Everything posted by roarf
The stock S1 S flywheel is already pretty light (17 lbs?). Not sure I'd want a lighter one, it revs up and down pretty fast as is. The ECU tuning can have an effect on that as well. I can assure you I'm not ham fisting it, that is not my driving style. I have more mechanical sympathy than most people, maybe too much sometimes. I can try slowing my shifts down, I am already used to that from driving cars w/ heavy dual mass flywheels (E39 M5, B7 RS4). It just seems counterintuitive on a car that revs so freely.
Thank you. I didn't get much feedback on LT, only one person spoke up about doing this. However, these are only present on MY12 and newer Evoras. There is also only one vendor that sells the line to delete it (InoKinetic). Kind of surprised BOE or MWR doesn't sell one. I'd be curious to see one of these clutch dampers cut in half to see what's inside. Is it actually restricting flow, or does it use some sort of diaphragm to dampen pulses/vibration in the clutch fluid, etc. On a BMW, it is restrictive, but it literally is just an inline fitting with an orifice/flow restrictor (a hole much smaller than the ID of the clutch hose). Even so, on my E46 M3 I never had high rpm mis-shift/grinding issues with the delay valve in place. Removing it just helped clutch engagement feel/predictability. You are probably right. It may just be a matter of cable adjustment. Even with the gearbox fluid nice and warm I still get the high rpm grind/mis-shift if I don't slow it down a bit. As I said, my car shifts smoothly the other 95% of the time, but I will definitely have the cable adjustment checked next time I take it in for service.
Who here has deleted their clutch damper/delay valve? Those who have deleted it, what was your reason(s) for doing so and what differences did you notice afterwards? I am considering deleting mine. Based on previous experiences with cars that had them (BMW), it was only a positive thing to remove it. Two main reasons I am now considering this on my Evora. 1) High rpm shifts (at or very close to redline) are often times not smooth. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th in particular (I rarely do this from 1-2). I have missed the 3-4 shift completely a couple of times or even got a slight grind and I know I had the clutch fully depressed when I shifted. Very annoying, slightly dangerous. 2) For the first few shifts into 2nd when the car is completely cold and fluids haven't warmed up yet I have to shift very slowly into 2nd or I get a slight grind. Not uncommon to need to slow it down when the trans in cold in most cars, but I find it a little excessive in this car for some reason. Wondering if the clutch damper exacerbates things when the clutch fluid is still cold. I realize worn engine mounts and poorly adjusted shift cables could be a factor in these issues as well but my car shifts very smoothly 95% of the time and the shifter has a nice positive feel to it, no vagueness. I don't shift at redline that often but when I do I want to know that I'm not going to miss or grind. I am not power shifting or slamming gears here. A reasonably quick, smooth shift is all I'm looking for. The revs drop pretty quick with the lightweight single mass flywheel so I want to match the revs as closely as I can. And yes, my brake/clutch fluid is fresh. I change it once a year with Motul RBF600. Pedal feel is firm and smooth. Never had it get soft in the 2.5 yrs I've owned it. Trans fluid is Redline MTL 75w80, changed 1.5 yrs ago. Any feedback/help is appreciated.