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Spanky3

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About Spanky3

  • Rank
    LO

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  • Name
    JT
  • Car
    Evora S IPS Sports Racer and Caterham Supersport
  • Location
    S. Herts

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  1. I suspect we'll be biased on this thread but I feel the same way.. With Gig Esprits it's the first and last that seem to me most sought after, I reckon it'll be the same with Evora S1s.
  2. Interesting... The Covercraft one is available from the US on ebay, £82 shipped including prepaid VAT and duty. That's an awful lot of money compared to the 7 quid Disney cardboard one but it does look smart. I'll hold off for a bit though and see if there's an better alternative.
  3. Good choice.. get yourself over to the Sports Racer thread and post a photo..
  4. Thanks all. The covercraft one looks the business but I'd be bound to get stung for import vat, handling charges and everything so it would end up costing a fortune, real shame they're not sold over here. I've already got a homemade one so those are out. The Disney Cars one has a certain appeal 🙂 . But then the covercaraft one..maybe I'll give, thanks for link to the Greggs site.
  5. Can anyone recommend a windscreen sun shade that fits an Evora and folds for storage? I'm using a homemade one right now but it doesn't fold and looks crap. I've seen a fancy folding American one but they don't seem to be available here.
  6. For completeness I thought I'd post how I fixed this. First I cut the pipe off using a multitool. Before cutting I pushed a cotton wool ball down to just below the cut. After cleaning the cut I took off the back wheel and liner, disconnected the other end of the return oil pipe and blew my airline down it to fire out the cotton wool and flush the pipe out. Top tip.. the pipes cross over in the sill so check the diagram carefully. I took the cut pipe to a hydraulics place in Watford (http://www.customhose.co.uk/) who put a solution together for me comprised of an 18mm to 1/2" BSP si
  7. Interesting. I was thinking about painting the pipe but might paint all of them. Assuming that's true it doesn't bode well for all that foam in the sill. Update so far - Lotus did reply but not with anything useful. I asked if they had a repair solution and if not what the fitting type was. I got a short reply that pretty much said get someone else to fix it and don't email us back 😞. I've left the cut-off pipe with a local hydraulic fitting place who are ordering some bits in for me, I'll call them in the morning. For info the pipe is 18mm and the fitting thread is 5/8" BSPP, no
  8. And the second Lotus article in a fortnight on some other minor motoring website. Amazing how many people have realised there's not long left to scratch their itch, so to speak. https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-features/the-best-used-lotus-cars-to-buy-in-2021/43867
  9. Thanks Kristof. Interesting that it isn't just me. My plan is the same as you've described.. an expensive twin ferule hydraulic coupler. It's reassuring to hear the same approach has been used before. It's a real shame they choose steel for a pipe that can't be replaced! @ArthouseCompany Appreciate if you have any pictures of the fix or you know the spec of the fittings or pipe. I've not heard back from Lotus so will be cutting the pipe tomorrow so I can work out what I need.
  10. I thought about that, but the same foam holds the pipes along the sill as well. Only the oil cooler pipes are steel though, the rest are alloy so hopefully won't suffer the same way. I spotted that too 😞 I'll investigate how deep the corrosion is then either treat it or more likely have to get the pipe replaced. There is a piece of rubber edging trim that's come away from the bendy plastic scuttle tray thing so I'm wondering if that's come off and allowed more water than normal to get behind the arch liner and is behind all this. I've not looked closely to see what it does when corr
  11. Hi Bibs, I think I misunderstood what you meant. By sleeving you mean pushing a smaller diameter pipe down the middle of the corroded one? That would work though it'd need to be quite a skinny pipe to fit, maybe 13mm od tops. Not sure if that would be ok with flow rates and oil pressure and could be fun to get round the two 90 degree bends! I'm thinking maybe I need to bite the bullet, chop off the rusted section, then I can take it to a hydraulic hose place and ask them what I need to join it all back together. Slightly nuclear option with no way back.. but then the pipe is scrap any
  12. It does seem like a problem waiting to happen. The pipes are galvanised steel held in foam blocks through the sill and at each end and can't be removed without cutting the sills off. these are right hand front arch but being an IPS it will have a second cooler and set of pipes in the left hand side as well. Sleeving won't work as the 30mm nut is captive on the sill pipe. Best I can come up with is to cut the sill pipe below the corrosion then use a hydraulic coupler to join a new short section of pipe then another coupler on the end so I leave a thread for the top section to connect to.
  13. Deep breath... I've taken the arch liner out and it doesn't look good. One of the fixed oil pipes that runs through the sill his holed because of corrosion where it passes through the foam rubber clamp. Presumably this is because the foam holds water so the pipes are permanently damp. I wonder if this is or will become a common issue and will affect all the pipes eventually. Photo below. Anyone know how I fix this? The service notes don't mention replacing the pipes in the sill so perhaps it isn't possible?? If not, then I'll need to cut, flare and extend the pipe (or have
  14. My Evora S has developed a reasonably significant oil leak that drips and also runs down the back of the offside mudflap. It's a 2013 car so has the single oil cooler in front of the wheel. Looking at the service notes the oil hoses behind the wheel appear to be solid metal lines not rubber so a split hose seems unlikely. Is that correct? If so then possibly the union is loose but that also seems unlikely. I'll whip the liner out at the weekend and have a look but hoping it's not an issue with the lines that run down the sills..
  15. Another IPS owner here. You'll find NA owners saying theirs is best and S owners doing the same. No different with gearboxes. For every review saying IPS is slow there's another saying the manual shift is rubbish. In reality they are all very good, just different. As Goatboy says, most IPS 'wisdom' comes from reviews of the first cars before software was sorted. For me I was pleasantly surprised by how well the IPS worked. What it loses in involvement it gains in ease and driveability and the theatre of those blips on the downshift. It also avoids the eventual 3k clutch replacement an
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