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  1. Today I experumebted more and realized that the issue seems to be with my Cauge and it is a wierd one. The meeter is now consistant to 0- 70kmh spot on sudenly when going over 70 it almost imidiately jumps to 80. As I made my previous mesurement I came to the conclusion that as it in the begining was real speed 80 meeter showed 100 and with real speed 50 it was showing 60 I figured that I need some 20 % more and tried to fix it with the gearbox. That of course did not work. As by tighting the spring with a 10kmh its now spot on exept for the strange jump at 70kmh. I just do not understand how that can be? It is just a spinning magnet that works against a spring. But as today its right on the money up to 70 kmh. Would be nice if it would be up to 120 thought as that's the top speef on highway.
  2. I have been experimenting with a small gearbox for the speedo as it seemd that I had a pretty big error on it. I 3D printed a smal gerabox with the best gestimate and printed it. IFirst oroblem was that the gears from theprinter are a but rough. This how ever seem to level aout by runing the gearbix so the woble on the needle disapears gradually still some left but lts see in awerk of driving. Sadly I thinkthe first gear ratio over corrected it a bit so might be that I have to still print a new one, but as I have a working concept now it is not that big if a deal. Just that I have to run the new gearbox also in.
  3. I think I'm missing the roller part23 on this picture, what material is it orginally?
  4. Talk about squiks, I have been trying to figure out how the boot lid springs should be mounted, I only have one left and it makes an horible squiq when opened. This has been as long as I have had the car but as last sommer the trunk smeld of petrol it was any way useles but now that it seems thatthe smel is disapearing and I am using the trunk it is starting to anoy me. Any sugestions what is wring. The spring and the hing make the sound when they rub agains one and other but why they do it in such a manner is a mystery to me. I did disasemble the the spring and also tried to fit it to the other side but that did not solve it. The part seem like the ones in the manual so they shoul be right.
  5. Poly bushes are durable and so far fine, they tend to squick when the lubrication wears off. I my self would not use them on a street car when driven more as the re-greasing is not fun. This obviously apply only on busches with twisting motion e.g. suspension arms everywhere else they work fine.
  6. How's the quality, have you found some changes in the chines shocks regarding to quality?
  7. Propqbly installed by one of the prvious owners in Finland. The law here requires you to have some lights as indicator that your moving so on a popup headlight car you need something like that to legaly drive with the lamps down. The parking lights wont do by the law. They are period correct so they can stay, atleast for now. I'm not that keen on the color but there is more urgent issues like you properly noticed. The Spareparts I did not get neither did I get wheels but the manuals I got.
  8. Hi I got a new set of wheels and tires under the car and here is a few pictures. Sadly one of the wheels was slightly crocked so I'm refurbisching a new one for that corner but it rund with the crocked one for now. I took 205-60-14 front and 225-60-14 back to get the appearance a bit more balanced. I'm pleased with how it looks.
  9. Nothing yet on the seat material, havent found anything close enough. So most likely I will dismantel both front seats from the stiches. After that one I will put a support fabric on the backside and sew along the velour lines to get it strong and after that one I swap the polesters from left to right so that the more weared areas get to the cebter of the car. That should by me some years. But obviously it would be easyer to just change the fabric on the weared areas if I only could find some fabric to match. The on the way out jacking pads were there but as they were on the way out they did not increase my trust in the orginal jacking points but with the planks it seemd to work fine.
  10. They are pretty usefull and they get better all the time. The important thing to concidere is what materials can be printed. The cheapest printers can only handle PLA and that in basic form is way to low in melting temperature just around 60°C luckily you can use HTPLA even on the cheap machines and thus come upto 80°C but I still would recomend machines that can handle a broad wariety of materials. I have printed a lot of parts for my cars and its often a wery good solution.
  11. I fixed the door lock yesterday and today I monted the doorcard back. Someone had made the hole for the doorcard screw oblong and 6mm with nothing to attachtoo so I printed a custom split plug for the hole that was there and now the card is back and solid. The door lock it self had the insert for the lock pulled out. So I glued it back to place with backingsoda and superglue. I also strengthened one of the mounting bolts that seemd to be on the way out.
  12. Here the finished result. The old center mufler is back with some new woll and the rest was cleaned and re-aligned to perfection. The set souds good now, just about right, not too loud but still sporty.
  13. By the way I have Protech shocs at the moment. Here a picture! Just if you have any knowledge on the qualiti and propper adjustment.
  14. Car is up and this is how it looks
  15. So are the so called jacking points smart to use or should I just put big pieces of wood under them before using or beside it? I can't most likely reach any solid metal component with the two pilar jack. I will lift the car up at 12:00 local time that is 10:00 UK time so any information is mostly usefull before that
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