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rabidh

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Everything posted by rabidh

  1. Ahh, thanks! I'll give that a try and see what happens. I didn't think to just try the 'clear' option. If that doesn't work I'll definitely get in touch, thanks!
  2. Hi! I bought an Autel ML629 and tried the steps above, but it says it can't communicate with the unit. I've got a standard S1 Evora (2010) - any ideas what I could be doing wrong?
  3. Thanks - hope it helps someone. The PCB is pretty simple and I took some measurements while it was out, so if there's demand I could make new PCBs (that weren't £230!). It feels like there's really no need for the fancy aluminium PCB - it draws very little power (200mA at 12v) so there's not a bunch of heat being dissipated. The fancy PCB is probably making the lights *more* likely to fail because of all the expansion/contraction.
  4. Hi everyone, Not sure if this has been covered before (I couldn't find anything) but my Evora had one sidelight much dimmer than the other and I managed to fix it. Everything I found online suggested either sending the unit off, or trying to split it in half and then replace the whole LED module with this for £230. It turns out you can do everything from the back of the light without dismantling it at all. Remove the light unit from the car (jack it up, remove wheelarch liner, unscrew, pull out backwards) Pull off the rubber bung for replacing the headlight bulb T
  5. Thanks! That looks spot on! I'll get in touch and ask. I bodged up a new mudflap bracket out of aluminium but seeing Miguel's beautiful ones makes me think it's worth replacing it
  6. Hi! Last week I had a go at realigning the front bumper on my 2010 Evora as it feels like it's been sitting a bit low. However, the second I took off the wheelarch liners I realised that the brackets the liner screws into are completely shot, front and rear. They're plan steel brackets with wet felt pressed against them so they were always going to die pretty quick by the look of it. I'm talking about parts 4 and 5 here: https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=12617&MAK=1&MDL=20&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 - plus the ones to the rear of the wheel that are riveted on
  7. Shame it's more of a pain to get to on the S I guess there's just more stuff crammed in there. I just phoned up my local Toyota dealer - they didn't have the parts in stock but they got them in (I think?) 3 days. They did ask about the car but in the end were fine just knowing it was a 2GR-FE. They weren't able to find the kit (04004-29131) but the part number 15767-31020 worked fine - and from there they could add the two gaskets needed. The pipe + gaskets + oil filter + sump plug gasket + oil came to £200ish if I recall.
  8. Hi! I realised I forgot to update this. I replaced the pipe. All in all it was a pretty quick job (I already had the rear seats out). Remove the rear seats Remove the access panel - it's in just the right place to make this easy You can just about see the pipe in the bottom right of this picture. There are 2 studs and one bolt in each end. I undid the nuts/bolts with a combination of sockets and extensions Then you can't get the pipe off because of the angles. You could cut the pipe but then you can't get the new one on. Instead I just used a torx socket to
  9. Parts ordered - pipe, gaskets, filter and new oil came to £200ish Should get it on Friday so we'll see how much of a nightmare it is at the weekend
  10. Thanks Dave, that's great. I'll get those bits ordered. Nice to see a photo of the new part on that thread as well. There seem to be a few videos around - this one gives a really clear view: I'm sure it's more cramped on the Evora, but it doesn't look like a big deal at all. > never got around to doing it on mine, since the oil has to be drained first Conveniently, my car has already done that for me!
  11. Great, thanks! that's really good news in terms of DIYing it - I wasn't looking forward to trying to get around the side of the engine. Any idea why it would have been pulsing like that! Does the engine somehow pulse the oil to the cooler while it's warming up?
  12. Hi! I've just about had my Evora 2010 NA 2 months now, and recently I noticed a slight oily smell for a week which I couldn't place - I'd had the bumper off recently to replace the reversing camera and I figured it might have been from some grease I put on rusty fixings I'd found. Had to take a trip for a few days and I noticed some white smoke as i got to the train station, then when I went back to the car park 2 days later there was a big puddle of oil under the car. I got some oil, topped it up, limped home, and found oil basically pouring from the undertray when I pulled up. Took the
  13. Thanks! Yes, that's it. It's really helpful to see what's on the other side. Good idea with the drill stop - let's hope it doesn't come to that though! I'll definitely try and tidy up the thread - might be a job for a Dremel wire brush though!
  14. It's what I circled in the diagram in my last post. Basically the nut that you get to at the top of the wheelarch, so a bit of a pain to get to without removing the liner. It's a different area to what you'd mentioned (near the boot) but I believe it's basically the same thing (a threaded stud attached to a backplate). While it's no help for figuring out where it is, I did manage to get a picture of it (attached). There's still a bit of thread on it so I reckon I'll weld some threaded bar into a nut, then screw that on (with a bit of resin/araldite). Might need a few extra packing washer
  15. Thanks! Actually drilling it out and tapping seems like a good call. My only concern with that is it's in the clamshell facing out - so if I drill too far (which is kinda likely if I get to the end of the steel and there's just fibreglass after it) then I'm going to go straight through the bodywork What I could do though is see if I can cut away a bit of the fibreglass around it and get at any extra bits of thread. If there's enough left I might be able to weld up some extra thread onto the end of a nut...
  16. Hi! I've been trying to go around my (new to me, but 10 year old) Evora fixing the little niggles, and one of the issues was the reversing camera - which required me to remove the bumper. Having just taken the bumper off I've noticed the previous owner/garage has had it off before and made a complete mess. On each side, the bolts securing the bottom of the bumper to the bracket in the wheel arch have been snapped off and replaced with an off-center self tapper On the passenger side at the top edge of the bumper, the stud in the rear clam shell that the bumper should att
  17. Just to add that having compared side by side the Suzuki struts do appear to be about 1cm shorter when extended, which does mean the boot sits an inch or two lower than before - but it's still a good fix for me at least as it'd never stay open at all before
  18. You just need a flat-blade screwdriver to prise the metal clip on the end of the strut up while you pull the strut off the boot, but otherwise it's pretty easy. Video below is from SGS who provided the other struts: Also, can confirm - I used my head, and it was mildly uncomfortable. It's only 5 minutes though
  19. I just installed "Rear Tailgate Gas Strut Set for Suzuki Alto 2009-16" from eBay - 410mm total length (16 inch), 300Nm force (looks like OEM are 250Nm?) £11.32 for the pair, delivered - and they have the correct fittings already. Looks like SGS bumped the price so their gas struts are now around £70 delivered so I thought it was worth a try - and they work great! The boot sits down when unlocked, but as soon as you pull it up a foot it pops itself up nicely which I guess is the intended behaviour?
  20. Thanks! I'll take a look at that fabric by the windscreen - I hadn't thought to feel there. That'd really narrow it down - it sure looks to me as if the windscreen has been replaced by someone who didn't really know what they were doing so I wouldn't be surprised if it was a leak there. @21gg did you remove the two A pillar covers and then go under them? I'd be a bit concerned that if I siliconed around the top it'd be really noticeable? @Spanky3 I've had basically the same thing - when I got the car it was pretty damp. I took the mats out and dried them and it seemed ok despite some
  21. Possibly? Any thoughts how I'd check and/or fix it? I went around the whole windscreen with a watering can and couldn't see anywhere obvious. The A-pillar covers on each side aren't properly taped on all the way down, but if I pour water into the gaps it all appears to come out on the outside of the car...
  22. Thanks - you mean the large (5inch-ish?) grommit? I did give that a look but there's not anything obviously broken, and I can't see any damp there. The carpeted area in the middle under the dash just forward of the gearstick seems abnormally damp though (more than I'd expect if it was wicking up moisture) but I've never been able to spot where the water might have been dropping onto it from!
  23. Hi! Sorry for the thread resurrection but I've just got an Evora and it seems to get pretty damp inside - and I'm pretty sure it's far worse when the air con is on. So I took off the undertray as suggested and found one obvious pipe that seemed to already have had the valve removed, but I'm really struggling to find where the other pipe is. https://photos.app.goo.gl/CiupfNF9ojmPGmZB9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/LYtyjk6zmWAZVKog8 Please could someone give me a clue about where the second pipe comes out (or should have come out)? The undertray isn't entirely off at the fro
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