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  1. I'm a bit overdue an update so I'll just list either the new parts fitted or refurbished below, what I can remember anyway Fuel tanks - Both fitted with new hoses/x-over pipe, new fuel level sender and pump Rear suspension - All fitted awaiting final tightening once the car is loaded up with all the parts. New upper (adjustable) links, new shocks and springs, new lower links, new wheel bearings, all new bushes (inc. radius arms), all new bolts/fixings. New handbrake cables fitted Doors - trim removed cleaned and treated, window motors removed and refurbished Wipers - Seized motor removed and repaired, washers cleaned out. The washer motor was fine though, the only motor on the car that was. Typical it's the cheapest and easiest to fix! Head lamps - Motors refurbished, lamps removed to clean up, replaced adjuster pins/clips and bulbs Radiator - Refurbed and fitted in new frame with spal fans Chassis pipes - All chassis pipes/grommets replaced with new inc. main rad and oil cooler (shift cables tested but not replaced) Brake pipes - All replaced with copper Dash binnicle - Tested and boost gauge replaced with manual stack one (luckily I already had one spare, bonus) Wiring - Finshed removing old alarm, this has been the worst and most time comsuming job on the car so far - by MILES Next on list is mount the new charge cooler rad and start changing the wiring for the new ECU Cheers, Dunc.
  2. That's interesting, were they completely unlubricated from the factory then? If so I'll just clean them up and leave them at that. Escape, thanks for the tip Cheers, Dunc.
  3. I had a search for this but couldn't find it so apologies if I've missed it elsewhere. As per the title, what is recommended for the window runners? Thanks, Dunc.
  4. Hi, I'm hoping someone can help confirm something for me. For oil cooler lines: I know the engine side (Sandwich plate) is 5/8" BSP, is the oil cooler side also 5/8" BSP? I'm planning on using a different cooler but the standard (new) hoses. Thanks, Dunc.
  5. Hope everyone's keeping OK The engine and gearbox have now been completed (massive thanks to Dave) but collecting it is out of the question for now. In the mean time I've started work on the rear suspension, I've got the RH off the car and I've got a couple of studs to drill out there. The wheel bearing feels a bit rough so I'll replace them at the same time as - adjustable top links, new springs and dampers and fresh bushes.
  6. Bit of an update: 1. Removed the rads this morning (was actually easier than I expected) - Rads wil be replaced with custom alloy ones. 2. Fitted the LH tank (RH was already done) Next job is to remove and replace the chassis pipes, also the fuel level sender terminals are melted so will replace this as well. Cheers, Dunc.
  7. Hi Andy, No real update I'm afraid Engine rebuild has started though and shouldn't be too far away from being complete (I'm not doing it myself). I'll update as soon as I have some meaningful information! Dunc.
  8. Just read my original post and I can update a bit from that. Hand brake cables replaced, gear stick with cables removed and inspected, interior stripped down further. RH tank fitted with new fuel pump and seal. I used an array of thin rubber squares I cut out from a sheet of rubber stuck to the bottom of the tank space. The thinking behind it was to have enough blocks to support the tank fully but leave loads of air space for ventilation and drainage if required. I used new rubber grommets for where the tank cross over pipes pass through the bodywork and with stainless steel rings. I've also discovered a small hairline crack in the chassis where the gear stick mechanism bolts in. I believe this is fairly common and I'll be looking to do a dye penchant crack test and drill the ends then weld. Although unfortunately the body is still on so it might be tricky for access. The aircon is removed with the exception of one pipe (front) and I'll be putting it on the corner weight scales to see what the damage is. I also made a little alloy blanking plate and fitted it where the air con pipes passed into the cabin. I've almost got the rad pack off but got side tracked! Once that's off I'll be removing and replacing all the pipes that pass through the chassis. Any tips on this are welcome Cheers, Dunc.
  9. Hi Richard, Apologies for not being here to respond sooner but there's not been much to add to the thread from me. I assume you've allocated these elsewhere by now? A very generous offer, what a gent you are! Cheers, Dunc.
  10. Looking for recommendations of suppliers for buying these parts in bulk to aid with my restoration. Nuts/bolts/washers/jubilee clips - Good quality parts Thanks in advance, Dunc.
  11. The angle grinder has been in common use, the smokey smelly grp isn't too nice though. Cheers for the assurance, glad I'm using a tried and tested method! Dunc.
  12. Thanks for all the responses! Barry, thanks for the hints I'll consider that for the future but not for now - I'm super keen to at least get it on the road first :) Escape, adjustable cam sprockets are getting fitted and the air-con is getting removed as you said (these SE's aren't overly light!). I was going to ponder over the rad situation for the charge cooler once I had them out of the car but thanks for the pointers I wasn't aware of the sport 300 setup. Jacques, thanks for all the advice. On the oil coolers I was planning to replace oil lines through the chassis while the engine was out just to be safe, so that probably means the oil coolers as well as they were already leaking (and the lines are stuck solid). Oh and better seats would be nice in future, I agree a good seat makes all the difference in a car! Chillidoggy, thanks and I'll take a look - I've got lots to learn about these things but I've made a decent start at least. Small update is I made a start on the rad pack and all the bolts and screws have misbehaved so far, fun times ahead. Thanks, Dunc.
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