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  1. Just thought I'd chime in on this thread. I have a 2017 E400 over here in the states. I have 3k miles (~5km) and have had the low under 2000 rpm transmission chatter since day one. It hasn't really changed over time, although I notice it is less pronounced when cold outside. I'm also totally unsure if it is normal or not. I've tried to research like crazy but all I can think of is possibly the pilot bearing/throw out bearing as an issue...or maybe it really is just normal.
  2. I originally thought the factory speakers were inherently terrible. All I ever got from them was shrieking highs/mids with absolutely zero bass. Honestly, the speaker on my Samsung Galaxy S10 sounded better. It turns out, the factory Alpine INE-W960 HU must not have been communicating properly with the factory amp and sub, because all of those issues were solved after installing a new head unit. Besides the sound issues, I have been really bothered by the fact that this car does not have a Temperature gauge. I live in Texas and our summers hit 100 degrees F, and my biggest concern is how hot the engine and coolant get since this is my first mid engine car. With these things in mind, I decided to install an Android head unit to address them. There are a ton out there, but I chose the Atoto A6 Pro for $259 on Amazon. Post install, I'm glad to report that the RCA jacks for the backup camera/amplifier/subwoofer plug up directly to it just like on the stock Alpine radio and all work properly. Miraculously, after installing the new head unit, the factory amp and subwoofer are working properly now! There is deep bass coming from the sub as well as balanced mids again! It sounds like a totally acceptable OEM radio, and I now have zero desire to replace any of the speakers. For whatever reason, even though the factory amp and sub were plugged in properly on the Alpine unit, they never seemed to be on or working. On top of that, this HU also gives me access to essentially any app on the Google PlayStore (Google Maps, Spotify, Netflix, Youtube, Torque, etc). I use an app called Tasker which turns on WiFi tethering on my phone automatically so that there is always internet for Spotify, Maps, Youtube, Netflix, etc while I'm in the car. Lastly, for car status monitoring, I also bought the Veepeak Mini Bluetooth OBD2 reader from Amazon for $11. With it plugged in and the Torque app running on the radio, I can get access to a real-time Coolant temp gauge, boost gauge, intake temp, etc. After a few days of spirited driving in the Texas heat using this, I can report that the coolant temperature in my Evora 400 never rose above 190 degrees. It seems that the cooling system in these cars is up to the challenge, and I no longer have to rely on a blue light, no light, or red light on the dash to tell me if the car is overheating. As for the boost/vacuum gauge, it seems to max out at ~18in/hg (~9lbs) of boost from the supercharger at WOT. Overall, this install is no more difficult than in my old Honda Civic, with the hardest part being the need to modify the plastic brackets and bezel with a dremmel for fitment. If anyone else out there is disappointed by the OEM sound system or their factory amp and sub do not seem to be working properly, try changing the head unit out first to rule it out. It might be easier than replacing the amp in the backseat.
  3. Greetings Lotus bros, I've been racking my brain for months trying to find a way to charge the battery without opening the trunk lid. Finally after months of research and planning, this is what I've come up with. Hope it helps anyone else who finds charging through the trunk lid annoying. First, the materials needed. 1. A drill bit that can cut a hole 3/4"-7/8" 2. An SAE extension cord. You only need around 3ft. 3. This flush mount SAE connector: Next, cut a 5/8" hole near the interior trunk latch. There's a crease there which I lined the hole up with. I've included a reference photo to show approx where this hole is being made. Don't worry, any cuts you make in this project are only through fiberglass and plastic. There are no wires nearby to interfere with, and no metal cutting. From the outside, measure where you'd like to place the connector and make a 3/4"-7/8" hole. Remove the license plate light to assist you in visualization and routing the cable. From here it's pretty self explanatory. Route the cable through into the boot of the trunk and connect it to your SAE battery terminal connector. I used some waterproof silicone to keep things water tight (although prob unnecessary as it was all very tight) and a 5/8" rubber grommet for the trunk interior. Tidy things up and enjoy charging the battery without having to open the trunk. From normal standing height, you can barely notice it's there. **Note**: I couldn't get one of the mounting screws on the exterior connector in. There may be metal under that one, but the other 3 were def only in fiberglass/plastic.
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