrowed from my wife's leatherwork toolkit I cut the mounting screw and needle holes. The punches didn't really do a great job but thankfully the screw heads and needle boss cover the edges so you can't see that they're not as crisp as OE. A laser cutter is definitely the way to go here if you have access to one! All the parts laid out ready for assembly. I gave the face a quick wipe down with IPA before fitting to remove all my greasy fingerprints. Face installed into the gauge. Note the marking on the edge of the case at the 10 o'clock position. Because there is no needle stop and I didn't know if the needle was in any way keyed onto the shaft, I thought it prudent to mark the resting position in case I needed it later - good job I did! It's not quite lined up properly in this shot and it took several more attempts to fit the needle after I took this photo before I was fully happy with the resting position. Inner shroud fitted. It covers up my poor cutting around the perimeter of the face! The reason I tool the gauge apart in the first place was because the glass was fogging up. It looks like the glass is some sort of laminate affair from what I can make out so I decided to try and source a new bit of glass. I could find people selling replacement glass but in most cases it would cost more than the glass itself to post it 🙄 In the end I bought a new random 52mm VDO gauge for a tenner on ebay to strip it for the glass because that was cheaper. When it turned up it transpires that not all VDO gauge glass is created equal and the new glass was of a smaller diamater than what I already had To use this new glass I was going to have to use the bezel from the donor gauge too. The new bezel is of a different design and by a stroke of luck that bezel is actually a perfect match for the CAI gauge, so win win The fully assembled gauage is resting on the old VDO gauge bezel arrangement here for comparison. Gauge all fitted. Pretty good match if I do say so myself. And illumination tested. Just need to run the car out of the garage and get it up to temperature to check the gauge still functions correctly now 🤞
  3. Adhesive for the gauge face assembly eventually arrived this evening, so I've done my first mock up. Putting the face together was a doddle. It's not bad for a first try but a few subtle tweaks are required to the artwork to get them to match even better. The red band looks a bit thin, the font needs to be a touch bolder and the scale lines are a bit short.
  4. Quick online check suggests it's not an import.
  5. It looks like it has the wrong numberplate plinth on it too which might support the theory that it's converted. Looks like an SE type rear numberplate plinth to me.
  6. You shouldn't be able to see the edge of the face once installed, so hopefully you won't see any wonky cutting on the perimeter, but I'll bare that thought in mind if that isn't the case Chris! Sorted the speedo out for a second time today. Turns out the wheel speed sensor sub-harness has been cut into and repaired at some point. So either that join is the cause of the fault or the fact that as a result of that prior repair there is about 4" of loom that isn't properly twisted, which given it's a differential signal probably isn't helping either. Not sure what the actual cause is, but the new loom appears to have fixed it. I also updated my ram air mod to use silicone hoses too If Amazon deliver the spray adhesive tomorrow I'm hoping to have a stab at putting a complete oil temperature gauge face together 🤞
  7. That pretty much covers the process I'd already read about @fjmuurling, but that is the clearest video of it I've seen so far 👍 Sadly I don't have a laster cutter, so I'll be cutting my dial faces using a good old pair of scissors, but I have raided my wife's leatherwork tool box for some hollow puches to knock out the needle and mouting holes in the face neatly 🤐
  8. I noticed when up at the petrol station last week that the oil temperature gauage I fitted was fogging up for some reason. So while the binnacle cover is off I decided to take it apart to try and work out what was up. While its apart I then got to thinking about whether I could make a new dial face myself to better match the VDO gauge to the rest of the CAI instruments in the car. Having done some research it looks like its a fairly straightforward job to do with a bit of patience, but first off I need some vector artwork to try with. I've completed my first iteration of the vector artwork to see what my interpretation of a CAI oil termperature gauge would look like based on the other dials. The original VDO dial face is just rested on the paper for comparison. The red needs a little tweaking but otherwise I'm hopeful this will be successful 🤞 Here are the existing oil pressure and water temperature gauges I modelled my take on for comparison. Next step is to source some materials to make it into a proper dial face I can actually fit into the gauge.
  9. This is repeat of information in my project thread, but I thought a separate thread would make it easier for others to find this information in future if they need it. The ABS sensors in question here are for the S4 Esprits running the Delco Moraine ABS system. Not sure if the GT3 or any of the V8 use the same sensors. Based on the parts list the car has three different sensors: Front Left = C082M6485F (The part I removed from mine was an Intellek 10456153) Front Right = C082M6484F Rear (both sides) = C082M6483F From cross referencing the various parts the sensors are all identical in terms of how the magnetic pick-up is aligned relative to the connector socket, the only difference on the three sensors appears to be how the mounting bolt position is aligned relative to the plug. That being the case a Daewoo 10456154 sensor can be used to replace any of the above sensors subject to the metal mount bracket being orientated correctly. The impedance of the Daewoo sensors matches the OE sensors at 1100 Ohms. The bolt hole on the Daewoo sensor is clocked incorrectly for any of the existing sensors on the Esprit but because the clamp is a separate metal part to the sensor - unlike the fully moulded OE part - with a bit of care you can remove the metal clamping bracket, open the jaws ever so slightly and then re-clock it to mount it in the Esprit. I've fitted one to the front left of my car and having driven it its cleared the fault I was seeing. Here is the broken OE sensor from my car alongside the Daewoo replacement The Daewoo sensor fitted to my car This is the link for the actual Daewoo 10456154 sensor I bought for mine:
  10. I can now report that the Lotus Bits power steering pipes have been put through their paces and everything is working as it should. The 2 x 8.5mm Viton O-rings I used on either end of the HP pipe were evidently okay because no leaks are apparent at the union on either end. I'd certainly have no concerns recommending these pipes to anyone 👍
  12. Just been for a first shakedown with the car this evening and got some motion potion to test the fuel level sensor. For the first time in nearly four years of ownership, this gauge is actually doing something My ABS fault appears to have been cleared successfully with the new Daewoo source wheel sensor, so that's another thing chalked off the list. Although my speedo appears to have developed its case of Tourettes again, so the new wheel speed sensor obviously didn't solve that; the last run out in it with the new sensor was a fluke clearly Gratuitous shot of it at the petrol station - will splash some water over it tomorrow morning if the weather is good and then go for a blast in it.
  13. Order for the brackets has been placed. Lead time is currently running at about a week.
  14. I got mine from SWLC (A082N4041F) @fjmuurling, but I believe SJ have the same part in stock too looking at the photos on their site. Looking at the part number stamped on the sender SWLC supplied (TB9022-000) it appears to be a Smiths part.
  15. New fuel level sensor was delivered this morning and is now fitted to the car and the low fuel warning light and gauge appears to be working reliably now 😌 According to the sellers website description the two wires in the sender harness plug would need swapping, but that wasn't the case for mine. Not sure if that means my car has already had the sender replaced once before in the past or what. Either way it works Tank board had to be removed to get to all the bolts. Not sure if that's because the Axminster tank sender hole isn't quite in the right place or the hole in the board was cut wrong. No major issue though and once that and all the rest of the panelling on that side of the engine bay is back in place the car will be ready to drive again - at last
  16. The whole family has had the lurgi of the non-Covid variety for the past week or so, so I've not really felt up to doing much on the car, but I have good news, the car does now run 😌 After speaking to the pump manufacturer they advised that running the pump reverse polarity for a short period won't do it any harm, just as a means of testing if my previous assertion that all the wiring was as it should be was correct. Once again no fuel at the outlet on the tank plate. The other thing they suggested, before we went down the RMA route was to remove the pump from the cradle and submerge is in a tub of paraffin and run it directly off a battery to test it off the car. I decided before going that far I would just try and run the pump assembled in its cradle in the bucket before completely stripping it all down again. Here is my little test assembly: Upon powering up the pump I initially got some cavitation in the paraffin around the pickup strainer and after a couple of seconds a good flow of paraffin was seen coming from the hose I'd attached to the pump outlet. I repeated it a few more times, draining the pump between each run and it seemed to work reliably. So having nothing to lose I decided to try refitting it to the car. On the first attempt at starting I got nothing and on the second just as I let go of the key from the starter position thinking it wasn't going to start it suddenly couged and spluttered into life and seems to be starting reliably every time now. I'm at a loss to explain what is different, but the only thing I did notice was when pouring the paraffin back into the container was a really tiny (couple of mm square) fragment of tissue in the paraffin. It was a brand new bucket and spotlessly clean before I started. I don't know if that was stuck in the pipework from when I was assembling it the first time (I don't remember needing to use any tissue though) or it could just as easily have fallen in while I was doing the testing because I did have some tissue on hand. Either way, its working so I'm happy. Will test it again over the next few days to build some confidence before fully reassembline that side of the engine bay. I've also noticed that the poxy low fuel warning light has stopped working again 😠
  17. PNM offer them. They have two different parts listed for the S4, so not sure which one your car needs though...
  18. Hoping for this Ideas submission to lift off @Sparky?
  19. I guess it's a possibility, but a pretty slim one I would have thought. There were bright red bungs on each end of the pump which were both definitely removed because I have them in the box here. Either way the next step is to take the pump out again and if necessary it's going to be replaced by the manufacturer. Sadly didn't have any time to work on the car this weekend, beyond draining the tanks in readiness to remove the pump.
  20. No, its a Sytec pump, which appears to have been used by others on here before. Intention was to replace the ~25 year old original pump with something new as a preventative measure while the tanks were out of the car. Looks like that has backfired
  21. So I've now gone back as far as disconnecting the fuel line where it exits the plate on top of the pump in the tank and with the pump whirring away, still no fuel emerges. I've even got desperate enough to temporarily cutoff the LH tank, remove the fuel from it and chuck it all in the RH tank in case what little fuel I had in the tank wasn't enough for the pump, but still no change in symptom. I've also checked back at my photos and checked the polarity of the wiring from when I assembled it all and measured the polarity on the connector on the loom that powers the pump and that all seems to be correct too. Looks like I'll be taking the pump out at the weekend to inspect further. Really not sure what else can be at fault now other that the new pump itself being DOA.
  22. Very much agree with this statement. Never EVER assume the part you order will be the correct part for your car, especially if it's not a genuine Lotus part. I've had at least three occurrences of this in the last month alone where parts have had to go back to suppliers because they simply aren't correct; despite what the supplier says! In my case I've not been able to modify parts I've received like this to make them work, I've either got lucky and found Lotus still stock the OE part, I've been able to repair the old part myself or I've simply had to bite the bullet and pay someone to repair/remanufacture the part for me.
  23. This applies to items 6 and 13 on the parts diagram on the previous page. That's item 13 in the picture above.
  24. Beat me to it @sailorbob. Shorted those two pins with a little jumper wire and the fuel pump whirrs merrily away in the tank but still no signs of fuel getting up to the filter 😕 Just to check I haven't completely lost my marbles I chucked the bore scope down into the RH tank and there is definitely fuel in there.
  25. Okay, so its not an electrical fault actually. Sensors all seem to check out and no fault codes reporting from any sensors. Given the only thing I've really touched is the fuelling system I turned my attention there and decided to crack off one of the fuel filter unions and not a drop came out. Evidently the 2 second prime of the pump that the ECU does when you turn the ignition on is not enough to get the motion potion up to the fuel rail for a completely dry system. Plan now is to consult the electrical diagrams and work out what relay(s) I need to "jump" temporarily to run the pump for longer then two seconds to see if that will get the fuel pumped up to where it needs to be for it to start 🤞
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