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StonerUK

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Posts posted by StonerUK

  1. Any events or socials being planned at all, just curious?

    Saw some Mini’s heading off to Beaulieu this morning and looks organisers and venues are starting to work things out.

     

     

  2. Has anyone moved there bonnet east or west to balance out the shut line/panel gap to the wings. Mine isn’t great and can get your pinky down one side and just about a match stick the other. Looking at the general arrangement drawings all I have to do is loosen six bolts and slide it in the slotted hinge holes with the bolts in place?

    Seems easy, but concerned it will drop and damage the paint or not go as expected. Ideally, it could do with a very slight rotation to be perfect as well. Should I leave it alone, not broke don’t fiddle or worth a go?

    Any luck by others doing something similar?
     

    Happy to hear, thanx.

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  3. Can anyone give advice on the best paint to use inside the luggage space and underside of the lid to an S3 84?

    I’d like to brush re-coat under the brake servo where it’s been stripped off and a few generally worn areas.
    It’s OK but could be better and don’t want have completely re-coat (or spray) the whole space.

    I think I’m  looking for a polyurethane product easily bought from motor factor or yacht chandler and also  thought of Hammerite, but believe Hammerite is a zinc oxide based product, but I'm not certain this is the same for their satin finish paint.

    What do people use that works, any ideas?

    Thank you 🙏 

    Adam

     

     

  4.  Does anyone know what the extra long studded cover bolt is for in the photo? The one with which screws into the top cover like the other bolts which for some reason I don’t understand, has a taller head and stud poking up in to space. The one diagonally opposite the filler level plug.

    I hope it’s not important, cause thinking the previous owner lost a normal stud and used something he had laying around, I trimmed it down sufferIng an extreme attack of OSD for things being ‘neat and tidy’.

    If it serves no purpose then I can relax, but thought it might be a gauge or something used during an overhaul?

    Shoot me please!

     

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  5. Nope I literally just tried tease it out without removing all the gubbins. Appreciate much better to remove the boxes and relays first and now you mention it seems obvious. 
     

    I believe my lucks changing cause in the mean time thought I’d try both door lamps back in place again and see if perhaps by magic they switched off when the door closed like there supposed to (original reason for wanting to fiddle behind the box ) and you ain’t gonna believe me they both bloody worked !!

    Seems my drivers door plunger switch was it a bit wanky after all, intermittent and worked when on the bench for testing. So sweat it for two weeks, curse for another two and loose some blood in between and it should all work out fine later. Ill now remove the wanky switch and fix like a should have in the first place. 
     

    I’ll put the glove box refurb on the back burner for another day.

    cheers guys. 

    • Like 2
  6. Door card removed.

    Wiring in place to the scheme.

    Window winder motor mechanism looked good and functioning properly, a bonus “look see”.

    So decided to replace delay unit with new after all just in case which did not cure, bummer!

    Car has a retro iPod spliced into the Auxiliary unit alongside delay unit.

    My next thing to check, perhaps shorting the system some how?

    This is a pain!

  7. Right, time to update on my ‘story’ come adventure so far!

    Believe it or not I managed to lay in the drivers footwell with the seat in place and crank my neck around the steering column to see how the door/courtesy lamp plunger switch looked, nothing out of place (apart from spinal column).  

    Carefully taped string to front of plunger and unscrewed collar from body. Pushed switch through dash hole and lowered from underneath and removed from string (used  to guide back into position after testing). Connected the switch to simple lamp circuit, to determine any need to dismantle and repair as above. Pleased to say it  passed this function test, sorry to say is not the switches fault?

    Reading the wiring diagram sht12, informs as mentioned earlier, is connected to the courtesy lamp via the delay unit. . I’m no electrical alchemist but looks like the switch is wired as an earth return back to the relay unit, ( door open maintains circuit to the relay and interior lamp, door closed circuit broken and door lamp goes out) I think?

    what I don’t get is with the switch and relay unit removed (individually not the same time), the door and courtesy lamps still stay on ( courtesy lamp in down position on the rocker)?

    Next episode will be titled, ‘door card off’ to checked what’s underneath and how the lamps earth is being supplied to stay on all the time?

    Ahh, great days.

     

     

     

  8. If I put a bulb in the holder and close the door it just stays on, no matter how long I wait.

    If I put the ceiling light on in farthest up and farthest down “on” position and then push in the door jam the button and wait, both stay on. So I don’t drain the battery I have to leave ceiling light in the middle “off” position and doors bulbs out.

    Ive no idea what my ceiling lamp positions are supposed to be and if correct and seems the door jam button isn’t shutting the current off, ,so  perhaps this is the fault?

    thanks for suggestion, I’ll keep tinkering till it’s fixed.

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