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rabidh

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About rabidh

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  • Birthday 03/01/1983

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  • Website URL
    http://espruino.com

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  • Name
    Gordon Williams
  • Car
    Evora 2010
  • Location
    Oxfordshire, UK

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  1. Thanks! Yes, that's it. It's really helpful to see what's on the other side. Good idea with the drill stop - let's hope it doesn't come to that though! I'll definitely try and tidy up the thread - might be a job for a Dremel wire brush though!
  2. It's what I circled in the diagram in my last post. Basically the nut that you get to at the top of the wheelarch, so a bit of a pain to get to without removing the liner. It's a different area to what you'd mentioned (near the boot) but I believe it's basically the same thing (a threaded stud attached to a backplate). While it's no help for figuring out where it is, I did manage to get a picture of it (attached). There's still a bit of thread on it so I reckon I'll weld some threaded bar into a nut, then screw that on (with a bit of resin/araldite). Might need a few extra packing washers but I think that'll hold the bumper on well and will be easy to remove. Turns out on the other side the stud is still fine, but the backplate has come loose
  3. Thanks! Actually drilling it out and tapping seems like a good call. My only concern with that is it's in the clamshell facing out - so if I drill too far (which is kinda likely if I get to the end of the steel and there's just fibreglass after it) then I'm going to go straight through the bodywork What I could do though is see if I can cut away a bit of the fibreglass around it and get at any extra bits of thread. If there's enough left I might be able to weld up some extra thread onto the end of a nut...
  4. Hi! I've been trying to go around my (new to me, but 10 year old) Evora fixing the little niggles, and one of the issues was the reversing camera - which required me to remove the bumper. Having just taken the bumper off I've noticed the previous owner/garage has had it off before and made a complete mess. On each side, the bolts securing the bottom of the bumper to the bracket in the wheel arch have been snapped off and replaced with an off-center self tapper On the passenger side at the top edge of the bumper, the stud in the rear clam shell that the bumper should attach to is snapped off. Any ideas how I could fix the nicely? The snapped bolts for the bracket aren't a big deal since I can just tap a new hole and/or insert a threaded insert However the snapped stud in the rear clam seems like a nightmare. Is there an accepted way of fixing this? All I can think is to grind it back and fibreglass in a new bolt and plate, but that's pretty extreme. thanks!
  5. Just to add that having compared side by side the Suzuki struts do appear to be about 1cm shorter when extended, which does mean the boot sits an inch or two lower than before - but it's still a good fix for me at least as it'd never stay open at all before
  6. You just need a flat-blade screwdriver to prise the metal clip on the end of the strut up while you pull the strut off the boot, but otherwise it's pretty easy. Video below is from SGS who provided the other struts: Also, can confirm - I used my head, and it was mildly uncomfortable. It's only 5 minutes though
  7. I just installed "Rear Tailgate Gas Strut Set for Suzuki Alto 2009-16" from eBay - 410mm total length (16 inch), 300Nm force (looks like OEM are 250Nm?) £11.32 for the pair, delivered - and they have the correct fittings already. Looks like SGS bumped the price so their gas struts are now around £70 delivered so I thought it was worth a try - and they work great! The boot sits down when unlocked, but as soon as you pull it up a foot it pops itself up nicely which I guess is the intended behaviour?
  8. Thanks! I'll take a look at that fabric by the windscreen - I hadn't thought to feel there. That'd really narrow it down - it sure looks to me as if the windscreen has been replaced by someone who didn't really know what they were doing so I wouldn't be surprised if it was a leak there. @21gg did you remove the two A pillar covers and then go under them? I'd be a bit concerned that if I siliconed around the top it'd be really noticeable? @Spanky3 I've had basically the same thing - when I got the car it was pretty damp. I took the mats out and dried them and it seemed ok despite some pretty heavy rain, but I had one wet day I put air con on and it was soaking inside after (but that could just be coincidence). My driveway has a slight slope so it could even be related to what angle I parked it at!
  9. Possibly? Any thoughts how I'd check and/or fix it? I went around the whole windscreen with a watering can and couldn't see anywhere obvious. The A-pillar covers on each side aren't properly taped on all the way down, but if I pour water into the gaps it all appears to come out on the outside of the car...
  10. Thanks - you mean the large (5inch-ish?) grommit? I did give that a look but there's not anything obviously broken, and I can't see any damp there. The carpeted area in the middle under the dash just forward of the gearstick seems abnormally damp though (more than I'd expect if it was wicking up moisture) but I've never been able to spot where the water might have been dropping onto it from!
  11. Hi! Sorry for the thread resurrection but I've just got an Evora and it seems to get pretty damp inside - and I'm pretty sure it's far worse when the air con is on. So I took off the undertray as suggested and found one obvious pipe that seemed to already have had the valve removed, but I'm really struggling to find where the other pipe is. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CiupfNF9ojmPGmZB9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/LYtyjk6zmWAZVKog8 Please could someone give me a clue about where the second pipe comes out (or should have come out)? The undertray isn't entirely off at the front in the pictures as the U-nuts had rusted through and been replaced with (also rusted) nuts. I'm waiting on some new clips before I fix it
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