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Everything posted by AndyPG

  1. Hi Viz, Hope you have sorted the problem, one way or another, but I'm pretty confident that the red grease was not the actual issue. Back in the days when seal kits didn't come with the little sachet and red stuff, we used to simply smear a little brake fluid on the seals during assembly. Nowadays, the sachet of assembly grease is usually provided and is widely known not to cause any issues. Even it the seal displacement/retraction effect is initially reduced, the natural run-out in the disk will ensure that no binding occurs while the grease displaces. Fingers crossed it's sorted either way. Andy.
  2. Hi All, Just had my 1990 Esprit Turbo SE in for it's MOT and the CO achieved, during the emissions test, was 1.2% at idle. At a fast idle of 2300rpm it was 0.68%. I was expecting it to me nearer the 3.5% limit, at idle, considering the usual rich running nature of these cars. Does anyone think this is a little lean? I'd be interested in CO data for other de-cat SE's . Andy.
  3. Perfect, thanks Steve. Wondered how it was done. Andy.
  4. Hi All, I'm servicing rear calipers on my '90 SE ready for it's upcoming MOT. They are the 45mm Bendix type with the aluminium cylinder body and cast iron pad holders. Is it possible to remove the aluminium part from the cast iron part? Andy.
  5. Hi Steve, Usually a leaking exhaust manifold gasket is visually evident with sooty marks and the like. Can you not hear a leak while running? usually quite noisy! I'm thinking you may be on the wrong scent here. Your hoover (in reverse) method is unusual but might work with rags stuffed in the throttle body inlets and spraying soapy water on the exhaust manifold. Doubt a hair dryer would be any good. What other "likely sources" for rich running have you checked? What leads you to think it is actually running rich? Andy.
  6. Hi Steve, I certainly wouldn't risk a 27 year old cat with a known over fueling issue. Would be a shame to kill it at this stage. Andy.
  7. Just check them all. Remove each relay and test the continuity through the two coil terminals. Wiggle the terminals about while testing to expose dry joints. Check the secondary injector circuit. Usual suspect is the ballast resistor. All relays and the ballast resistor are usually easy to repair. Andy.
  8. The 3000 figure was voluntary and a realistic expected mileage chosen by me. I'm sure that if I had told them 7000, the cost might only be a little more. Andy.
  9. Thanks for all your help Guys, I've now renewed the insurance on my Esprit 1990 SE for £139.00 with AIB. (Thanks Danny) (£25k agreed value, £300 excess, 3000miles per year, no breakdown cover) For your interest, here's the quotes I received; £139.00 AIB £144.00 Performance Direct £157.00 Peter Best Insurance £182.00 ClassicLine (Includes some breakdown cover) £235.00 Compare The Market website's best quote. Cheers, Andy.
  10. Hi Andy, Would you mind sharing the company's name per chance? Andy.
  11. Thanks guys, I've used the online quote form on Peter Best's website and they are quoting only 10% more that my previous insurance cost with Performance direct. Result. I'll give AIB and Classic line a try too. Will let you know my findings. Andy.
  12. Thanks Dan, Looking at their site now. Andy.
  13. Hi All, Wow, Just got my insurance renewal through. Gone up by nearly 80%. I'm currently with Performance Direct, anyone got any recommendations for a cheaper company? They were leagues ahead of everyone else last year. Andy.
  14. Hi Jukka, Yes, it is exactly as I described in my previous message. The metal "chip" as you call it, is the tip of the adjustment needle. I can see you might have been proggling around as the aluminium is marked. They are factory set so most owners don't tamper with them. The adjustment screw heads are under metal anti-tamper caps on the opposite side of the body. Sometimes the needle tip actually protrudes slightly out of the hole. All depends on the adjustment position. Andy.
  15. Hi Jukka, I have no means of opening your .HEIC files so can't quite be sure what you mean. If I were to guess, it sounds like you are talking about the throttle body balance air bleeds and the metal bit is one of the needle adjustment screws. They are just upstream of the butterfly at the top of the choke. Certainly do not drill, and leave alone unless you want to enter the world of re-balancing your throttles. Andy.
  16. Hi Jon, Might just be my PC but the link in your signature doesn't seem to work. Is it me? Andy.
  17. Hi Eric, With the greatest respect, I'm not sure you've entirely nailed caster theory there. Caster relates to the steering axis pivot angle rather than wheel position. Positive caster actually increases stresses to a degree, causing the steering wheel to self-centre improving high speed stability. Andy.
  18. Hi HsPeck, Seeing as you have discovered shims on both sides of the front upper ball joint, I agree with your approach. Andy.
  19. You're quite right. Just found the thread I was looking for, and participated in. Seems my memory is failing. When I checked and corrected my geometry last summer, all was fine apart from front toe and caster. I think I found shim plates both sides of my ball joints too. Come to think of it, I've read several threads reporting the same. Sometimes makes me wonder if some Esprits came out of the factory like this. Perish the thought. Andy.
  20. Hi hspeck, I tried searching for a recent in-depth discussion on these shims to send you but I can't find it at the moment. From memory, there can be shims on both sides of the top ball joint. I seem to recall that there should be a total of 6 or 10mm??? (can't remember off hand) of shims present between the wish bones. And depending on requirements, they are placed both sides of the ball joint to achieve the correct caster while maintaining the correct space between the wish bones. Needs looking into as your manual might be a little vague. Andy.
  21. Hi hspeck, Most alignment centres don't seem to want to get involved beyond adjusting threaded rods and lock nuts. It's only the performance specialists that will, and probably should, engage with the Esprit, as Dave has mentioned. I don't want to go head to head with anyone, each to their own, but I am quite happy aligning my Esprit myself at home with basic equipment. IMHO, I think it is an achievable, and interesting task if you know what you're doing. You can then have a check done at your local shop, if you trust them. Andy.
  22. Hi hspeck, Having just measured my radius arms, they appear to be around 550mm long from the front pivot to the centre of the drive shaft. (Rough measurement as my car is not jacked up) So, following on from my previous post, 550x2x3.142/360 = 9.6mm per degree. So, a 1mm shim would alter the rear toe by around 0.1 degree and a 1.5mm shim would alter the toe by 0.15 degrees. All based on the maths but should be close to real world findings. Andy.
  23. Hi hspeck, Using a simple geometry calculation could help you with this if no-one knows. If the rear radius arm measures say 600mm from its front pivot to the centre of the drive shaft, a 10.5mm thick shim would be required to move the toe 1 degree. If the rear radius arm measures say 700mm from its front pivot to the centre of the drive shaft, a 12.2mm thick shim would be required to move the toe 1 degree. ie Radius arm length X 2 X 3.142 the divided by 360 will give you the theoretical shim thickness per degree. Just apply your radius arm measurement to the formula above. Considering the figures, it looks like 1mm and 1.5mm shims will give a very fine adjustment. Just a guide, just trying to help. Andy.
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