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Everything posted by AndyPG

  1. +1 on E10. Knowledge from another source (not personal experience)
  2. Correct fittings arrived from PNM this morning 1st class post. Great service. All fitted and working. Very warm here in Lincolnshire this morning so took it for a 50 mile drive and happy to report the hot weather gear change notchiness has completely gone. As discussed previously on the forums, in warm weather, after a half hour driving, selecting 1st and 2nd (and reverse) gears became more difficult. Not so difficult that it couldn't be done but very notchy. I had previously given the clutch hydraulics a good flush though and bleed without improvement. Fitted the braided hose and now 100% perfect. Cheers, Andy.
  3. Having spoken to PNM this morning, they are sending me two extra fittings with the larger 7/16" UNF thread. Apparently these should have been included as extras in my kit. They informed me that some cars have the larger (7/16") thread, some have the smaller (3/8") thread and some have a small and a large thread on the same hose. I'll report back on the braided hose vs red hose performance in hot weather once complete. Cheers, Andy.
  4. Your recollection is correct. Standard brake pipe is around 3.2mm bore whereas the red clutch pipe is 4.6mm bore. The PNM big bore braided clutch hose appears to be somewhere between the two. This said, are some Esprits fitted with master & slave cylinders with the smaller 3/8" UNF fittings? Andy
  5. Hi All, I purchased the PNM large bore braided hose a month or so ago and finally got round to fitting it this morning. As expected, the hose nuts wouldn't pass though the two holes in the front sub frame nor the rear chassis hole without slight modification. With the new hose fitted, I find the end fittings provided were 3/8" UNF but, both my master cylinder and slave cylinder take 7/16" UNF fittings. Doh!... no worries, wasn't planning to go out in it for a few days anyway. My red hose is original so it would appear that my car left the factory with 7/16" parts fitted. Looking at the hose photo on the PNM website, it would appear there should have been two extra/alternative?? fittings included in the kit. Although, close examination of the photo would indicate these are just another pair of 3/8" items (in the photo) I'll ring PNM tomorrow to see what the score is. Hopefully I'm missing a pair of 7/16" fittings. Andy.
  6. SJ Show the plug.
  7. Hi All, Thought I'd share this, as me and my SE are about to renew our vows. I've had my '90 SE for nearly 2 1/2 years now and pretty much enjoyed every minute of ownership. Yeh, it's a 90's car (of 70's design) with 83k miles on it so, I've always forgiven the engine for being a little......well...........less than silky smooth at times. I had a slight flat spot when pulling off the line, also evident if the throttle was blipped while idling, and the cold start and warm up period was pretty smelly. Even when warmed up, the exhaust smell was still strong. It's got the de-CAT conversion so I didn't worry. Then, along came trouble. A new level of lumpiness, a soft misfire and a drive that wasn't at all nice. Something had gone wrong. I removed the Rochester injectors and ran them through the injector testing/cleaning rig. One of the injectors was 9% down on flow rate and strangely, one was about 2% up. The other two were normal as per my previous injector testing/cleaning session a year or so earlier. I ran them through the cleaning process but couldn't get them on spec. They all still measured 2.0 - 2.1 ohms across the terminals and the spray patterns were still good (for a Rochester) I nervously decided it was time to part with a lump of cash and ordered a set of RC Engineering PL2-370 injectors from Fuel Performance Ltd. £403.99 inc vat and delivery. They came next day even though I'd selected the 2-4 day delivery option which was nice. Checked the resistance reading across the terminals, pleased see they were all 2.1 ohms. Fitted them without issue. Yes, they are a few millimetres shorter than the original Rochester but the O rings are still still well inserted into the fuel rail and inlet manifold. And what a difference from the moment i turned the key. The engine now idles and drives so smoothly, it's a revelation. The flat spot has completely disappeared when i pull off. The idle is now a soft purr rather than a throbby (sporty?) chug. And no more fumes from the exhaust. Yes, it doesn't smell as sweet as a CAT car but the pungency has gone. It feels cleaner and more lively in the lower rev ranges but mid to high range and ultimate acceleration experience is probably the same. If you're Rochesters have over 50k to 60k miles on them, I reckon you'll see a huge difference with the RC's. Cheers, for now. Andy.
  8. Hi Michael, A little toe in or toe out is not something you can discern with your eyes. The only way to know, is to measure it. There are a couple of DIY ways of checking it. Andy.
  9. Thanks Guys, 3kg (6.6lbs) @ 300mm does sound like a very typical pre-load spec for many of the racks I've read about. Not easy to attain such a high figure in the case of my Esprit rack though due to the relatively soft springs. As you tighten the inner ball joints, the spring compresses and the pre-load only increases by a small amount. I only achieved a pre-load figure of around 1.5lbs before the spring becomes fully compressed and the ball joint starts to bind. One reference I saw, described tightening the ball joint until it just starts to bind, then backing off until full and smooth articulate movement is regained then lock it off and job done. Another reference described tightening the ball joint until it just starts to bind, then backing off 0.002" then lock it off and job done. Neither of these references where specific to the Esprit rack. I would still be very interested to see the written instructions that come with a Esprit rack refurb kit. Andy.
  10. Happy New Year All, I decided to pull the steering rack out of my '90 SE for inspection. My latest MOT test had recorded an advisory on inner steering rod play. Also, a couple of years ago, the O/S gaiter came loose exposing the internals for a few hundred miles. So, I thought I'd take it off the car for a thorough coat of looking at. On the bench, it looks pretty good. The inner ball joints have no play and do not flop about under their own weight. There is some play in the nylon insert (bush) at the N/S end of the rack. The rack and pinion assembly has no play or lash in it but I can turn the splined shaft with my fingers (although not easily) Overall, I'm tempted to renew the bush, give it a good greasing and pop it back in the car. My question is, is there a spec on how stiff the inner rod joints and the splined shaft should be? Cheers, Andy.
  11. Or how about just a seal kit. Andy.
  12. Thanks for the comments Guys. I'll report back on how I get on. Andy.
  13. Hi Terry, This hanging throttle scenario is a classic symptom of an air leak. If your cable isn't binding, I would go through all the hoses and pipes connected to the inlet manifold. Or maybe a damaged or displaced "o" ring on one of your new injectors. Andy.
  14. Does anyone have any opinions on PNM's large bore clutch hose vs SJ's (presumably non large bore) hose? About a £tenner more. Seems the large bore version is the one likely to need some hole enlargement to allow passage through the chassis while the SJ hose may fit more easily. But I'm mostly interested in the advantage of the larger bore. Any experiences? Andy.
  15. Just a junction point for several common (ground?) wires. Andy.
  16. AndyPG

    Is it normal…

    Hi Grahame, Sorry for the late reply, been away for a couple of days. The RC injectors are known for occasionally throwing up ECU codes (presumably usually code 65) It's all down to how choosy your particular ECU is. The factory fitted injectors measure around 2.1 ohms. The ECU expects to see injector resistances of between 1.9 and 2.1 ohms. You have likely correctly measured your resistance and 2.6 ohms is high and well into the problem zone regarding compatibility with your ECU. Some people get away with it. I suspect your ECU is having none of it. So, questions; What prompted you to replace the original injectors? (suspect misfire?) Has the code 65 only started to appear soon after the RC injectors where fitted? (suspect yes) Where are your original injectors? Andy.
  17. AndyPG

    Is it normal…

    If it's on 3 cylinders and throwing a code 65, hopefully it's just a duff injector. Check the resistance of each unplugged injector. Should all be around 2.1 ohms. There's a chance it may actually be running on two cylinders though, in which case a faulty ECU becomes a possibility. Obviously you will need to check the injector circuit before final diagnosis. You can use the EMH section of the service notes for this. Andy.
  18. AndyPG

    Is it normal…

    Hi Grahame, Disconnect the battery then reconnect. That will clear the ECU of all codes. Andy.
  19. AndyPG

    Is it normal…

    Hi Grahame, Does the engine run? Andy.
  20. AndyPG

    Is it normal…

    Hi Grahame, All relatively easy to do without removal of the boot floor. Andy.
  21. Hi Viz, Hope you have sorted the problem, one way or another, but I'm pretty confident that the red grease was not the actual issue. Back in the days when seal kits didn't come with the little sachet and red stuff, we used to simply smear a little brake fluid on the seals during assembly. Nowadays, the sachet of assembly grease is usually provided and is widely known not to cause any issues. Even it the seal displacement/retraction effect is initially reduced, the natural run-out in the disk will ensure that no binding occurs while the grease displaces. Fingers crossed it's sorted either way. Andy.
  22. Hi All, Just had my 1990 Esprit Turbo SE in for it's MOT and the CO achieved, during the emissions test, was 1.2% at idle. At a fast idle of 2300rpm it was 0.68%. I was expecting it to me nearer the 3.5% limit, at idle, considering the usual rich running nature of these cars. Does anyone think this is a little lean? I'd be interested in CO data for other de-cat SE's . Andy.
  23. Perfect, thanks Steve. Wondered how it was done. Andy.
  24. Hi All, I'm servicing rear calipers on my '90 SE ready for it's upcoming MOT. They are the 45mm Bendix type with the aluminium cylinder body and cast iron pad holders. Is it possible to remove the aluminium part from the cast iron part? Andy.
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