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Posts posted by MPx

  1. 2 hours ago, C8RKH said:

    ....and the batteries don't like small journeys and high cycle frequencies.

    It's bloody hard to sell a 4 year old Tesla in the UK and getting harder. And a lot of the older BEVs are getting to the point where the batteries are going end of live.

    I predict next year there will be loads of stories about people being hammered for thousands, often more than their car is worth, for new batteries!

    Where are you getting your prompts for these thoughts Andy?  We've run an i3 for nearly 2 years and as a result I spend some time on the SpeakEV forum (which is a bit painful I admit) and these sorts of rumours are regularly flamed there.   

    Its certainly not true that the batteries in the i3 react badly to small journeys and frequent recharging.  That is exactly how we use ours and have had absolutely no degradation in 2 years, which is still only 10k miles.  There are many reporting i3s from as early as 2014 with no battery degradation and there have been no battery swaps so far under the "80% of capacity in 8 years or a free swap" BMW warranty.  Some cars reported coming up to 200k miles now.  (This good news is for the BEV version - the version with the Range Extender motor has a bit of a - petrol engine - reliability reputation and was dropped by BMW last year)

    I've been looking at Tesla as a poss replacement for my 5.0SC RangeRover.  I've seen that depreciation on them is actually slightly less than on the Rangey.  Both £100k+ new for a top spec so otherwise comparable financially.  I tend to buy at 4/5 years old and the Teslas I've looked at appear to have sold - or at least moved on from the dealers where I've seen them.  They are however not a patch on the Rangey as a place I'd like to spend a lot of time.

    I'm not clued up on the Zoe, Leaf, and low end stuff so maybe that's where all the dud batteries are, but I doubt it.  I think the industry generally has been pleasantly surprised by how well batteries have maintained performance over their life (predicted as 8+ years), so while there will no doubt be some stories, I shall be very surprised if its many.  It is also true that batteries are improving all the time (the current i3 has about a 30% battery improvement over ours - which is itself 50% better than the original i3 of 2014-2016) so our view of the early cars may be that their batteries are useless, whereas they may in practice still be performing as they originally did.


  2. The obvious thing would be to ask Classicline that question....but I think you may be chasing unicorns here.   Do you know the price you get 15% off?   I have no direct experience of Classicline, but I have of many others over many years and they all seem to work on a random number generator.  You get a discount from many if you're a club member.  I'm a member here which gets discounts from some, Club Lotus which gets discounts from some, and was a member of LDC which got discounts from some.  I don't think any "discounts" have ever been applied after I was given a premium.   And if I ask, then the discount has already been applied (even though I may not have mentioned club membership before.)  Often an "introductory bonus" is more than a club discount and you don't get both.  The only sure way of knowing that you're getting a competitive price is to phone round and play one off against another.  A right pain which they rely on relatively few doing. 

  3. In the order acquired starting with the van I bought off my Dad’s company at the end of 1975.  Many owned at the same time.  Shortest tenure was the GT6 at 6 weeks because a mate notice how it crabbed.  It was a lovely shiny cut and shut job that I quickly sold on to a pair of mechanics.  Longest tenure is the Esprit which is coming up for 30 years in April.  Bold are the ones I still have.

    1972 Ford 8cwt Van

    1971 Triumph GT6

    1972 Ford Capri 3.0 GT XLR

    1970 Mini 1000

    1967 MG Midget

    1974 Mini Clubman 1000

    1976 Lightspeed Magenta

    1975 Triumph Dolomite Sprint

    1978 MG Midget

    1978 Fiat X1/9 1500

    1981 Ford XR3

    1972 Mini 1275 GT

    1986 Ford Escort RS Turbo S1

    1984 VW 1.3 GL

    1987 Peugeot 205 GTi 1.6

    1983 Jeep Renegade 4.2

    1986 Lotus Turbo Esprit

    1987 BMW 320i (E30)

    1991 BMW 320i (E36)

    1991 VW Polo 1.4

    1992 Vauxhall Lotus Carlton (No 808)

    1981 Talbot Sunbeam Lotus S1

    1994 Lotus Elan M100 S2 (No 423)

    2003 Ford F150 Harley Davidson Ltd Edition 5.4 SC

    2002 Range Rover 4.4

    2007 Suzuki Jimny JLX+

    2007 Range Rover 4.2 SC

    2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC AB

    2018 BMW i3 BEV



    1987 Kawasaki KMX 125

    1991 Honda VFR 750 FL

    1996 Honda VTR 1000 Firestorm

    2001 Honda VTR 1000 SP1 RC 51

    • Like 1

  4. Welcome indeed.  Was the Evora bright red by any chance?  Owner Ian May will no doubt be along shortly to prompt you...

    If you want to see more Lotus then you'll have to join a run down to our friends at the SWLC in Tinhay - usually a good turnout for their open day in Sept.

  5. 8 hours ago, Mysterae said:


    You still sound positive about it though, but would you do it again if you knew the final cost!


    Depends if I had enough money (obviously)!  I don't think it would cost me quite as much if I did it again.  There are more players in the market and at least some competition. GSHP design has no doubt moved on a bit.   Its a great heat source for underfloor heating so if I could have UFH throughout the house then I'd have a GSHP if I could.  It is deffo cheaper to run and UFH a nicer heat environment than any other heating I've come across, but equally I suspect it is the most expensive to install by some margin and I'm unlikely to be in any property long enough to realise a payback.  But I'm lucky enough not to have to live my life looking for the cheapest deal.  I don't drive the most economical cars, I don't only buy cheap food, etc. - I realise many others don't have the luxury of those choices.  I think its a better system that costs more.  If I could afford it I'd have it again - but only if it could be done properly.  I wouldn't bother for a radiator system for example.

    • Like 2

  6. No personal experience, just two anecdotal.  Some friends put it in their conservatory but then considered it too expensive to run to use, so just let the conservatory get unusably cold.   Other friends had it in a new en-suite and went on about how expensive it was to run...but I don't know if either of those was real in absolute terms or just different value judgments to what I would have made.  I did a fair bit of research in 2012 and at that time gas was cheapest, then coal, then oil/calor, then wood, and elec was top of the tree at about 4 times the cost of gas for the same heat.

    • Like 1

  7. Hmmmm! I'd expect electric underfloor heating to be THE most expensive type of heating to run bar none.  It obviously has its place - a new room/extension beyond the scope of the current heating, or bathroom refurbs or similar, but not as a generic throughout the house solution.  JIMO...

  8. 18 minutes ago, C8RKH said:

     I'm sorry but 20c plus really is ridiculous!  Why do you need to waste energy heating your house so high?

    For the best nights sleep you need to be looking around 15-17c in the bedroom, 20+ is too high as your body naturally wants to cool during sleep.

    Stick the heating at 18c and wear a jumper. It's not about being tight, I just find it mental that people talk about green heating sources and then use more heat than is actually needed.

    Yet another thing where we're all different Andy.   We tried 18 for a year.  It was OK but a bit too cool for any just sitting activity and visitors felt cold.  We upped it through 19 to 20 and finally settled on 21 three years ago.  At 21 it is kept very evenly between 20 and 21.  It suits my daily uniform of joggers and t-shirt - it'd be too hot in a jumper.  Fran feels the cold much more but is comfortable in "normal" clothing (which means more layers than me!).  Like many old men I need to get up in the night and its lovely to be able to pad about without freezing my gonads off, I don't own any PJs .  We use a summer weight duvet all year and our bodies have no trouble sleeping - its perfect for us.  With a GSHP/Underfloor system a downside (or upside - depending how you look at it) is that its far less controllable than a gas fired radiator system.  If you want to change by a few degrees then you need to allow several hours.  If you try to go from cold/off to normal room temperature then its more like 2 days so its not really suitable to try to control like a normal system which may run for a few hours in the morning and evening and basically get cold during the day and overnight.  Since we're always here it suits our life but may seem more wasteful if the property is often unoccupied.    Others may find cooler would work for them most of the time and maybe a wood burner in the lounge in the evening.  We didn't do it to be green or save money - it just seemed like the best system available to me when I did the research, and we run it to make our lives as comfy as poss.  

    • Like 1

  9. We were a relatively early adopter so things will have changed.  There are some great things about a GSHP set up but its certainly worth thinking about very seriously first. 

    The financial argument, in our experience, doesn't stack up so if your looking at it purely as a way of saving money my expectation is that you will be disappointed and spend more than you save.

    Our costs:  We have a relatively large house, but not exceptional at about 360 sqm.  To provide enough heat for that we were marginal on being able to generate enough heat from the largest GSHP available in 2012 on a single phase supply.  We looked at 3 phase but got a prohibitive quote of well over £10k from Western Power - and that was just for the transformer and didn't cover the 100m dig for new cabling to our house or anything else that we'd have needed to connect up our domestic system.  So we decided to stick to Single phase.  As I said the most powerful pump was marginal so our preferred supplier actually replaced the critical pump  for the brine circuit with a bigger external one.  The initial quote for "everything" was £21k.  Everything turned out to exclude almost everything except the GSHP.  We were advised to site the pump in an outbuilding instead of the house - we're really glad we did because the noise of the pumps all going in unison is disturbingly loud - but the added cost of the 22m of Rehau pipe was over £2k just for the pipe to bridge the run from plant room to the house.   Its a complex electrical setup to power and control all of the elements - electrical works were £2k and they were so poorly done I redid them myself later with better quality components.  The groundworks were £7k to dig the 8x50m long channels 1mx1m and the link back up to an underground manifold housing (think a blockwork box with concrete slab on top) for another £1200 and the 100m run back up to the house.  And then another £500 to get a local farmer in to re-level and reseed to the lower field to put it back to grass - which took about 2 years, but now you'd never know what lies beneath!  So we're over £30k in and we've got some mildly warm water coming into the house.  For various reasons our refurb got out of hand and we eventually needed to rip up and relay the basic slabs that form our ground floor.  (Had we known that at the start obviously we'd have knocked the thing down and started again...but we didn't and that's another story.)  But relaying the slabs was great for sorting the underfloor heating.  I did all of the work on top of the new slab myself so there are no labour charges.  First an eleven layer foil insulation (Triso Sol) £2k; then your choice of pipe base and pipes - ours is a pipe in foam system by Wavin £6k; then you need some pretty substantial plumbing elements like manifolds, circulation pumps, electrical works for zone controls and pumps all well over £3k; then a screed layer £2.7k - So overall about £14k to get heat around the house downstairs.  Upstairs we'd decided on rads.  As Barry suggests low heat through rads can be crap, but with the correct aluminium rads then 45 degree flow water is absolutely fine to keep upstairs a toasty 21 degrees - trouble is they cost lots more than std steel stuff so the radiator bill was £6k plus all the bits for fitting.  So overall our installation cost for the heating system was £56838:68 - and remember that didn't include any labour for any of the elements in the house itself.  Against that we are receiving through the RHI scheme around £3300/annum for 7 years or a total of about £24k.  Since it would have cost no more than £15k to replace the old Calor Gas/Radiator system that the original house had, we quadrupled the budget and even with the RHI paid up will be over £20k worse off financially than we'd would have been. 

    To run the thing efficiently you need to know what your heat pump can manage on its own.  Ours comes in at about 47 degree water on full chat so off the back of that we run the floor system and rads and domestic hot water at 45 degrees.  Sounds odd to those with a more typical 65 degree water flow but its actually plenty hot enough for nearly everything.  We have a 400l HW tank and its fine for everyone even when we have a houseful.  The joy of that is that we only run the Immersions once a week for the anti-legionairs cycle - which is really just getting the HW up to 65 degrees for two hours - which we choose to do overnight Fridays.  Nevertheless our leccy bill is considerable - about £3k year.  On the other hand we have no other domestic fuel costs...

    I'd say the greatest benefit is the underfloor heating element.  The rooms are very even comfortable temperature wise with no hot/cold spots - each has its own zone control to keep it at 21 degrees.  In 2007 we rented a barn with underfloor heating of a gas boiler and found that uncomfortable as the flow temp was too high.  GSHP is the perfect heat source for underfloor heating.  The rads are less successful. they work well enough in themselves, but I only put in one zone for all of the bedrooms and I've found it impossible to get the balancing right.  If I did it again I'd do each room on its own zone.  The system runs all year and costs very little over the summer.  I service it in May - takes an hour or so.   Very few companies out there know much about these systems so you may end up needing to be your own expert if things go a bit awry - so not for the faint hearted!

    In conclusion: I'd certainly have a GSHP based system again as its great to use and benefit from, but its stupidly expensive to install if you do it properly to optimise the inbuilt characteristics so its a definite "upgrade" choice not a bargain! 

    • Thanks 2

  10. 5 hours ago, harrry said:

     I just hope that the all new platform remains relatively compact, particularly in terms of its width. ...


    While I get that, one of the things that got me out of Elise was that basically I don't fit.  Its not all that much better in the Evora.  I'm a bit lardy but not THAT big and only 6 foot.  Elise platform with anyone my size or bigger in the passenger seat and we're rubbing shoulders hard and leaning on the door at the same time.  In the Evora its just the occasional brush if pushing on.  Its nice having my own space in the Esprit and M100 and I don't consider them "big" in the way the RangeRover is.  Its much the same with Plane/Train and many Theartre seats - too narrow and not somewhere I'd ever chose to put myself.  With obesity issues becoming more - er - widespread, it may not be a great idea to discount half the market.

  11. Got  mine on a farm motor policy through a broker (currently from Axa).  I've not got a farm nor a road vehicle on this policy so its a bit left field but its the most appropriate according to the broker.  Also covers a tractor, tracked chipper, RTV and a Ride On bank mower as main policy "vehicles".  None are road registered all used entirely on private land (either at home or wherever I trailer them to) and it covers any attachments that go with them, any driver/operator on my authority, and risks around doing damage with the kit to other people or their property.  Its of the order of £200 per machine per year.  No idea if that's good or not, but I was worried about third party risks and I struggled to find a way to insure all of the stuff littered around outside and this appears to cover all that so I'm happy enough.  Its paid out for a nicked chipper about 10 years ago....and a tractor right off earlier this year so it does have value.

  12. Don't know much - certainly not the Volvo....but have had my own digger for the last 10 years.  They're just immense fun - I will deffo be coming back as a digger driver in the next life.  I'm a Kubota fan so bought one of theirs (KX 36 Alpha) which is a 1.5 tonner that came with 3 buckets and new tracks (Paid £6500 in 2008).  It's been virtually faultless - just had to replace one hydraulic pipe that split.  It was an ex-rental machine so probably not that well treated with about 1800 hours on.  I've done less than 1000 hours so it doesn't get a hard life - and I've had it serviced twice.  I also bought a 6" bucket for doing narrow trenches (pipework, hedgeing, sleeper/post slits, etc as the usual 12" smallest means a lot of backfilling.  Also bought a Log grab - invaluable for moving tree trunks; and a brush cutter for doing the banks sitting down instead of with the hand held on a sling - so much more fun!   Probably still worth £5 to £6k so you idea to buy and then move on should work well as long as you don't have to  do too much maint to keep it working.

    I did some voluntary work nearby and as well as using the Kubota, I got to use a Takeuchi which I would say was better.  It was zero turn (no rear overhang) which saved taking as much care when close to buildings and the bucket could be moved closer to the dozer bar which helped with the last bit of clearing up type digging.  Otherwise it was much the same.  But I think they are significantly more expensive.

    Also got a go in a 14 ton slew when we had the trenches done for our GSHP.   Again the controls were much the same, but everything was just so much smoother, powerful, and stable.  It would cut a perfect 1m wide 1m deep trench in one scoop - just awesome) You'll find with the 1.5 tonner and similar that the ground can fight back and you'll be moved all over the place.   And its not that hard to tip the things over which can be a bit of a pain so you'll need to take care while learning how to use it.  Once you can drag the bucket flat over the surface towards the cab without digging down, you'll have cracked it - much satisfaction to be had.  

    When I did my research (years ago so may have changed), what I found was that the bottom price for a digger was about your budget.  I've found all smallholder plant is stupidly expensive (compared to say a car which is much more complex).  Basically if its working it'll be priced at £5 to £6k.  So this covers everything from only just working at 6000 hours to really surprisingly good at 2000 or less.  So you will need to check it out.  Look at the tracks (splits or little tread - budget to replace);  look at the bushes at each of the knuckles (there's absolutely loads of them as you'll find when going over it with the grease gun.)  That's where the wear is likely to be.   Manually pushing the bucket from side to side will show this wear - there will be some but it shouldn't be "loose".   The engines are all diesel and certainly Kubota are renowned for being bullet proof so should not be cause for concern.  

    Have fun....





    • Like 1

  13. I agree that a £2m car is a bit irrelevant to most of us, but actually disagree that they will inevitably have to sit in a display box or suffer huge depreciation or indeed that the uber rich would bother about it even if they did.  The middle east royals are well known for buying such things in bulk and then just leave them to rot once they loose interest - they're not bothered about resale value.   The McClaren F1(arguably the first hypercar) was driven as a daily by people like Rowan Atkinson and some used hard by people like Nick Mason, but their cars appreciated hugely since they bought them for less than £1m despite putting some miles on them.  IIRC the Atkinson one went for about £8m when he sold despite it being a well known rebuilt right off.  I do hope at least some of them get driven....

  14. Resurrection of thread due to repeated threat.  Received an email from Rob who runs the west area of Club Lotus with the following news:

    I see from this planning application Masterplan below that LOTUS at
    Delamare Road is slated to be redeveloped in to the Cheshunt Lakeside
    Urban Village.
    I have looked at the schematic from the proposal against an aerial view
    of Delamare Road and it appears that the former LOTUS factory will
    disappear under this development.
    Please see the link below:

  15. Yeah, awesome in the wet Justin...apart from the accompanying wet leg.  My proof was at Combe in one of the wet years when I was positively being held up by a 240 cup Exige (videoed!) which would have left me for dead in the dry.  I've always used Goodyear F1s which have worked very well for me, but an old design now so there's probably better.

    • Like 1

  16. It is true that LandRover top (bottom?) the polls - JD Power etc - for reliability.  Stuff does go wrong with more of them than it does for other brands.  But (and its a big Butt!) that's still only about a fifth of them.  If you get one of the other 80% you'll be fine.  Marc says his was a 2002.  That's the first year of L322 production when in BMWs hands and the least reliable.  I also had a 2002 4.4 V8 petrol for 4 years and it was a bit of a mare from time to time - the least reliable car I've ever owned.  I then had a 2007 4.2 V8 Supercharged for five years (when Ford owned and with a Jaguar engine).  It was serviced on schedule but otherwise cost me nothing in fixes as nothing on it went wrong between 60k miles when I bought it and 120k miles when I sold.  Many L322 aficionados reckon the 2007-2009 4.2 SC was the sweetspot of the L322 run.  Since the beginning of 2017 I've run a 2012 5.0 V8 SC Autobiography.  It was one of the final version L322 cars with a slightly different bodykit at the rear and all the toys.   Again bought at 60k miles, now at 97k.  Only problems so far have been the need to replace the deployable (known as deplorable) side steps as they kept sticking and replace the battery (not as easy as for many lesser cars - but hardly a killer blow).   They are wonderful cars and having got used to their capabilities I haven't been able to think of anything better to replace it with.  The BM engine gave about 275BHP the 4.2 SC Jag about 395 and the 5.0 SC just over 500.  For a 2.5 ton barge they're quite quick!  They are also sublime at towing so not sure why Marc advises against a towbar - I wouldn't buy one without.  (or about £1k to have one added).  The 5.0 does have a bit of a timing chain reputation - I've been lucky so far but will probably have it replaced next year as a preventative measure.   Having been in all of the other big SUVs, there are plenty to chose from, many very nice places to be, but none I'd prefer to the Full Fat Rangie.  Unless the satnav is near the top of your priorities as that's pants and the adaptive cruise is a definite retrograde step over the older standard cruise control.

    • Like 1

  17. From previous threads on here I thought we'd established that there was no requirement for Ethanol to be put in premium fuels and that V-Power didn't contain any.  Noticed new E5 signage on my local V-Power pumps today.  Looked on the Shell site but no new info...just a 2 years old generic post about Ethanol and a sentence saying that it may contain up to 5%.  Anyone got any better info?  Is V-Power now polluted with E?

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