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Tony D

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About Tony D

  • Birthday 30/08/1960

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  • Name
    Tony Dakin
  • Car
    Early Elite and late Excel
  • Location
    Northampton

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  1. I've just spent a good part of last winter stopping water getting into my Excel. The wiper spindle was a major contributor (just needed a bit of silicon and tightening fully), then the door seals - but not the rubber to door. Water can run into the U that clips to the body, then it tracks through the leather like a sponge. Take the carpets and sound proofing out (you'll be amazed how much water they hold. Then take the door seals off and removed the leather particularly up the B post and along the door bottom edge. If you then refit even the old door seal, you'll probably find a drastic reduction in the leak. Other contributors can be the door electrical cable into the body, the hinge mounting bolts and the speedo cable, but in my experience, these areas are much less significant. Tony
  2. Well done. Good luck for the MOT. Tony
  3. Great colour. With the carbs, cooling and ignition sorted she's ready to use. Trust it and enjoy. Tony
  4. Post back if you don't find one. I might have a spare. I'll check. Tony
  5. It's glued on. Fairly sure the service manual covers some details. I think the earliest cars used the same sorbit material as the quarter lights are stuck in with, but sure many modern adhesives will be just as good. I'd watch out for the right size channel to glue on. I can confirm that on my 74 Elite, the glass is 4.9mm thick. On my 91 Excel it is 4.1mm thick. I hadn't realised until your observations, but this seams like a case of Lotus adding lightness as the years went by. Tony
  6. My Excel suffers this same affliction. Maybe other manufactures just avoid putting a seam in such a vulnerable area. Tony
  7. There should be a ramp on the body and a roller on the wiper. At 'home' position, the wiper rides the ramp and sits below the hatch. It's a crazy design detail, but presumably it works when all set up correctly - but only just. Tony
  8. Any clues how you got them off without breaking the adhesive down? Tony
  9. Yes. Exactly as you describe Pete and a right challenge to remove. I've got 3 screens and tried removing. An odd one came away easily (ish), but most just don't want to move. Someone on this forum made a long thin tank and found a solvent that eventually broke the bond down after soaking. Hopefully they will come back with a reply before I find it in searches. Tony
  10. If you have the cars VIN, Andy Graham at the Lotus archive can tell you about the spec it left the factory. The information they hold on 74 / 75 cars is limited, so IMO, only worth the £50 odd the basic Provenance used to cost (they went all up market and very expensive a year or so ago). Coverdale do carpet sets. I don't believe anyone does tailored seat covers. Looks great in Black though. It'll make you a super car once the trims cleaned up. Enjoy Tony
  11. I'm not aware the factory ever did a black factory finish. I think it is something done by a PO. Tony
  12. Back in my motor bike days, most definitely an impact driver. Cheap as chips and to use it you give it a good whack with a lump hammer 🔨🔨. Very satisfying 😉 Tony
  13. Lovely photo and great colour. Special car. Tony
  14. Now there's an interesting twist. I made mine many years ago but obviously pitched the holes to suit the car. Maybe I need to check how the bushes are seated. I assume the pitch of the lower diff mounts are (should be) the same dimension? Tony
  15. I have a couple of new (still wrapped) pieces, plus the usual selection of others with a few marks and minor scratches. Is the finish identical, such that I'd only need to get the scratched bits redone, or would it be best getting even the new bits redone for consistency.? Before seeing this link, I was going to refit the slightly scratched items, but now I'm having second thoughts. Can't be cheap though, I guess it's like chrome plating - heavy on the labour to get best results. Can anyone share idea of costs? Tony
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