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Tony D

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About Tony D

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday 30/08/1960

More Info

  • Name
    Tony Dakin
  • Car
    Lotus Elite
  • Location
    Northampton

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182 profile views
  1. Been off line less than 24 hours and so much new info. I can't comment yet on match as only got paint late last week. Still doing the prep work, but hope to apply something within the next week or so. For completeness, I'll post a comment when I know, but seems your particular issue has been resolved with good old fashion elbow grease. - good work. Tony
  2. I've just bought a couple of cans of silk red from Nu Agane, based in Bedford. They mix on site to the paint code and a quick call will let them confirm they have the specific formula for the colour you need, but I'm sure they will. Right now, they are giving away a free lacquer for each can of base you buy. Interestingly the lacquer is 2K, but its not got a separate actuator button to initiate the mix. I guess there is some clever chemical reason they can call it 2K, but I guess it must be at least as good as 1K. I ordered on line in the morning, and goods arrived the next day. Very impressed. www.nuagane.co.uk Tony
  3. Mike : Do you have the getrag box though or the original series 1 Maxi based box? Like yours, my series 1 Elite has UJ's both ends, the maxi box and no lead weights. I've never seen one with a mixture. Maybe the lead is some sort of handicap system Tony
  4. Not as satisfying as to design and make your own though. Tony
  5. Messy. And to think I was frustrated in needing to rebuild the bobbin mounts for my front bumper. Nothing by comparison. Couldn't agree more that a replacement panel will be best bet. Should also be stronger in the long run and certainly less work. One the plus side, a lot of the repair is hidden behind the front bumper. Tony
  6. Fix top hinge plate directly to body (no shim). Use as much shim as you have up to 4mm behind bottom hinge. Truth is, there is enough movement on the door shell to get alignment without any shim, but shimming bottom helps keep window frame tight to seal and better clearance as door opens at the A post. Fit the B post striker and fit catch to the beam, then fit beam to car pushing as far forwards as you can before tightening bolts to body. Next, I trial fitted the window frame, aiming for consistent gap of about 10 - 12mm between frame and body aperture without door seal. You use shims behind any combination of the 5 off M6 bolts to set the gap(you'll probably have some places like near top of A post that are less than 10mm even with no shims, but don't worry about this. Now remove window frame, remembering how much and where you had shims. Now remove latch from beam, fit the door shell and replace catch (it's fiddly, but will go in when you find right angle). Use the 4 off M6 bolts to set body alignment. CAREFULLY : When you first close door, watch door leading edge carefully as it passes wing rear edge - it's likely to be VERY close to clashing and chipping paint. Now refit the window frame (with suitable shimming), which I did initially without worrying about the glass (cos you're probably going to repeat all the above steps 3 or 4 times before you feel you are happy with everything. . When you are ready to fit the glass, drop it into the door before putting frame into position. Another fiddly job, but you have to just keep jiggling it around until it goes. Then fit the window motors and pray all is free enough the windows will drive smoothly. It's a fun job - not- but rewarding when it comes together. IIRC, you car is one of the earliest produced. Don't be surprised if when you fit the door shell and it's aligned with the body nicely, there is daylight all along the bottom of the door to the door seal. Both sides on my car had at least 5mm gaps, which I'm convinced must have been like it since the factory build. I built the bottom of my doors up which is covered to some extent on my resto thread on the other site. Good luck, Tony
  7. I'm liking that. Two spoke variant and I'm sure would look great. Tony
  8. Welcome back. Good to know it was only a short term distraction. Some of my "distractions" have run into years of stop time on my car . Tony
  9. Richard is correct about chromadora supplying the original car mirrors. They were fitted to some Fiat's in the mid 70's. Do you know what they look like? I have a pair that are currently not fitted to my Elite. I can post a picture if it helps . I'll be visiting Lotusbit's within the next week or so. I can give them a chase if you wish, although I do recall asking a year or two back if they had them, with the answer NO - very rarely available. What year is your Eclat? It could be you want the later type. Tony
  10. Sam For you to know what it's worth paying, to me, you need to know why you want it. Is it to save it and prevent someone just selling for spares? It certainly seems too good to break with good history, one owner and low mileage. Do you hope to make a few Bob on it? Or do you want a project to keep you busy (and judging from what you say, boy will it keep you busy ). Maybe you think it can be rebuilt then you get some road use from it? You ask the question about time to restore it, which I don't see many have commented on. Impossible question to answer, but if cost was no option and you farm lots of work out (i.e. you act as a project manager and don't get your hands dirty) , I'd say you'll do well to be on the road in less than 6 months - but you'll need deep pockets and spend far more than the cars worth. If you're planning on doing chassis, suspension, electrics, preparing body for paint and full reassembly of all parts, (subbing engine rebuild and paint to others) if you did it in less than 2 years you'd have achieved a miracle in my opinion. There are many restoration threads on the forum of many different models and you won't look far to find ones that run 4, 5 or more years . Which goes full circle to "Why do you want it?" Answer that and you'll know its value to you. Figures around 3 - 5 K are mentioned above, which feels about right to me if you have the time to do the work yourself, just letting others do retrim, engine and paint. Hope my thoughts help in some little way. Tony
  11. Confirmed. Silk Red Metallic, code A73. Jaguar did a Carnival Red in the late 90s which is also very similar.
  12. I've been there. To many jobs running in parallel and far too many small bits lying around to loose or forget where they go.
  13. Just returning to the interior trim, anyone have comparative experience of the Furniture Clinic for leather repair kits? I've got a drivers seat in need of serious attention, but am encouraged by these before and afters. Just need to decide on who's repair materials I go for. Tony
  14. Mike. Could you include me in your WhatsApp group. I'll PM you my mobile number. Usually busy most Sundays, but would like to know your meet ups so I can come along if I can be free. Tony
  15. Sorry. When I view on my tablet it doesn't show location details like the PC does. That changes things just a bit.
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