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AndyPG

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About AndyPG

  • Rank
    LOTU

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  • Name
    Andy
  • Car
    1990 Esprit SE
  • Location
    Lincolnshire

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  1. Usually a fine brass or nylon mesh. Andy.
  2. Hi Steve, Wouldn't cause any problems but IMO, not a very effective way to clean them. Better to operate them with the cleaner going through them. TBH, a few seconds is all it takes with the right cleaning setup. Andy.
  3. No problem Steve, I recognize it as a 10w resistor. I researched mine when it was apart. Deffo 10w. Plumbers flux is fine. You only need a light smear. When you say "string" type solder I assume you refer to "wire" type which is fine. Best if it's proper cored electronics stuff. TBH, you only need to apply a little flux and reflow the joints. Adding more solder is fine but optional. After all this, I hope the ballast resistor is the cause of your intermittent code 26. Andy.
  4. Hi Steve, That's why I'm leaning towards the O2 sensor. If it's reading somewhat inaccurately (ie, not completely knackered), this can be the case. Maybe try cleaning the O2 sensor. Sometimes contamination can be the issue. Worth a try. The charcoal cannister can be eliminated from the suspect list by simply disconnecting the pipe that goes from the cannister solenoid to the inlet manifold. Remember to plug it on the inlet manifold side to stop air leaking in. Can't imagine the fuel return line being blocked. There is potential inside the FPR. Your new gauge kit will a
  5. Hi Steve, As per previous messages, I'm pretty certain your intermittent code 26 isn't related to your rich running issue. Have you considered replacing the O2 sensor yet? Or try running Espritmon and upload the file so some of the experts can take a look. Andy.
  6. The resistor ends will likely be fine. It's the other two joints that give the trouble. No need to remove any old solder. Just apply a smear of flux and reflow. Add a little extra solder if you like. Andy.
  7. Hi Steve, Difficult to see on the pictures but the soldered joints where the PCB attaches to the terminals looks dodgy and that's there mine had cracked. Reflow them if you suspect they are. It appears your car has a 3 ohm resister where as mine was 3.3 ohm. As @Escape says, nothing to worry about. In any case, IMO the resistor itself will be fine. Andy.
  8. Thanks Simon. Makes perfect sense. Andy.
  9. I've done a quick search to see if it's been discussed previously but no results. Does anyone understand what's going on with the cheap Esprits which keep appearing in batches on ebay? They usually appear in groups of four and are often the same old pictures gathered off google. It's not limited to Esprits either. Looking through other classic car marque listings, the disease is there too. Prices are usually in the £2500 to £5800 range and ebay usually remove them in a day or two. Been seeing them appear for months now so I'm curious if anyone understands what the bogu
  10. Hi Steve, You are right. The fuel pressure gauge won't pinpoint a single leaking injector. My main focus was on how handy the cheap gauge kit is for checking your FPR. Leaking injectors can be caused by either debris lodged in the valve or wear and tear. To see if the secondaries are leaking, just remove the plenum nozzle complete with fuel lines and secondaries attached. Hold in a container then turn the ignition on to run the pump. Any leaks will be visible. ***Now before everyone jumps in, this is common practice and it goes without saying that you need to make sure
  11. TBH its a 7 bar gauge, in the kit, and a bit high range for accurately testing the waste gate actuator. A 2 bar gauge would be better. Lots on ebay and not expensive. That's a fair question. Best I can offer is; 1) Your fuel pump may be newer than you think. Even if worn, it can still chug out 60+psi which needs regulating. 2) The FPR does quite a balancing act and without over thinking this, the hardening of its diaphragm probably trumps the minuscule effect of a weakening spring. Pressure regulators are finely engineered devices. There's a complex interaction between
  12. No worries. You definitely need to re-flow the soldered joints inside the resistor though. Your continuity tests almost certainly indicate a cracked joint. It's a likely contender for the code 26 you've experienced. Andy.
  13. Hi Steve, I've posted on that thread. Have you tried Espritmon? Also get yourself one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vehicle-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Pressure-Gauge-Meter-Engine-Oil-Pressure-Tester-Kit/353112368361?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item52372324e9:g:CtcAAOSwGEFd5K7o&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkWpEuxXwAiCNKyBQsQ5%2Fe615L1KHLSLceclH0FM0KKWtINtOFdcZoPpAZ0M1UJqdqziytD2aHcHLoGUYYLnMBOQPVsNAlOB6IqwhMv9RG1HihaA6rRB9tN4J01DFuvTxPco%2FN1Kdjeom0WEimg26gHbEwa7Tcmrt%2FPfY22sbjv3ek2%2BkUhE5qzUrmQRUe7jngxsfHjGn9eAtdB2Um%2F2JzUdo00qD
  14. Judging by the rust behind the dislodged magnet, I guess it delaminated from the outer case some time ago. I suppose reconditioned starters usually get new bearings, new brushes and a good clean. As long as the magnets appear attached, its reasonably deemed fit for re-use. Andy.
  15. Hi Steve, The ballast resistor should measure 3.3ohms and has a rating of 10w, nothing to do with 10 amps. You can test the secondary injectors directly with a 12v supply as normal. The ballast resistor doesn't reduce the voltage to the secondary injectors, it simply satisfies the ECU by giving it the total circuit resistance it likes to see. It's a borrowed unit that was previously fitted to many american cars. Andy.
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