BernardSG

Thank you all for your replies - very consistent. Clearly I'm not looking at tracking the car - there's no track in Singapore to start with! So will stick to the rebuild if deemed necessary. Bernard

Hello! The gearbox (Lotus 5 speed) on my S1 Eclat is getting tired. It's pretty much impossible to engage first now. While I'm not sure what is the extent of the damage, the shop I sent it to started mentioning a full rebuild, so I'd like to consider my options. One of which would be a replacement. If I were to go down that path, would a Getrag from an S2 be a better choice than the Lotus box? I read they are superior, but would it be a lot more work to fit it rather than an S1 ? Thanks a lot for your inputs! Regards, Bernard

Hi everyone! I'm finally in a position to close this topic: I followed Michael recommendation and had a look at my indicator stalk. It was indeed partially melted. Ordered one (plus a bunch of other bits) from SJ and replaced it. Everything now works! I take this back: everything related to the lights now works ;) At the same time, I realized that the stalk on mine was not the original version , so the replacement also addresses that. Thanks all for the support, moving on to other issues now! Cheers!

Thank you Michael for your help, I had not thought of this. It could indeed explain why only the low beam don't work. I hope it's not too difficult to get to that switch!

Hi eveyone, thank you very much for the new pointers! First, low beam vs high beam : I have to admit I hadn't checked in High beam. I was just using low beam when I had these open/close cycles. Then, the thermal interruptor. I didn't find much info about it on the forum, but a Wikipedia page mentioned the following : Thermal switches are included in some light fixtures, particularly with recessed lights, where excessive heat is most likely to occur. This may lead to "cycling", where a light turns off and back on every few minutes It made me quite certain it was the culprit, as it really corresponds to my symptoms. But then I took it for another drive. And today, the behavior was different. The pods remained open throughout, but the lights are off. If I switch to the high beam, everything is fine (lights are on, pods remain open) which left me puzzled. Why does is the problem only for low beam? I tried swapping the fuses (high beam vs low beam), but no difference. I checked the wiring diagram, and mine being a late serie eclat (1979), it does have a relay after the thermal sensor (see file attached) I guess I'll try to find this thermal switch and the relay and check the connections... Cheers, Bernard

Thank you both. This would be one of the relays under the steering column/driver footwell, right? Any hint as to how to identify which one?

Hi Peter, I have the paper version, but even that is not fantastic quality. I've just scanned for you (attached), I assumed it was a RHD non federal, let. Me know otherwise. Not sure it's a lot better than what you already have Cheers, Bernard RHD early S1 Heater.pdf

Hi Tony, They're still vacuum operated. I don't think there is any major leak as the pods stay in the closed position for over a week when the car is not driven. Thanks! Bernard

Thanks Richard! I'll have to keep investigating. During a short drive today, I realized that the headlights not only close on their own, but after while they reopen on their own as well... And then its an endless cycle. Open, close, open, close... I suspect its something to do with the voltage drawn from the battery : with both headlights and aircon on, I see the volts going down... Then the lights close, Voltage slowly goes back up, and after a while the lights open... I'll have to retry without the aircon, to see if I face the same symptoms. Cheers! Bernard

Hello everyone! Eventful drive yesterday : it started raining heavily and got quite dark. I switched on the lights, but after a couple of minutes, they retracted on their own (I believe the lights were still on; but the pods went down). I couldn't bring them back up right away. I tried again a minute later or so and this time it worked. Not for long though. I tried again today in full daylight, dry weather. The same thing happened. The pods don't stay up for long. Any idea of what it could be? A faulty relay? Cheers! Bernard

Hi everyone! I'm keen to fix the bonnet light on my S1 Eclat. But there's no voltage at the lamp : cables are cut somewhere under the insolution foam. I found the information below on this old thread. I would like to better understand the path of these cables from the bonnet to the "loom"; Would anyone be able to share a picture? Thank you! Bernard

Hi everyone, The boot of my S1 eclat tends to opens on its own..the lock itself seems OK, but the "hook" ("catch"? Sorry not sure what is the correct word) is worn - I suspect it is the main culprit. But I can't find this part on either RDent or Sjsportscars, so I'm wondering if it is original... Any idea? Picture to illustrate below And yes, I'll have to change the seal as well Thanks a lot! Bernard

Thanks! You're right, good images on Google. Looks like my alternator currently sits where the compressor is supposed to go! The car originally had just a heater. No aircon, so no bracket. And then to work with the electric compressor, a larger alternator has been fitted, so that would possibly have to be changed as well. Mmm... Not feeling overly confident with this.. I'll send the engine pic to my mechanic to see if he feels inspired Thanks again

Hi everyone, I'm still considering if I can fit a regular sanden compressor in the car, but struggle to understand how to fit it in the engine bay. Would one of you have pictures of the air con compressor and the belt setup? I haven't been very successful with my searches on Google... Thank you! Bernard

Thank you! Will they be wet all the way till the end of the trumpet? Or where the butterfly valve is?