Gareth44

Totally agree, the inspector needs to know his onions, I should have been more clear.

Some pictures of the, finally, refurbed wheels, including new Radinox rims, new bolts and valves.

I'd recommend an independent inspection on either. The one I had got me £7k off the price IIRC. Having said that, there is a limit to what they can show up and I still ended up spending much more than that over the next two years to get it to the condition it should have been in, in the first place. The most expensive job, to date on my S4s, was the aircon. To replace the condenser is a front end off job (see elsewhere for how much fun that is) then the condenser, chargecooler rad and normal rad are all connected, plus you will likely need two oil coolers as well (the connectors and the coolers are different metals, so they fuse). Steve Williams said it is the second worst job on an Esprit, after taking the engine out! So, check the aircon.......

Not the best advert for the car but this popped up on my 'this time last year' Google photos. I actually think it looks quite good from that angle!

Mine ends 64133, so the 4xxx number makes sense as UK car but the 6 implies USA emission spec? I've got the previous owners' details, there were only a couple, and they were all UK. Same as the examples above, they all seem to have the '6' in position 13.

Interesting. My S4s is also red with the cream interior, albeit with black piping, is a 1996 and with 15k more miles. There can't be that many red S4s's about! Not that we may ever know for sure but I wonder how much these sell for. Mine was listed at £39k 18 months ago, for example, but I bought it at just over £30k.

@TdM at least you haven't got far to go to get to Steve's 🙂

That's inflation for you @Bibs!

It (the garage) was one of the non-negotiables, to house the 650bhp, unfortunately stables were too, for 2hp 😞 Wiltshire was where the prices began to get reasonable!

Thanks, although this is supposed to be the Evora appreciation thread 🙂 That is a good point @Rambo, I'd never thought of that, instead I have foam on the wall next to the Evora.

Beat me to it. Not only do they not look correct, they differ from the (correct) ones in the magazine article!

Here's mine, along with its friend.

A similar set up and comparison, albeit the other way age-wise...

Thanks, I've had a look at that thread too, although mine doesn't look like that underneath unfortunately. Did you get the front onto axle stands too?

I'm finally about to have my Oz Futuras refurbed on my 1996 S4s, which means I need to take off all four wheels at once. I have a suitable jack and 4 x suitable axle stands but my question is: how do I jack up the front and back of the car without using the standard jacking points, as these are needed for the axle stands? Alternatively, my question is: where can I put the axle stands if I jack up using the standard jacking points? Any advice gratefully received, ideally an idiot's guide, with pictures if at all possible!

Does anyone know if these are right/suitable bolts (40 each wheel at rear and 35 each wheel at the front), is the 32mm the correct length and the M7 the correct size - I think so from everything I've read but if someone can confirm, I'd be grateful. OXID eShop 6 | M7x32 bolts for modular wheels. | purchase online (felgenfuchs.de)

Oops sorry! I'm happy to believe there are 3 Daytona Blue manual S SRs 🙂

Lovely colour and good luck with the sale. I have the same car and colour but 2015. I am curious to know where you got that stat in the ad of only 3 in this colour, as my provenance pack from Lotus states there are 7 Sports Racers S's in that colour, of which mine is the last. I'm wondering if you have the split between manual and IPS, is that where the 3 comes from? I don't have the split and would be keen to know.

Not sure if the hoses were pulled through the foam blocks or not but in the end they didn't need to replace everything, just the two pipes through the sills up to the first connection at each end as, thankfully, everything came apart OK. I saw the old pipes and they cut one end off, rear I think, then pulled it through from the front. The hoses were 'motorsport hoses' but I'm not too up on what that really means, although they said that this is really how it should have been done in the first place and that the 'stainless' steel used in the original pipes would fail a trade descriptions investigation. Only evidence of the problem now is the leaked oil draining out from the sill, but a good drive should sort that out!

Just bumping this thread as the flat battery/airbag light has just happened to me. I've PM'd @Bravo73 as, as per other reports, my normal OBDII reader isn't helping.

In case any one looks at this in the future, both hard pipes in the sill replaced with soft hoses and attached as per picture.

I too now have this exact problem in this exact place, on a 2015 S SR. It is with the garage now but the preferred solution seems to be to remove everything, all through the sills, and at each end and replace with a hose instead of a pipe.

Thanks all, that is great.

Thanks for the reply. I too have an MXS 3.8 and my manual says: 'For batteries mounted inside a vehicle' 1. Connect the red clamp to the battery's positive pole 2. Connect the black clamp to the vehicle chassis remote from the fuel pipe and battery Points 3, 4 and 5 are about plugging it in and disconnecting. Below it, it describes what to do if you have a positively earthed battery, which the S4s doesn't.

Thought it best to dig up this thread rather than start a new one... I've just bought a CTEK and had assumed you connect both terminals and away you go but the instructions say that the negative clip is actually to be earthed on the car, away from the battery and the fuel. With it being a plastic car, can anyone advise where a good place to put this may be? I have a 1996 S4s. Thanks.