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dclare - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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dclare last won the day on November 6 2018

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About dclare

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  • Name
  • Car
    Esprit v8, 911 991 C4S, Range Rover, 1972 Fiat 500 Abarth Rep, 612 Scaglietti OTO, E92 M3 v8, and a couple of GTMs somewhere.....
  • Modifications
    Chargecooled, Hybrid Turbos, Alcon/AP Brakes, OZ Novas, Centre Exhaust
  • Location
    Ascot, Berks

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  1. Or ditch the Lotus AP set up and fit the JAE system - supposedly much more progressive and easier to modulate.... I dont have personal experience, but all the reports on it are positive. This was from Joe when I enquired: "AP has two solid hubs for pretty instantaneous engagement. When brand new, they drive rather well. Once they have bedded in and have some miles on them, they tend to engage as you’re describing – abruptly and with limited variability at the pedal. Ours has one solid hub, and one sprung hub. This helps to dampen the rotational engagement to the clutch shaft, m
  2. I have to say I keep thinking about doing this coversion for no other reason than I think the standard gearbox and clutch really detract from the driving pleasure of the Esprit. The rest of the car is really tactile and has lovely control weights but the clutch and gearchange are just not a pleasure to use (in my opinion of course!) and results in a series of lunges rather than a flow when you're pressing on. There are now many higher powered versions of the Boxster/Cayman and even the 718S 4 cylinder versions put out over 300 ft lbf as standard so will support a higher load quite easilly
  3. Back to the original problem. Ive been thinking about this too as my area is a nightmare with speed bumps. This is the kit I've been looking at as it fits at the bottom of the coil-over rather than the top like most air cup systems...
  4. Mine is R472AAH and was used as one of the motorshow cars when the update was announced. Painted in Nautilus Blue. According to the letter that came with the CoP it was signed off from production on 24th Sept '97 and then passed to engineering for homologation use (hopefully not crash testing!!). Currently mine is on axle stands while Im fitting Lotac Bilsteins (I didnt like my Nitrons and sold them to ChrisW for his 350) and a bigger brake master cylinder to go with the bigger brakes. I just wish Lotus would deliver the rear shocks so I can get the job finished....they have been on
  5. Hormann also do a side sliding door that disappears down the side (inside) of the garage. With that you wouldnt have to reduce the opening size becasue they go up to pretty big sizes...
  6. Unfortunately I dont know.....I sold the project when I moved to a new place and didnt have the space to finish it......
  7. Thanks Ruud. Despite all my previous comments I do feel that your most likely cause is a failed primary pump. Your engine only runs on the pressure created while the secondary pump runs briefly when you turn the ignition on. As soon as that that pressure is used to run the engine for a few seconds the engine dies because it isn't getting its main (primary pump) fuel supply...... Although the primary pump runs when its out of the tank that's no guarantee it can generate any pressure. This fuel pressure test kit has all you need (although it is £60) -
  8. Interesting couple of purchases. If you need any help with the K3 I know a couple of people that have had them in the past that I could put you in touch with (including track-day modded ones) Ive had a couple of GTMs - a standard Spyder 1.8 that morphed into something called Big Lairy Spyder (Google it!) and a frankenstein Spyder that ended up with a KV6 engine and MGTF rear subframe that we built for trackdays (the yellow one)
  9. Hi, Im pretty sure they do, otherwise how would the system retain pressure after the pump is turned off? There is no separate check valve on an Esprit v8. To test if this is the problem you can buy a stand-alone in-line valve for a few pounds from ebay ( - good quality but there are much cheaper ones if you want to risk it) and make up a temporary feed hose with a length of fuel hose, jubilee clips and a few cheap fittings. Make up the pipe to the fuel rail (make sure the check valve is the right way round to stop the fuel flowing back to the pumps)
  10. Most pumps have a non-return valve (check valve) in them which can fail. So the pump runs and generates pressure which quickly bleeds away when it stops. They may be able to hold a very low pressure, so enough to start the engine but not enough for it to run (or it may run badly). When you connect the pressure guage you wlll see the system pressurise when you turn on the ignition, but the pressure will quickly drop when it switches off. (the same symptom as a leaking in-tank hose). The only solution is to change the pump.
  11. Wow....what mood does that equate to?? Sounds like weekend high heels😂
  12. I have the PNM LED headlights fitted and they are ('scuse the pun) night and day better than the original halogen lights. While the 4 LED pattern may not be to everyone's taste the improvement in performance is well worth it....
  13. Hi All, Simple one this - has anyone found wiper blades that dont judder horribly....mine is driving me mad! Thanks....
  14. Thanks Ian... Im pretty sure the issue is a result of the much larger piston volume in the calipers than standard - therefore a long pedal is purely a result of having to pump a greater volume of fluid. The brakes have been on the car for a long time (fitted by a previous owner) and work awesomely but it feels a little over-braked at low speed and hard to modulate, so I'd prefer a slightly heavier and shorter pedal. An electric servo may cure the pedal effort problem, but not the travel. At the moment the ABS works fine and I'd like to keep it that way! I'll dig out the pa
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