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About rabidh

  • Birthday 03/01/1983

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  • Name
    Gordon Williams
  • Car
    Evora 2010
  • Location
    Oxfordshire, UK

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  1. Ahh, thanks! I'll give that a try and see what happens. I didn't think to just try the 'clear' option. If that doesn't work I'll definitely get in touch, thanks!
  2. Hi! I bought an Autel ML629 and tried the steps above, but it says it can't communicate with the unit. I've got a standard S1 Evora (2010) - any ideas what I could be doing wrong?
  3. Thanks - hope it helps someone. The PCB is pretty simple and I took some measurements while it was out, so if there's demand I could make new PCBs (that weren't £230!). It feels like there's really no need for the fancy aluminium PCB - it draws very little power (200mA at 12v) so there's not a bunch of heat being dissipated. The fancy PCB is probably making the lights *more* likely to fail because of all the expansion/contraction.
  4. Hi everyone, Not sure if this has been covered before (I couldn't find anything) but my Evora had one sidelight much dimmer than the other and I managed to fix it. Everything I found online suggested either sending the unit off, or trying to split it in half and then replace the whole LED module with this for £230. It turns out you can do everything from the back of the light without dismantling it at all. Remove the light unit from the car (jack it up, remove wheelarch liner, unscrew, pull out backwards) Pull off the rubber bung for replacing the headlight bulb The sidelights are held in with 2x spring clips - bend the end of a bit of strong wire into a small right angle, then poke it through the headlight hole, hook it into the clip, and slowly pull a little on one side then the other until the clip is free Use a magnet on a stick to get the clip back Once both clips are out you can pull the LED module out - it even has a plug/socket for power I traced the circuit out, but at least in my case (circle dim, top LED full brightness) all the LEDs were fine, and it was the resistor R1 (16 ohms) that was broken. Basically the whole PCB is on an aluminium backing, even though it only draws about 3 watts of power! The aluminium shrinks and grows quite a lot with heat, and so it just stretched and cracked the end of the resistor. I replaced it with a through-hole part as that's what I had handy and the whole thing sprung to life. Refitting is the reverse of removal I fiddled the LED PCB back into the hole, then pressed the spring clips back on with a magnet on a stick (to hold one side) and a chopstick to press on the other side. All sorted in a few hours, and not a very painful thing to do at all - worst bit was getting the light unit out of the car and re-aligning it. Hope that saves some of you a few quid anyway
  5. Thanks! That looks spot on! I'll get in touch and ask. I bodged up a new mudflap bracket out of aluminium but seeing Miguel's beautiful ones makes me think it's worth replacing it
  6. Hi! Last week I had a go at realigning the front bumper on my 2010 Evora as it feels like it's been sitting a bit low. However, the second I took off the wheelarch liners I realised that the brackets the liner screws into are completely shot, front and rear. They're plan steel brackets with wet felt pressed against them so they were always going to die pretty quick by the look of it. I'm talking about parts 4 and 5 here: - plus the ones to the rear of the wheel that are riveted on. The odd thing is new ones appear to be around £35 each, but for some reason part 4 specifically is £95 despite being the mirror image of 5. Is there an updated version of these brackets that is more corrosion resistant? There seem to be a few different versions listed on the link above, so were they changed in later model years and could I just fit one of those instead? thanks!
  7. Shame it's more of a pain to get to on the S I guess there's just more stuff crammed in there. I just phoned up my local Toyota dealer - they didn't have the parts in stock but they got them in (I think?) 3 days. They did ask about the car but in the end were fine just knowing it was a 2GR-FE. They weren't able to find the kit (04004-29131) but the part number 15767-31020 worked fine - and from there they could add the two gaskets needed. The pipe + gaskets + oil filter + sump plug gasket + oil came to £200ish if I recall.
  8. Hi! I realised I forgot to update this. I replaced the pipe. All in all it was a pretty quick job (I already had the rear seats out). Remove the rear seats Remove the access panel - it's in just the right place to make this easy You can just about see the pipe in the bottom right of this picture. There are 2 studs and one bolt in each end. I undid the nuts/bolts with a combination of sockets and extensions Then you can't get the pipe off because of the angles. You could cut the pipe but then you can't get the new one on. Instead I just used a torx socket to undo the two studs in the top part of the pipe (it seemed easier to get to) and the pipe comes off easily On mine, Lotus routed a cable through the middle of the 2 pipes, so I cut one of the rubber pipes anyway rather than touching the cable Clean the paint from the old gasket off the engine Re-add the new pipe and gaskets Replace the 2 studs, do everything up, cable-tie the wire (that had gone between the 2 oil pipes) up and you're good.
  9. Parts ordered - pipe, gaskets, filter and new oil came to £200ish Should get it on Friday so we'll see how much of a nightmare it is at the weekend
  10. Thanks Dave, that's great. I'll get those bits ordered. Nice to see a photo of the new part on that thread as well. There seem to be a few videos around - this one gives a really clear view: I'm sure it's more cramped on the Evora, but it doesn't look like a big deal at all. > never got around to doing it on mine, since the oil has to be drained first Conveniently, my car has already done that for me!
  11. Great, thanks! that's really good news in terms of DIYing it - I wasn't looking forward to trying to get around the side of the engine. Any idea why it would have been pulsing like that! Does the engine somehow pulse the oil to the cooler while it's warming up?
  12. Hi! I've just about had my Evora 2010 NA 2 months now, and recently I noticed a slight oily smell for a week which I couldn't place - I'd had the bumper off recently to replace the reversing camera and I figured it might have been from some grease I put on rusty fixings I'd found. Had to take a trip for a few days and I noticed some white smoke as i got to the train station, then when I went back to the car park 2 days later there was a big puddle of oil under the car. I got some oil, topped it up, limped home, and found oil basically pouring from the undertray when I pulled up. Took the tray off and found this: So oil is squiring from what looks like a 1mm hole in the rubber hose! A friend spotted that it seems to be a known problem on the 2GR-FE's VVTi hose, and there seems to be a fully metal replacement pipe. It looks like there's a recall on the Evora S, but I can't find anything on the normal Evora. Given the exhaust positioning it feels like if I'd been thrashing the car this really easily could have been a fireball - and there's at least one Pistonheads thread where it has been. So I had a few questions.... Is there a (non-S) Evora recall? And does that mean it'd be a free of charge fix? My car isn't in great condition but it did have full Lotus service history, and the car was actually owned by lotus during the period that the recall was issued, so it feels like this should have been sorted - especially as it went into Lotus Silverstone for a clutch replacement less that 6 months ago. Is this definitely the VVT pipe? the strange pulsing (once a second?) makes me think it might be, but there's another rubber hose in the same region too... And how hard is this to fix myself? I'm reasonably adept at fixing stuff, and honestly if it's not a nightmare clam off job I feel like I'd be better off doing it myself than fighting Lotus and then trying to get it on a low loader to the nearest Lotus service centre. thanks! - Gordon
  13. Thanks! Yes, that's it. It's really helpful to see what's on the other side. Good idea with the drill stop - let's hope it doesn't come to that though! I'll definitely try and tidy up the thread - might be a job for a Dremel wire brush though!
  14. It's what I circled in the diagram in my last post. Basically the nut that you get to at the top of the wheelarch, so a bit of a pain to get to without removing the liner. It's a different area to what you'd mentioned (near the boot) but I believe it's basically the same thing (a threaded stud attached to a backplate). While it's no help for figuring out where it is, I did manage to get a picture of it (attached). There's still a bit of thread on it so I reckon I'll weld some threaded bar into a nut, then screw that on (with a bit of resin/araldite). Might need a few extra packing washers but I think that'll hold the bumper on well and will be easy to remove. Turns out on the other side the stud is still fine, but the backplate has come loose
  15. Thanks! Actually drilling it out and tapping seems like a good call. My only concern with that is it's in the clamshell facing out - so if I drill too far (which is kinda likely if I get to the end of the steel and there's just fibreglass after it) then I'm going to go straight through the bodywork What I could do though is see if I can cut away a bit of the fibreglass around it and get at any extra bits of thread. If there's enough left I might be able to weld up some extra thread onto the end of a nut...
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