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Tony D

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  1. Mark. In answer. Quite a lot of restoration still needed. Link below takes you to the Excelnet forum where I tend to post most of my progress ( or recently Lack of progress ) Here is one pic of the outside to be going along with. Very interested in the interior trim on your car. It looks very similar to my trim, but mine is not leather and never has been. I do seem to recall the guy I bought it off many years ago though saying it had been re-trimmed, but that would have been before 1985. I've heard before there
  2. Just realised. There isn't a top bolt at the rear edge. It's just a short bar that bears on the top of the beam. What condition is your beam in? Can you twist the door along the axis of the door beam? If you can, you'll never be able to get a compression across the whole door seal. I have exactly this problem at the moment and water flooded in during recent heavy rain.
  3. As Andy says, the window frame can be adjusted independently of the door panel by using washers between the frame mounts and the door beam. There are a couple of bolts that fix the window frame to the door panel, but they are not the main alignment ones. IIRC, the quantity we're reduced around 1978. You can get access to the 5 bolts (M6 so 10mm A/F) holding the frame by removing the inner door card and any local infill panels. Chances are though, the bolts will be seized in the door beam captive nuts and could well shear if you try to remove to add a washer or two. If your area of n
  4. Your cars looking great. And appears to be very original. Certainly door mirrors look original still. Many seem to have been changed over the years. Pictures like that give me an added push for getting my 74 Lagoon Blue Elite back running under its own power. More pictures please.. Tony
  5. Unfortunately in these days of data protection, DVLA will not divulge any previous or current owner details. - - - - - unless the requestor has specific reasons - - - - - - which seems to mean some sort of illegal activity so they can get you (i.e. Parking or traffic violation) . Very frustrating. I was inspired by the success Trunnion 74 had with his history build, but missed the DVLA boat by maybe 6 months. Tony
  6. I've got a tank from a 78 Elite spare. It's the type with the curved steel neck. I have rubbers and the petrol cap tubes all from the same car. In the Midlands. PM me if you're interested. Tony
  7. Elite - Excel : It's generally the same when it comes to things to look out for. Doors - Door beams and window frames. Do the doors open freely? Check the hinge bolt is not rotating in the hinge plates. Lift the B post end of the door when open - Ideally they'll be no free lift, but a couple of mm is not too much of a problem. Anything more and bushes need replacing. Inspect the condition of the beam ( you can only see the last 6" unless you take door cards off). They can rot away to nothing. Try rotating the door along it's length. Any movement at all and the door beam is
  8. So do I. I just did the cutting and shaping. Took it to a pro to lay down the weld.
  9. There's always life in the old tank. Just depends how committed you are to keeping originality. I've just bought this colander back from the dead off a 74 Elite. I essentially fabricated a new inner tank, a snug fit inside the old dead drawn can. In hind sight though, I should have just remade it. Looks like your tank is the later type with a through feed of the heater return. If originality is your wish, the materials to fabricate a new replica that would look identical to the original are all readily available of fleabay or from Car Builder Solutions. The main tank is st
  10. Richard. I'm heading down a very similar route to you, particularly w.r.t. door beams. In fact by comparison to my near side door beam, yours looks positively solid. I knew when I inspected the car whilst buying that besides hinging open, the door 'rotates' along the centre axis of the door beam . I think though my window frame is solid, but I guess I'll soon find out. Good luck with you beam replacement and door rebuild. Tony
  11. Do you need tinted or plain? I have a spare plain screen. Surround trim is partially removed, but I have most if not all of it. Other option wod be Lotus Bit's. Tony
  12. Tony: Good news / Bad news. Good news is I have a LH trim ( in fact I have both sides) as spares, and it ( they ) have no dents. Bad news is that 30 years ago when I started my restoration, I planned on doing bright work and bumpers in body colour, so roughened the surface with maybe 180 grit to get a good key. Ironically I only roughed the Near side, but Off side is quite marked and pitted in any case. There are places around that can re polish and re anodise these trims (in fact there is one local to me in Northampton that I believe some on this forum have used). Could be costl
  13. Yes. Makes sense and you are correct. Will take a look at the roof rail I have and PM you later. Tony
  14. Tony May be able to help out on the roof rail. Definitely not got an A post piece, but if Lotus Bit's have one, I'm only 30 minutes away, so could pick up for you. I'll check out what I can spare and PM you. Tony
  15. That makes sense. I couldn't see how it could be called A/C without a compressor doing at least something. Tony
  16. Was it Rejuvenator Oil you used? 250ml seems a standard size. In your experience, how much of a car could this volume do? Tony
  17. I've got a good few spare trim pieces of what I think is a dark brown Marcasite. Not looked at condition recently, but have been in dry storage for last 30 years so maybe not too bad. I could check exactly what I have if you were interested in thinking about originality. Tony
  18. It's best part of 30 years since I took the engine out of my car and replaced it. New found respect for anyone who's done this removal essentially single handed. One thing I've learnt today is that ideally, you need a hoist with a very long arm (over 30 "). Even with bumper off, it was tricky. Tony
  19. According to Owners Handbook, : "The blue A/C button is for normal full air conditioning, and the green ECON button for operating the air conditioning in economy mode, with less cooling but with a reduced loading on the engine" How it does it, I don't know. Tony
  20. Nice one. And a good plate for a 501. How's the inside looking? More pictures please. Still looks to have the original door mirrors, so maybe it's not been messed with too much. Any idea why the windscreen wipers parked on the drivers side? - Or is it just broken - Or put on wrong and about to wipe the bonnet on first sweep!!!! Unique colour and DVLA web site says it should be Green, so a good sign it could be original. Looking forward to following progress. Might have to call over sometime and take a closer look before you get too into it. I'm only in Northampton. Wha
  21. Lovely colour and looking great. Nice job. Tony
  22. Nice comparison Osku. Rare site to see 2 Excels side by side in Finland. Helsinki area? Nice London route master in the background. Tony
  23. Looking at the state of the nut, I'd go straight for a radial cut through the nut and down into the track rod end also. Will be easy to judge depth so not to go too deep. You'll then have a nice step to hit with a drift to turn the nut away. The combination of heat and shock should show it who's boss. Tony
  24. Another confirmation there is no mesh in the black B post trim on mine either. This trim is retained by rivets to the door reveal at the leading edge ( then the door seal clips over both pieces). At the rear, there's just a blob of black silicon adhesive on each of the legs that return to the main body. I notice from photo's you have two holes at the top where the chrome bezel and model number fit. Very early cars didn't have the badge, but by P reg, pretty sure it would have. Do you have the badges? Might be able to help out if you don't, but not sure which model I have. I think 501, whi
  25. I've got a reflector spare, but not sure if I have the chrome frame. I'll take a look and PM you Tony. Tony
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