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dclare last won the day on November 6 2018

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About dclare

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  • Name
  • Car
    Esprit v8, 911 991 C4S, Range Rover, 1972 Fiat 500 Abarth Rep, 612 Scaglietti OTO, E92 M3 v8, and a couple of GTMs somewhere.....
  • Modifications
    Chargecooled, Hybrid Turbos, Alcon/AP Brakes, OZ Novas, Centre Exhaust
  • Location
    Ascot, Berks

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  1. Unfortunately I dont know.....I sold the project when I moved to a new place and didnt have the space to finish it......
  2. Thanks Ruud. Despite all my previous comments I do feel that your most likely cause is a failed primary pump. Your engine only runs on the pressure created while the secondary pump runs briefly when you turn the ignition on. As soon as that that pressure is used to run the engine for a few seconds the engine dies because it isn't getting its main (primary pump) fuel supply...... Although the primary pump runs when its out of the tank that's no guarantee it can generate any pressure. This fuel pressure test kit has all you need (although it is £60) -
  3. Interesting couple of purchases. If you need any help with the K3 I know a couple of people that have had them in the past that I could put you in touch with (including track-day modded ones) Ive had a couple of GTMs - a standard Spyder 1.8 that morphed into something called Big Lairy Spyder (Google it!) and a frankenstein Spyder that ended up with a KV6 engine and MGTF rear subframe that we built for trackdays (the yellow one)
  4. Hi, Im pretty sure they do, otherwise how would the system retain pressure after the pump is turned off? There is no separate check valve on an Esprit v8. To test if this is the problem you can buy a stand-alone in-line valve for a few pounds from ebay ( - good quality but there are much cheaper ones if you want to risk it) and make up a temporary feed hose with a length of fuel hose, jubilee clips and a few cheap fittings. Make up the pipe to the fuel rail (make sure the check valve is the right way round to stop the fuel flowing back to the pumps)
  5. Most pumps have a non-return valve (check valve) in them which can fail. So the pump runs and generates pressure which quickly bleeds away when it stops. They may be able to hold a very low pressure, so enough to start the engine but not enough for it to run (or it may run badly). When you connect the pressure guage you wlll see the system pressurise when you turn on the ignition, but the pressure will quickly drop when it switches off. (the same symptom as a leaking in-tank hose). The only solution is to change the pump.
  6. Wow....what mood does that equate to?? Sounds like weekend high heels
  7. I have the PNM LED headlights fitted and they are ('scuse the pun) night and day better than the original halogen lights. While the 4 LED pattern may not be to everyone's taste the improvement in performance is well worth it....
  8. Hi All, Simple one this - has anyone found wiper blades that dont judder horribly....mine is driving me mad! Thanks....
  9. Thanks Ian... Im pretty sure the issue is a result of the much larger piston volume in the calipers than standard - therefore a long pedal is purely a result of having to pump a greater volume of fluid. The brakes have been on the car for a long time (fitted by a previous owner) and work awesomely but it feels a little over-braked at low speed and hard to modulate, so I'd prefer a slightly heavier and shorter pedal. An electric servo may cure the pedal effort problem, but not the travel. At the moment the ABS works fine and I'd like to keep it that way! I'll dig out the pa
  10. I think the standard brake master cylinder is 23.8mm diameter - does anyone know if the S350 and later '98-on Esprits have a bigger bore? The reason for the question is that my v8 has Alcon 6 pot front calipers and AP 4 pot rears, and while the stopping power and stamina are absolutely awesome the pedal travel is pretty long and very light. Ideally I'd like to fit a larger bore master cylinder to reduce the pedal travel and add more weight to the action. An alternative may be to change to pedal ratio, but I'd prefer a bolt on solution if possible......
  11. Totally agree with all the comments here - maintenance by workshops that do not know these cars is a lottery, not just as far as suspension goes but pretty much every aspect of the car mechanically. However, in terms of GEO setting they are even more specialised because so many adjustments require shims rather than tweaking an eccentric bolt or a few turns on an Dave, who do you recommend to do the job correctly? Northampton Motorsport? Centre Gravity? Any recommendations greatly received!
  12. Hi Mike, Are the ali pipes from the compressor outlets single piece or do they have a join (hard to see properly from the pics)? Mine have a silicone pipe joiner which as you've seen is too close to the exhaust manifolds and the whole thing needs refabricating with a single hard pipe from the compressor to the chargecooler. Dave.
  13. Call for help please.... A bit of a long shot but does anyone have the dimensions of the under-dash heater box for a later model (revised dashboard) v8? Im thinking about junking the entire original mash up and replacing it with a modern integrated unit with electronic controls but before I rip my dashboard apart I need to know if the unit I have in mind will fit. TIA...
  14. Wow...this one is unique - the ad says it has electric front and rear windows!!!
  15. If anyone knows of a good Porsche 964 C2 or C4, or 993 Im interested (only coupe's not targa or cab)...... Prices still seem to be very solid and the air cooled Porsches are selling, although there are a couple of modified cars that have been for sale for a long time at too high a price. I do believe the higher end of the market (£100k +) is very soft with E-Types going down significantly, but the mid-range which is not really investor territory, more the high end enthusiast market is pretty stable.....once an enthusiast sees a car they love man maths tends to take over (if they are
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