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dclare

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Everything posted by dclare

  1. Yep, in layman's terms a smaller master cylinder means the pressure from your foot is concentrated into a smaller area, therefore higher pressure at the piston. A larger cylinder means more foot pressure is required to create the same pressure at the piston. Also if the pedal travels the same distance with the larger cylinder it will move more fluid. So, the summary of both effects is more force required at the pedal and less movement to push the same amount of fluid.
  2. I'd try the old tyres to see if they hold air first - its best to buy new tyres when you need them rather than buy new then have it sitting on them for another year (not sure what your timescales are). How far have you got to move it? If its going on a trailer then just leave it on the old flat tyres and winch it up. The old tyres will be binned anyway. You can make a rope sling for the driveshafts, just let them hang loose in a loop and they will rotate as you move the car, but not tangle on anything or drag on the ground. If you simply want to move it around the workshop you c
  3. This may not be relevant to others with big brake conversions because its all dependent on the caliper piston sizes but I thought I’d document in case anyone has a similar issue. My car is fitted with 6 pot Alcon fronts calipers and 4 pot AP rear calipers which provide fantastic stopping power and resilience, but the pedal travel with the standard master cylinder was very long and overly light, so the only answers to giving a shorter and heavier pedal were to either change the pedal ratio or fit a larger master cylinder. I didn’t fancy messing about with the pedal box so I started the se
  4. You're very welcome to come over any time, just PM me when youre thinking of coming. If you are looking for something more compliant I think the Monroe's are hard to beat. Ive got some spares if you're interested in them.
  5. After a brief flirtation with Nitrons on my v8 (which I found a little to harsh for my kind of use) I decided to change over to the Lotac Bilsteins, however, I didn’t see the point of the Eibach springs as they are the same rate as the standard springs and my original springs are in good condition, so I only ordered the shocks. Fitting the standard springs to the rear Bilsteins needs an adaptor LOTAC05449, so be sure to order this if you are retaining the standard springs. See pic for the order the bushes and washers need to be assembled in – note that the two rubber bushes/isolators and
  6. Or ditch the Lotus AP set up and fit the JAE system - supposedly much more progressive and easier to modulate.... I dont have personal experience, but all the reports on it are positive. This was from Joe when I enquired: "AP has two solid hubs for pretty instantaneous engagement. When brand new, they drive rather well. Once they have bedded in and have some miles on them, they tend to engage as you’re describing – abruptly and with limited variability at the pedal. Ours has one solid hub, and one sprung hub. This helps to dampen the rotational engagement to the clutch shaft, m
  7. I have to say I keep thinking about doing this coversion for no other reason than I think the standard gearbox and clutch really detract from the driving pleasure of the Esprit. The rest of the car is really tactile and has lovely control weights but the clutch and gearchange are just not a pleasure to use (in my opinion of course!) and results in a series of lunges rather than a flow when you're pressing on. There are now many higher powered versions of the Boxster/Cayman and even the 718S 4 cylinder versions put out over 300 ft lbf as standard so will support a higher load quite easilly
  8. Back to the original problem. Ive been thinking about this too as my area is a nightmare with speed bumps. This is the kit I've been looking at as it fits at the bottom of the coil-over rather than the top like most air cup systems... https://www.kwsuspensions.net/products/hydraulic_lift_system
  9. Mine is R472AAH and was used as one of the motorshow cars when the update was announced. Painted in Nautilus Blue. According to the letter that came with the CoP it was signed off from production on 24th Sept '97 and then passed to engineering for homologation use (hopefully not crash testing!!). Currently mine is on axle stands while Im fitting Lotac Bilsteins (I didnt like my Nitrons and sold them to ChrisW for his 350) and a bigger brake master cylinder to go with the bigger brakes. I just wish Lotus would deliver the rear shocks so I can get the job finished....they have been on
  10. Hormann also do a side sliding door that disappears down the side (inside) of the garage. With that you wouldnt have to reduce the opening size becasue they go up to pretty big sizes...
  11. Unfortunately I dont know.....I sold the project when I moved to a new place and didnt have the space to finish it......
  12. Thanks Ruud. Despite all my previous comments I do feel that your most likely cause is a failed primary pump. Your engine only runs on the pressure created while the secondary pump runs briefly when you turn the ignition on. As soon as that that pressure is used to run the engine for a few seconds the engine dies because it isn't getting its main (primary pump) fuel supply...... Although the primary pump runs when its out of the tank that's no guarantee it can generate any pressure. This fuel pressure test kit has all you need (although it is £60) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/
  13. Interesting couple of purchases. If you need any help with the K3 I know a couple of people that have had them in the past that I could put you in touch with (including track-day modded ones) Ive had a couple of GTMs - a standard Spyder 1.8 that morphed into something called Big Lairy Spyder (Google it!) and a frankenstein Spyder that ended up with a KV6 engine and MGTF rear subframe that we built for trackdays (the yellow one)
  14. Hi, Im pretty sure they do, otherwise how would the system retain pressure after the pump is turned off? There is no separate check valve on an Esprit v8. To test if this is the problem you can buy a stand-alone in-line valve for a few pounds from ebay (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352823213738 - good quality but there are much cheaper ones if you want to risk it) and make up a temporary feed hose with a length of fuel hose, jubilee clips and a few cheap fittings. Make up the pipe to the fuel rail (make sure the check valve is the right way round to stop the fuel flowing back to the pumps)
  15. Most pumps have a non-return valve (check valve) in them which can fail. So the pump runs and generates pressure which quickly bleeds away when it stops. They may be able to hold a very low pressure, so enough to start the engine but not enough for it to run (or it may run badly). When you connect the pressure guage you wlll see the system pressurise when you turn on the ignition, but the pressure will quickly drop when it switches off. (the same symptom as a leaking in-tank hose). The only solution is to change the pump.
  16. Wow....what mood does that equate to?? Sounds like weekend high heels😂
  17. I have the PNM LED headlights fitted and they are ('scuse the pun) night and day better than the original halogen lights. While the 4 LED pattern may not be to everyone's taste the improvement in performance is well worth it....
  18. Hi All, Simple one this - has anyone found wiper blades that dont judder horribly....mine is driving me mad! Thanks....
  19. Thanks Ian... Im pretty sure the issue is a result of the much larger piston volume in the calipers than standard - therefore a long pedal is purely a result of having to pump a greater volume of fluid. The brakes have been on the car for a long time (fitted by a previous owner) and work awesomely but it feels a little over-braked at low speed and hard to modulate, so I'd prefer a slightly heavier and shorter pedal. An electric servo may cure the pedal effort problem, but not the travel. At the moment the ABS works fine and I'd like to keep it that way! I'll dig out the pa
  20. I think the standard brake master cylinder is 23.8mm diameter - does anyone know if the S350 and later '98-on Esprits have a bigger bore? The reason for the question is that my v8 has Alcon 6 pot front calipers and AP 4 pot rears, and while the stopping power and stamina are absolutely awesome the pedal travel is pretty long and very light. Ideally I'd like to fit a larger bore master cylinder to reduce the pedal travel and add more weight to the action. An alternative may be to change to pedal ratio, but I'd prefer a bolt on solution if possible......
  21. Totally agree with all the comments here - maintenance by workshops that do not know these cars is a lottery, not just as far as suspension goes but pretty much every aspect of the car mechanically. However, in terms of GEO setting they are even more specialised because so many adjustments require shims rather than tweaking an eccentric bolt or a few turns on an adjuster......so Dave, who do you recommend to do the job correctly? Northampton Motorsport? Centre Gravity? Any recommendations greatly received!
  22. Hi Mike, Are the ali pipes from the compressor outlets single piece or do they have a join (hard to see properly from the pics)? Mine have a silicone pipe joiner which as you've seen is too close to the exhaust manifolds and the whole thing needs refabricating with a single hard pipe from the compressor to the chargecooler. Dave.
  23. Call for help please.... A bit of a long shot but does anyone have the dimensions of the under-dash heater box for a later model (revised dashboard) v8? Im thinking about junking the entire original mash up and replacing it with a modern integrated unit with electronic controls but before I rip my dashboard apart I need to know if the unit I have in mind will fit. TIA...
  24. Wow...this one is unique - the ad says it has electric front and rear windows!!!
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