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  1. Alvan closed up shop - apparently someone made him a great offer on his premesis, and as business wasn't booming, he closed up. This is what I googled - looks like he's doing chiptuning now:
  2. tatty flaking aluminum detracting from the engine bay. What's the correct way to renovate to make it look shiny shiny new?
  3. I got a garmin i3 dirt cheap. couldn't live without it. they are a bit more fiddly than the tomtoms but work very well. Also loaded it with speed traps. What I really like is that it has a very small footprint without obstructing forward vision. I put it right next to the rear-view mirror. These are real safety devices - and marriage savers. trying to read a map while driving is a thing of the past. Check out as well good forums give a sense of what works and what doesn't
  4. sorry - NOS = new old stock. original spare parts which have never been used IMHO - in my humble opinion ciao!
  5. I would check carefully the chassis before replacing it. If it can be repaired that is probably better. But 2500GBP if it is NOS is a good price. I would take new over a used chassis if possible because a used chassis is coming from a broken car, so it might have hidden problems anyway. not worth the hassle IMHO. You have to be careful as well that you get the right chassis as I believe they were always changing. If you are looking for other used suppliers, you could try Douglass Valley Breakers as they have some broken esprits. But I would recommend you follow Stevens advice at SJ - he's very helpful and knowledgeable and offers fair prices.
  6. TSD


    yeah, saw the tirerack comments, but was a little suspicous about the provenance of the feedback. but, if you like them on yr esprit thats a good sign. I might go for them.
  7. TSD


    sorry if this has been done to death, but a quick look round and it seems that the Lotus Recommended tyres according to LEW are Dunlop Sport SP01 and Pirelli P6000 which are out of production for 195/60/VR15 and/or 225/60/VR15. My preference is to have the same pattern & compound for both fronts and backs but the only one I could find in those sizes V-rated is Kumho. (which btw is under 300EUR for 4 tyres). Anybody know what Lotus are recommending? And anyone running on Kumhos? I have newish Dunlop SP01s on the front but the backs are not quality tyres and needs replacing.
  8. personally I don't think those unisyn carb balancers are very reliable. And I'm not sure they are useful at all for checking that the throttle cables are also properly synchronised. Here's a clever idea, I would think this would work on a dual carbed car just as well:
  9. Wayne, My understanding is that lift-off weight shift can be what triggers the rear to come out, but once it is out, my feeling is it's out. Keeping the power on, especially if it's boosting will surely cause it to continue to spin. Taking the power all the way off quickly could maybe cause the lift-off oversteer to worsen the spin, but by then, the car is probably so unsettled and the slip angles so messed up it wouldn't make much difference. Isn't it best to let off the power gently while steering into the skid? Anyway, Paul, don't overthink it too much. You won't have an accurate enough memory or any telemetry data. there was probably a number of contributing factors, ie it was an accident!
  10. Glad to hear you are ok. Cars are just things. Can always be replaced. I had a similar off a few years ago in my esprit. cost more than 10K to put it right. snapped on a wet corner when the turbo kicked in, steering was extremely heavy and there was no controlling it. OK, my fault for driving too fast, but the Esprit is a beast when the tail steps out. In addition to the turbo kick, once the turbo is boosted, you can't really modulate the power as quickly or finely as you could on a NA engine. Yours looks a write-off for sure. But those esprits are pretty tough, not sure you would have been better off in a Ferrari :-)
  11. search the archives! pretty easy to do. check that there is not too much play in the hinges in which case you should consider replacing the bushes, otherwise it could be just sagged because of PO leaning on door or even just gravity.
  12. I've got a logitech force feedback steering wheel with 900degree turning radius. Expensivish but I highly recommend it. Together with GT4, it feels quite realistic for a game. the load on the steering wheel and transfer of weight under braking is really impressive. The biggest drawback is that there are virtually no risks or consequences to crashing into other cars or off the track which would of course in the real world is what makes racing human. When weather is terrible or I don't have the time to spare, a few laps cheers me up.
  13. undo the screws holding on the plastic dash mask. wrangle the switch panel out of the dash, careful not to scratch the dash covering. Probably not a bad idea to use masking tape or something to protect the leather. wriggle the switch plug out of the back of the switch. If you need to remove the switch, there are little tabs top & bottom which need to be depressed slightly with a screwdriver or something and then the switch will come out. You can R&R the switch if it's not badly damaged with a dremel and small wire brush attachment. assembly is reverse.
  14. clearly german - clock that silver paintwork. Autounion type D? last car to win a grand prix before WWII started? If you are thinking of bidding, check it doesn't have a VW engine in the back :-) seriously, I think Audi has made a repro which they may be using in promotion with the new Audi R8 -
  15. I can't think why the steering could cause vibration, even if there is a little play. Steering UJ wear is very uneven since they don't really turn much. when they go, they tend to get stiff in places not loose I think. Could be flatspots on tyres (when I balanced my fronts I still had vibration. when I replaced them with new tyres, presto vibration gone.) but if you must replace u/js, they are pretty easy to get out. two ways of doing it, one is to put front of car on axle stands or lift, remove drivers side front wheel, remove nuts holding the the steering rack, remove retaining bolts holding the u/j and pull the bottom u/j off out of the wheel well. then remove retaining bolt on the upper u/j inside the footwell and push it off, take it up out of the footwell. the other way as described in the workshop manual is to put front of car on axle stands or lift, remove drivers side front wheel, remove the retaining nuts&bolts on the lower u/j, loosen the bracket holding the steering column and pulling the column up an inch or two, then do the lower u/j from the rack and pull it off and out of the wheel well. either method you shouldn't put too much force on the upper column or it could collapse which would be a b*tch replacing is basically the opposite, but be carefull to make sure the u/j are at 30degree angle and the steering is at a 30degree angle (I think turned outwards), but well described in the w/s manual, or the steering feel will be badly effected. I did mine a while ago and it didn't really remove the play in the steering, as apparently I have some play in the upper column which isn't bad enough to warrant replacement yet. SJ does R/R U/Js but probably any drivetrain shop could do the same. ps - hope you are not claustraphobic - undoing the bolts of the U/J in the footwell is the only exercise in my life where I've literally had a panic attack - sweating upside down, arms trapped engages the lizard brain
  16. OT - is it true the Elise is going to get the rubber bumper treatment a la Federal Esprit S2 as of next year?
  17. My indicators work fine, but my hazards don't work at all. I've R&R the switch as it was broken, so I'm reasonably confident that it's not the switch. I'm guessing it could possibly be the relay? Any suggestions? Also, anybody know an alternative relay so I don't have to treck to a lotus dealership? Must be common to most cars?
  18. If you drive through a garage door that's closing, it stops. if you walk into an elevator when the doors are closing, it opens... You can't convince me that Bollards are supposed to jump out of the road underneath a car hard enough to cause that kind of damage. I can see the funny side of watching the vids, but if it had been me, i'd sue for damages.
  19. Past 2004 VW Sharan 2002 Lotus Elise S2 2000 BMW 320D 1986 BMW 325i 1967 Triumph GT6 1986 Pontiac Fiero 1973 Triumph GT6 1970 Triumph GT6 1969 Triumph Spitfire 1979 Fiat Spyder 1974 Spitfire 1500 Present 1986 Lotus Turbo Esprit HCI 2005 BMW X3 2001 MINI One 1986 BMW R65 Future ???
  20. They couldn't see the signs because they were behind the bus. And there is some much road furniture around most places, if you are on a new road it can be overwhelming. You don't exactly expect expect to be attacked by the road you are driving over, especially if the vehicle in front passes through ok at best pretty embarrassing, at worst unecessary injuries and expensive damage. The kids in the back of the mini van looked pretty shaken up.
  21. Bonjour. I used to have Elise S2. fantastic cars. The nice thing about elise is that it's affordable to track. You can drive it pretty hard without much wear and tear. It may not be the fastest on the straights, but it's unbeatable in the corners. Esprit is a much faster, heavier car. Expensive to track. Expensive to fix. But very special as well.
  22. Yes, Steve at SJ is great and as far as I know, the only Esprit supplier with a comprehensive online price list. His garage is a bit of a shambles, but he's a fount of knowledge and very dependable. He's an ex-lotus mechanic and probably knows as much as there is to know about fixing them. But for unless price savings you get on a set of carpets is worthwhile, I'd go with the factory carpets from your Lotus dealer. I don't know how it works in the states, but here in Belgium, as the Lotus dealer gets a weekly shipment of parts for servicing cars, shipment of parts is free, and I get an excuse to go look at the shiney new toys. anyway, welcome to the forum
  23. great picture. I read somewhere that it was the tire shop was owned by the guy's brother-in-law. Thats got to hurt! Lucky it didn't fall on someone...
  24. the guy was going 44 in a 30. not 33 or 35 or even 37. stopping distance would have gone up from 110 ft to about 160 ft in the best of conditions. could have been at that speed the 7 year old didn't even see the car approaching around a bend. i don't know the road. in any case expecting a 7 year old to be more responsible than the adult behind the wheel is too much. I live on a rat run one-way street and I could never allow my kids to ride their bikes in my street because there is always some assh*le trying to make up time coming round a blind corner at speed. The car is being killed by it's own success. Roads are too crowded and people to stressed and competitive going about their daily lives. I speed too from time to time; I try to exercise ''good'' judgement and read the environment I'm in before I put down the loud peddle. I suppose we all think we are ''good'' drivers. sad story
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