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MrD

Full Forum Member (FFM)
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About MrD

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday 18/02/1980

More Info

  • Name
    Yiannis
  • Car
    V6 CUP, Renault Clio R27
  • Modifications
    Alias23 Induction, CF engine covers - too many on the R27 to mention..
  • Location
    London

Recent Profile Visitors

231 profile views
  1. Best macca of the range, only downside is the soundtrack but the car is truly amazing - very well done!
  2. AIM's data logger seems to be a good feature for the TD enthusiast but it is not great for the committed/racer - this is why it falls into the "nice to have" category. The latter group of people would naturally go to vbox. From what I can judge - and I'll stand corrected if I speak non sense - the vast majority buy this mainly for its interface...going "digital" with a plug and play solution. I certainly belong to this category but problem here is that this part (which is the main reason for purchasing I repeat) carries quite a few bugs yet to be ironed out. It'd be interesting to se
  3. Same here to be honest. The current item has too many bugs for my liking, especially when you pay top dollar for it. If the "Road approved" dash is faultless then it'd be a much more promising solution, albeit without the lap timer - hopefully lotus will be offering this option as an upgrade.
  4. Problem is that the price difference (labour and kit Vs moroso unit) is quite substantial, especially when you consider that you'd also have to pay labour for switching the sumps over. If it doesn't leak then why bother?
  5. @Jcx compression changes will not solve the issue you are experiencing but dropping the rebound at the rear a couple of clicks might help. As mentioned above, less of a rebound will make the damper return to its original state quicker, you don't want to drop it much though because it'd start feeling that the rear is only on springs. You are right by saying that stiffening the front resulted to the rear not wanting to rotate easily. Stiffening the front axle removes the grip from there, you end up having more grip at the rear so more difficult to rotate. Same principle for the rear, stiffe
  6. Not wanting to hijack the FE thread but people might find this info useful. Mine is 6 and a half years old and it had the gates changed 2 times, one in 2016 (date was also written on the sump) and one now under my possession. I need to check my records and see which garage did the first change, worth mentioning that the other garages (one was a lotus dealership) didn't bother, maybe because they were concerned of a possible future leak or maybe because the previous owner didn't give the go ahead. I had mine done at Rapid mechanical services and Andy reassured me that if done properly ther
  7. If I understand this correctly, do the rears lose contact with the road when this happens? Maybe this is due to the fact that there is a limited droop travel on these cars? General rule with the rebound is that the more you give, the slower the damper reacts. So in your case you want it to react quicker which means you need to make it "softer" if that makes sense (adjust towards -). That however will not solve anything if there is not enough droop to achieve contact and damper is already fully decompressed. Apologies if I didn't really get what you meant.
  8. IMO, the baffled sump is an upgrade only if you visit the track regularly and you are a quick driver (to warrant the benefits of having one) - otherwise is a pain in the ass. Something I found out after I bought my car was that the rubber gates inside the sump need to be replaced every 2 years. Which means extra labour for dropping the sump (with risk of leaking in the future if not done properly) plus the kit.
  9. AIM dash on the final edition cars looks good and it should be free of any bugs. Clearly they went to the extend of redesigning the skins and linking DPM switch with them which is a very nice touch, however that 9k range is still there. I understand why it was there in the first place but the FE models are not high revving - people keep asking about this, it'd be nice if AIM/Lotus had accommodated this request. It'd be interesting to see whether Lotus will supply this version going forwards or just keep the existing AIM dash for the retro fitters.
  10. Tyre selection is definitely a personal choice and it depends on many variables. I'd personally stay away from the latest AD08 compound as it's not as good as the R (previous one, unless of course you can find the AD08R). CUP2s if the car would see the track and driven mostly on dry days and PS4s if the car is used all through the year. Exceptional wet grip and more than sufficient dry grip for the road. But let's face it, we live in the UK, it rains most of the time:) Drawback is the softer sidewalls, it dilutes the turn in a bit even though it adds to the comfort (is that really a thing we a
  11. Exactly the same experience @Tex including this "whooshing" when the damper is compressed. I won't be removing them myself mainly because I am not confident enough to do so. I'll drop my car to Andy at Rapid Mechanical Services in Romford (he is an exceptional guy and massively helpful) who is more than willing to do it for me and leave the car on axle stands, safely stored in his workshop. I bet - and from my experience in tricky dampers" that these bad boys are low on Nitrogen hence the knocking but either way they have to be done properly. I'm kind of a suspension freak and need
  12. Another fellow RenaultSport owner, nice one! And it seems that you've got one from the end of the run of the best Megane ever made, mk3 that is:) Colour? I don't personally rate the KWs, Clubsports is an overpriced V3 with top mounts, overdamped twin tube setup with a million clicks but no linearity. The fixed damping bilstein inverted monotube dampers that the clio racer cars use have the same service schedule (not sure about the rest of the premium range), unless of course you are racing so in that case you do it annually:)
  13. Haven't yet attempted it on the lotus but I fitted HIDs on my other car. How i attacked it was to buy a set or rubber dust caps like these bad boys so as to leave the oem intact, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2pcs-80mm-HID-LED-Headlight-Car-Dust-Cover-Waterproof-Dustproof-Sealing-Cap-/183687671300?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Various sizes available so I'm guessing it'll be something out there for our cars as well. I cut a round hole and used a rubber wire grommet (not blank) to pass the cables through. When all was in place I sealed it with silicon. It's been like that for years now
  14. @MrP_that sir was a good shout. I did contact Simon this afternoon who sounded like a top bloke who knew his stuff. We spoke at length about it including upgrading to 3 way which makes total sense when rebuilding a 2 way kit, turnaround is 2 weeks and price is exactly the same as Nitron. Apparently he is the only approved Nitron repairer with a dyno, I wouldn't service shocks to anyone without a dyno anyway. I'm definitely leaning towards his direction, again, many thanks for the info. @rmaurerMain thing to remember with these shocks mate is that it's not a fit and forget item. Manufactur
  15. Just a piece of advice for the rubber cap @Jamesbooker1 It'd be a good idea to seal this somehow because you'll start having condensation in the headlight unit (humidity will find its way through)
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