BernardSG

Thank you Michael for your help, I had not thought of this. It could indeed explain why only the low beam don't work. I hope it's not too difficult to get to that switch!

Hi eveyone, thank you very much for the new pointers! First, low beam vs high beam : I have to admit I hadn't checked in High beam. I was just using low beam when I had these open/close cycles. Then, the thermal interruptor. I didn't find much info about it on the forum, but a Wikipedia page mentioned the following : Thermal switches are included in some light fixtures, particularly with recessed lights, where excessive heat is most likely to occur. This may lead to "cycling", where a light turns off and back on every few minutes It made me quite certain it was the culpr

Thank you both. This would be one of the relays under the steering column/driver footwell, right? Any hint as to how to identify which one?

Hi Peter, I have the paper version, but even that is not fantastic quality. I've just scanned for you (attached), I assumed it was a RHD non federal, let. Me know otherwise. Not sure it's a lot better than what you already have Cheers, Bernard RHD early S1 Heater.pdf

Hi Tony, They're still vacuum operated. I don't think there is any major leak as the pods stay in the closed position for over a week when the car is not driven. Thanks! Bernard

Thanks Richard! I'll have to keep investigating. During a short drive today, I realized that the headlights not only close on their own, but after while they reopen on their own as well... And then its an endless cycle. Open, close, open, close... I suspect its something to do with the voltage drawn from the battery : with both headlights and aircon on, I see the volts going down... Then the lights close, Voltage slowly goes back up, and after a while the lights open... I'll have to retry without the aircon, to see if I face the same symptoms. Cheers! Bernard

Hello everyone! Eventful drive yesterday : it started raining heavily and got quite dark. I switched on the lights, but after a couple of minutes, they retracted on their own (I believe the lights were still on; but the pods went down). I couldn't bring them back up right away. I tried again a minute later or so and this time it worked. Not for long though. I tried again today in full daylight, dry weather. The same thing happened. The pods don't stay up for long. Any idea of what it could be? A faulty relay? Cheers! Bernard

Hi everyone! I'm keen to fix the bonnet light on my S1 Eclat. But there's no voltage at the lamp : cables are cut somewhere under the insolution foam. I found the information below on this old thread. I would like to better understand the path of these cables from the bonnet to the "loom"; Would anyone be able to share a picture? Thank you! Bernard

Hi everyone, The boot of my S1 eclat tends to opens on its own..the lock itself seems OK, but the "hook" ("catch"? Sorry not sure what is the correct word) is worn - I suspect it is the main culprit. But I can't find this part on either RDent or Sjsportscars, so I'm wondering if it is original... Any idea? Picture to illustrate below And yes, I'll have to change the seal as well Thanks a lot! Bernard

Thanks! You're right, good images on Google. Looks like my alternator currently sits where the compressor is supposed to go! The car originally had just a heater. No aircon, so no bracket. And then to work with the electric compressor, a larger alternator has been fitted, so that would possibly have to be changed as well. Mmm... Not feeling overly confident with this.. I'll send the engine pic to my mechanic to see if he feels inspired Thanks again

Hi everyone, I'm still considering if I can fit a regular sanden compressor in the car, but struggle to understand how to fit it in the engine bay. Would one of you have pictures of the air con compressor and the belt setup? I haven't been very successful with my searches on Google... Thank you! Bernard

Thank you! Will they be wet all the way till the end of the trumpet? Or where the butterfly valve is?

Thank you both! I'll try to block the hole for the time being. I know it's supposed to go to the tube, but not that easy to reconnect properly. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I had a look at the hole in my airbox (circle in red on the picture below). Is it important to plug it? Is duct tape an option or is it a bad idea? I wonder how much suction there is and if it would likely unstick it...? Thank you! Bernard Hi

Thanks again for all the comments and hints! 1 - good for the hissing noise being normal. One less thing to worry about... 2 - the spring is there. When I action the cable by hand it goes back in position well 3- sticking throttle cable : I'll have a look this weekend when I face the problem again., but again, actioning the lever manually seems to work fine. I just had a look at the engine bay for potential vacuum leaks. I found other problems - the cam housing Gasket is damaged. Don't know how I missed that earlier. - the crank case Breather hose is not