Angus553

Just about to do a static timing check and wanted to check what the reading should be at the crankshaft sprocket if the inlet and outlet sprockets are lined correctly.(without taking off the distributor cap.) As per the drawing in the manual page 17 of the Engine section. Only asking as it seems it can be between 7 and 12 deg. Then to use my new timing light to set it whilst running. TIA Angus

Yes the headlining is held in place by the side panels and the trim/trunking at the edge of the roof. Had at one point decided to use glue/velcro/double sided tape but in the end chose no to as could be a messy job and its held well in place atm. The proplex is a little flimsy but if it wasnt it wouldve been even more difficult to get it in and in place. The front half overlaps the rear half between the roof and the roll bar. The material is spray contact glued to the proplex sheet though.

Just a quick update. The headlining is in front and back and the 4 side panels. The beige material which matched the original quite closely was glued to 2 pieces of 2mm proplex sheet. Using the original screws but not the original circular fittings as missing/rusty. The use of tile edge trim and 40mm mini trunking and some new clips seems to have worked nicely(for now anyway). Hopefully sorted the exhaust with a new manifold gasket and nuts to suit. A new servo check valve has cured the intermittent ticking and when the old one was removed it had an intermiitent rattle.

Hope all goes to plan on the hospital and lotus front.

Hi Tony If your car starts and runs then it can't be for the starter or alternator and i cant think what else might use 6mm cable. If your horns dont work I would connect live and earth separately to them and see what happens?. Mine were a bit temperamental due to a bad earth (corrosion) around the connections on the horns in the recess at the front. Completely rewired them and they now work properly in low and high pitch.

My car doesnt have this and can't think what it might be for either!! or alternatively the seat belt mounting point has been drilled well out of position LOL.

I still have the original carpet fitted on the drivers side and its definitely only carpet.

I have got 2 batteries. one with the car and a new one purchased soon after buying the car, and although it says they should fit correctly they actually nearly fit correctly but enough to get the cover on anyway. In reality they are slightly to wide to fit in the gap but do wedge in as it were. The cross piece which i have cant be used with these 2 batteries unfortunately.

Hi Tony with the outer nut and bolt on the rear seats, i tried several variations after the bracket broke off. In the end went for a wing nut that could be tightened up fully without the need for a spanner or socket and grazed knuckles!! Mind you getting the bolt in the correct place is a bit tedious.

They do look as good as the original and also well done on getting the headlining fitted. My headlining is ready to go but toying with the idea of leaving the interior window out as it makes it easier to do jobs in the boot area. No smell of petrol luckily!! Back seats and rear hatch adjustments are so much easier.

Says good runner..........but most noticeably looks to have been sat for a while and the alternator and cambelt look a bit suspect to me. Many bits missing but a plethora of spare parts in and around it,to suggest it maybe complete with the interior window removed to accommodate this. Sunroof maybe leaking as well, vacuum lights may or may not be working properly and a good runner with a flat tyre lol!!

Have read somewhere that although this can be a short term fix on some engines, the 907 doesnt appreciate this being done. It doesnt like water unless its mixed 50/50 with antifreeze. If taking out the thermostat I would replace it and see if this fixes the issue or atleast test the current thermostat is working properly,eg as soldave says is it opening fully at the correct temperature.

Hi Tony yes 2 tone horns are fitted to the wooden board which is part of the crash structure. I believe originally 1 was fitted on each board but mine now are both fitted to the nearside board and are powered by 2 cables running across the top of the radiator and through the n/s light recess. The 2 horns are connected via piggy back terminals and looks like a po addition which ive improved upon as when i first had the car only 1 horn worked!!! (badly corroded terminals)

The dimensions for my bracket and motor are.....crank arm extended 20mm with the connecting rod 203mm with the bracket flush at the floor and back .Secured using the original hole from the vacuum pod. The down buffer was moved back around 10mm so if yours wasnt moved at all it could explain the difference as my arc would be longer and the distance travelled would be longer, and the position of the crank arm was changed to make all this work. Anyway the important thing is that they both work properly. Still working yeah.

If you look under "getting one running" (chat section) it will fill in some of the blanks for the excel and elite.