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catalina8

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  • Name
    Justin
  • Car
    Esprit S1, Excel SE
  • Location
    Suffolk

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  1. Won't be there after all. Woke up feeling quite ill today.
  2. Since the Armstrongs have become difficult to find, I was looking more for data so I could get some aftermarket adjustable shocks and tune to similar to what the originals were. Tuning them buy feel is not a very good idea.
  3. So I tried all of the above techniques and still no luck. I tried using sockets in a press with no luck, even with lots of wd-40 and heat. I even tried burning out the bushings, but was just able to get the center sleeve out. So i tried using a hacksaw and cutting the outer sleeve to try and pry it out, but its still stuck. Not sure what to do. I might just have to give in and buy another link.
  4. Anyone have any advice on removing a difficult rear lower link bush (the old style)?
  5. I keep hearing people complain about the Spax shocks riding too high in the front. What is this all about, needing new springs to work with the Spax shocks? Whats everyones experience with Spax shocks, cause I am having this dilemma right now? Spax or Gaz. I had Spax shocks on the front before and they seemed alright, if not a little stiff.
  6. Does anyone know or have the original compression and rebound rate data for front and rear shocks for an S1/S2 esprit? I'm more interested in the USA specs, but any data is welcome as it will be a good starting point.
  7. They make hub pullers that will make the job easy. Just put it over the wheel studs and thread on lug nuts to secure, the turn the shaft to push out the shaft. Took about 5 mins to do and not too much effort. Something like the link below, but be sure the one you get is the right size for the hub center boss and stud diameters (the link i provided is random just for the concept): http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200354081_200354081?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Auto%20Repair-_-Ball%20Joint%2C%20Bearing%20%2B%20Gear%20Repair-_-9094293&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=9094293&gclid=COLB6PemsLgCFYai4AodC2AAmw
  8. I just did this a few weeks ago. Put the hub carrier in the vice so the vice actually holds the drive shaft to keep it from rotating. Then use an impact wrench to get the nut off. Easiest way to do it. Be careful trying to use a wrench. I tried it that way at first and actually broke my vice. The impact wrench is much better way to go. Good Luck!
  9. Finally the rebuild has begun. A very exciting day indeed. A lot of work and time went into tearing the car apart, but here is where the long journey begins and the wallet starts getting lighter. But i can't wait to see the end result. For now, the first step towards a new looking Esprit, is with the backbone...the chassis. The chassis was quite greasy from some dripping coolant and the usual leaking valve cover. Luckily the chassis is galvanized and even 30 years later, there is no rust on the frame. [attachment=22256:DSCN1769.JPG] I ended up using about a gallon of Purple Power (fully concentrated) to get it clean. I sprayed the frame twice a day for an entire week. Then i took a power washer to it, and it came out like this: [attachment=22259:Lotus Restoration 002.jpg][attachment=22260:Lotus Restoration 004.jpg][attachment=22257:Lotus Restoration 005.jpg] Had a local place powdercoat it. They were very friendly and did it at a reasonable price. Turnaround was very quick too. They cleaned and brush blasted the chassis clean. I didn't want them to completely sandblast the chassis and remove all of the galvanization. Having the galvanization and powdercoat layer should provide permanent rust protection. I couldn't get a picture of the finish, but there are some shiny spots in the powdercoating where the galvanization was thick underneath. This is not very noticable from more than a few inches away. Don't get me wrong though, it looks amazing still. I'm fine with the shiny spots anyways, because i'm getting the added protection of the galvanization and you won't be able to see the spots once the body is back on. The final result really did turn out nice. This frame should definitely last the rest of the life of the car now. [attachment=22263:Lotus Restoration 001.jpg][attachment=22264:Lotus Restoration 002.jpg][attachment=22262:Lotus Restoration 003.jpg] Sorry for the picture quality, i didn't get a chance to get pictures before it went in the garage. There isn't much space to take good pictures and the lighting is bad. As you can tell the garage is quite full of lotus bits and tools, so i need to make more space before continuing the build. Be back with another update in a few months, once work resumes on the car.
  10. Down to the last chapter in the Esprit disassembly. The focus this time is the suspension. I couldn't manage to track down a spring compressor that works on the esprit springs. The springs so tightly wound, i found that none of the compressors seem to work. Made due using some ratchet straps. All the bushings need to be replaced though. The springs and control arms look in good shape though. [attachment=22252:DSCN1729.JPG][attachment=22253:DSCN1759.JPG] These worn out bushings need to be replaced: [attachment=22254:DSCN1763.JPG] And it's finally all removed [attachment=22255:DSCN1767.JPG] Now, it's all ready to start rebuilding. The plan is to powder coat the chassis, rebuild the suspension, then work on the brakes, wheels, cooling system, etc. to get a rolling chassis together (minus engine and trans). Then rebuild the engine and trans. Next is the finishing the rolling chassis. The the body work and interior. It's a long way to go though. But more to come soon.
  11. I'm getting down to the last few things now. Just a few things left to remove. Its seems like it all happened quick on this blog, but it was actually a few months worth of work to get to this point. Sorry if these write ups are short, but i'm trying to cover a lot of work in just a few entries. Well, it's time to get the cooling fans and pipes off, remove the brake lines and engine mounts. Cooling components and pipes to remove: [attachment=22245:DSCN1732.JPG][attachment=22246:DSCN1746.JPG] Brake lines to be removed: [attachment=22247:DSCN1750.JPG][attachment=22248:DSCN1755.JPG][attachment=22249:DSCN1760.JPG] Engine mounts to remove, one had already been replaced and the other was damaged: [attachment=22251:DSCN1737.JPG][attachment=22250:DSCN1738.JPG]
  12. It's finally time to get the engine out of here. With an engine hoist, it's a one man job. First you have to remove the driveshafts [attachment=22236:DSCN1705.JPG] then a few bolts [attachment=22238:DSCN1707.JPG][attachment=22237:DSCN1708.JPG] and the gearbox is out: [attachment=22239:DSCN1710.JPG] Next...the engine [attachment=22241:DSCN1712.JPG][attachment=22240:DSCN1715.JPG] There's still a mess left over [attachment=22243:DSCN1726.JPG] A quick inspection shows a bad clutch: [attachment=22244:DSCN1723.JPG] More work soon to come, but this seems like real progress now.
  13. I can't wait to remove the engine and trans, but there is still work to be done first. There's a few things to disconnect like the... gear linkage: [attachment=22234:DSCN1697.JPG] coolant hoses: [attachment=22235:DSCN1692.JPG]
  14. Finally, the day came to separate the body and the chassis. I was a little unprepared, but with endless rain looming in the forecast and time off work, i did the best i could to hurry. Not the prefered method, but it works: [attachment=22229:DSCN1576.JPG] A couple pictures of the engine, trans., and chassis. [attachment=22230:DSCN1577.JPG] [attachment=22231:DSCN1579.JPG] [attachment=22232:DSCN1580.JPG] [attachment=22233:DSCN1583.JPG] [attachment=22228:DSCN1590.JPG]
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