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Everything posted by neal

  1. I'd definitely be interested. Went to the IOM TT a few years back and that was fantastic: Davos, Stelvio and Turin would be in a different league! When I go to a track day I have both boots full to the brim and that's mainly tools. But a van full of spares would be a great idea. Obviously you can't expect to bring along major items but something simple like a clutch slave cylinder could go and you'd be completely screwed. I wonder when the Lambo owners do this are they all playing Matt Monroe on repeat?
  2. To protect the front bumper in the garage I'm utterly depending on the Parking Mat: I'm sure you can find something similar in the States. Very clever, has two ramps - a small one which you ease the car over then a big one which will stop the car dead even if you are still carrying some speed. Regarding the lower spoiler and stopping in front of a kerb when out and about, that's another matter since you have zero visibility of the kerb. Especially tricky with the S350 spoiler - the rubber lip is okay but the fibreglass overlay covering the top of the lip always gets it...
  3. This weels Auto Express shows what they think the new Esprit due 2012 will look like: If thats anywhere near what it'll look like then it'll look awesome.
  4. Has anyone fitted AP rotors and matching bells to match the Brembo calipers? SJ do a kit for this, 330x30mm at the front, 305x26mm at the rear. Steve said they had sold four or five kits. One was to Dermot who alas has left us but he wasn't sure who the others were. Personally I'm only interested in the fronts and I'm happy to stick with the Brembo caliper. On the track with decent racing pads, running at a high enough temperature you can easily lock the fronts at 100mph. But the big killer is the heat in the fronts (the rears run much cooler since they provide much less of the total braking force). The air gap between the face of a ventilated disc has a big impact on this. The standard discs and even the Lotus AP discs only have a gap of approx 11mm. The is fine for the road since it means the thickness of the faces is greater so they last longer. Also it means the temperature remains more constant even if you're breaking less frequently. On the road you don't want the discs and pads to cool down quickly since braking performance from cold can be significantly worse. But on the track it's a different - you're braking heavily and frequently so need to maximise the cooling. The off the shelf AP rotors within the 300-330x30mm range have an air gap typically between 14.5 and 16mm (i.e. up to 50% greater), which is why I'm thinking of going down that route. Unfortunately, Steve at SJ didn't have a clue what the air gap was in the front AP rotor in his kit, or even what the AP part number of the rotor was. Has anyone else got this kit who could find out, or has anyone fitted AP rotors for the Brembo front calipers with their own bells?
  5. I'd strongly recommend Sinclaire's (near Gallows Corner, between Harold Wood and Gidea Park): It's true they look again Elises in the main but they did know a lot about the Esprit. Have done some pretty major jobs to mine over the last few years: new engine, new gearbox, bodywork repairs, etc.
  6. They say they are for the V8 but I thought all the Renault Esprits used the same driveshaft... The original part number was A082D6037F but I guess they had another batch made as B082D6037S. However, if you look at the (rather old) stocklist: they might have overdone the quantity - 300 x B082D6037S, as well as 60 x A082D6037F. Hence instead of selling for
  7. Sweep stakes on Donington being ready in time for 2010 and the British Grand Prix disappearing for good
  8. It's unusal for the 2nd sychno to completely fail, usually it's a gradual procecss. But what can happen is when it starts to wear, the syncho ring will jam into the hub and the baulk ring isn't strong enough to pop it back out, rendering the syncho useless. This happened to me on a number of occasions. My quick and dirty fix was to try reversing with the handbrake full on. Since the reserve idler gear turns the 1st/2nd syncho hub in the opposite direction to normal the opposite force on the hub can sometimes pop the syncho ring out. This usally did the trick for me. Alternatively try reversing at speed. Of course it's only a temporary solution. Chances are it will happen again until you replace the worn syncho ring - the part is cheap but the labour on pulling and splitting the box is a lot. But as Peter says don't let it grind - that will just break the dog teeth off the 2nd gear which is a lot more expensive.
  9. Have you the later style dash with the VDO speedometer?
  10. It's highly unlikely you'd have the UN1-028 shorter third gear without the UN1-028 shorter final drive since on the UN1, the driven gear for third and the pinion gear of the final drive are part of the single piece secondary shaft. So it it would be all UN1-016 or UN1-028, but not a hybrid. Do you have a GPS with speedometer and freescan?
  11. neal

    Red V8

    That was me! Saw Bibs, Laura and Alex 'silver bullet' of 06 factory visit fame. Good to see the Esprit faithful out in force. I just wish someone caught a video of me at the end of the Cooper straight understeering onto the grass through the big 'BRAKE!' sign approaching McLaren No damage though
  12. I won't recommend wacking it with a hammer other than as a last resort. I think the safest way would be to detach the rod from the wastegate flap. The push a long Philips screwdriver through the hole on the rod and try to lever it out, using a chassis rail or something solid to pivot the screwdriver on. That way you can apply pressure progressively. Problem is I'm not sure you'll find something to lever it against in the right direction (away from the capsule). Another option is it to disconnect the hose going to the wastegate at the joint between the red hose and the rubber hose. Take a tyre inflator and fit the small air bed adaptor which usually comes with the inflator to it. Then turn on the inflator and very gently push the adaptor into the rubber hose to the wastegate. The key is not to make a complete seal but let some of the air from the inflator escape so you can regulate the pressure. Otherwise the inflator will quickly overpressurise the wastegate and blow the diaphram. I've done this before and it usually pops around 50psi. But of course it is risky!
  13. Hi Daniel, Actually it not as bad as it seems, you can get at the whole fifth gear mechanism simply by removing the gearbox end cover. You don't even have to pull the gearbox from the car. From the sounds of it your 5th gear sycnho or baulk ring is worn. I had exactly the same symtoms but even worse - it would always crunch going into 5th regardless of the revs. But I figured out a simple workaround. When shifting up into fifth, move the level to the neutral right hand plane then pull down as if trying to change to 'sixth'. Then push forward into fifth. Pulling back forces the selector ring away the sycnhro, disengaging it. So when you push forward the syncho can work to prevent the gear crunching. Althernatively when changing down to 4th, pull down into 'sixth' before moving through neutral to fourth. That has the same effect of disengaging the 5th synchro so when you next change from 4th up to 5th you can do straight to 5th without crunching. Cheers, Neal
  14. You line the inside of the driveshaft 'socket' with lots of silicone before fitting it over the output shaft. Lotus actually issued a service bulletin to do this since even with the o-ring in place they are prone to leaking. Then as normal cover the securing pins with silcone too. Hasn't been a drop from mine since fitting.
  15. I hope you have long arms and are prepared to do some serious contortions! I was just able to reach the windscreen wash nozzle from the inside when the drivers side hose popped off.
  16. Sorry, but you have to laugh! No, there definitely should there be speakers in there, though they sound terrible. Partly beside of their size but mainly because there's no air space behind the speaker. This severly restricts the movement of the diagphram causing a tinny mid range and absolutely no low range. However, they have twin-drivers with a small tweeter in the middle of the speaker which provides some ambience to complement the door speakers (though I do fade them back a bit compared with the rears). What you chould do is check if the wiring is present. If it isn't they you're out of luck unless you plan to tear the whole dashboard off. That might explain why the didn't fit the speakers if they found someone forgot to route the wiring harness through. But you'd have to cut through the leather to find out. It might look better with the grills off and the screw holes filled in.
  17. The uprated exchange box I got from Kevin at GTO last summer with the Quaiffe LSD had the worn gear already fitted even though I didn't need it since mine's a V8. So I guess it can be done easily. Regarding the O-ring groove on the output shaft, the early Quaife LSDs did have them but they turned out to cause a weakness. Kevin found the output shaft could shear through the groove. So Quaiffe stopped cutting the groove and they now are just a straight shaft.
  18. Yep, that's what it says but it's simply not the case in my experience! Have been able to get sustained boost maxing out the the 2 bar map sensor (reading from my OBDII connected laptop) in my V8-GT both before and after having the ECM flashed with the S350 code. Maybe that applies to the early V8 code which also had a lower 7000rpm redline compared to the GT and S350's 7400rpm. With the wastegate hose disconnected or a stuck actuator you do somethings get a P1412 CEL. Ironically not under WOT though, it tends to trigger on part throttle and mid rpm.
  19. Alsolutely, good for 179mph in 1.4 miles. Best I could get with stock boost was 175mph as did Snuffy in his S350. Completely maxed out the the 2bar MAP sensor so I guess I was getting around 1.2 bar boost. But I had done the maths the night before - with the freezing ambient temperature the inlet temperature at that boost would have been roughly the same as running stock boost on a warm day.
  20. What engine management are you planning to use?
  21. To check the thermostat, start the engine from cold and feel the radiator. If it starts getting warm gradually the thermostat is stuck open. What should happen is this radiator should stay cold until the thermostat reaches its opening temperature (82'C on the V8 and I'm guessing something fairly similar on the 4 pot) and then heat up quickly. The water temperature gauge measure the temperature in the engine, before the thermostat.
  22. Yes, you're right, my mistake. Though to be honest if you reaching temperatures where a 15psi cap will start allowing the coolant to boil you have bigger problems - the coolant would be at 125'C+
  23. It's absolutely bog standard, available from any Halfords or Motor Spares. Just be sure to get one with the same opening pressure - 15psi - it's marked on the cap.
  24. I know they're Pirelli P-Zero but were they Asimmetrico, Nero, Rosso...? Thanks, Neal
  25. Lotus didn't even put a LSD in the 2-eleven which is arguably their most track focused car ever. I think they said it affected the high speed stability. But even with it's levels of grip I can't imagine that coming out of a tight corner it doesn't light up its inside rear. As regards the Esprit, the Quaife is one of the best upgrades I've done - but my V8 spends most of its time on the track. However, it has to go hand in hand with a strengthened box since it works more in the lower gears and puts a greater strain on the box. Price certainly plays a part, as mentioned the Sport 300 LSD was originally
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