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    82 Esprit Turbo
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  1. I changed the red hose on my '82 Turbo ,it is inside the chassis.
  2. A leak down test would pin point a valve problem fairly quick.
  3. The adjustment comes from pressing the brake pedal not pulling the handbrake leaver .
  4. If it is M10 than it should be easy enough to drill out the Esprit clevis arm and re thread to M10
  5. Girling Supervac 50 is a range of servos with slightly different mounting and connecting options. They are all 9" diameter sealed units. The Girling Part No. seam to always start with 7404**** They come in at least two different stud patterns and several different clevis pin attachments . If you look at the picture on the PMN servo you will see were they have added an adapter plate to change the stud pattern from what is probably a Landrover servo. The clevis pin adapter on the Esprit attaches to the Supervac on a 5/16UNF rod, does anybody know what the is thread on ST2878 ? I created this from my own servo
  6. I am also looking for a new servo for my '82 Esprit Turbo. Info I have found so far Lotus No. A075J6080F Girling No. 74049019 superseded by 74049164 It is a Girling Supervac Type 50 9" Fitted also to early Excel and late Eclat '86 UK Ford Capri Lazar 2 lt but with a different connecting rod to the peddle. '83-'89 Land Rover County 110 Non-ABS but with a different stud mounting pattern ( earlier models with 7" servo have same pattern)
  7. The fluid seal between the piston chamber and handbrake lever is under the automatic adjuster, the seal under the lever is more of a dust cover. The kit I got from SJ contained the wrong size seal for this and I haven't been able to source one yet.
  8. I don't know if it is the same on the S2 but my Turbo has a Resistor Cable Pink/White that you will find at the coil.
  9. I think its the same as the 82 Turbo caliper. The Girling number for the caliper carrier is 67320103
  10. Remove the spring and this will allow the lever to move a few mm out of the caliper. It gives a little more space to get the nipple through the hole. Personally I think its better to remove the calipers first. Disconnect the hose first then the 2 sliding pins. Remove the caliper and its easier to remove the cable last.
  11. You say the "thread" is damaged, this is not a thread , its a ratchet. If you insert the piston and turn it 45 degrees it will not go in any further but it will pull straight out. I have found it very hard to get any information on these calipers never mind parts.
  12. Gota stop buying old things, so went from my 1892 house back to my 1982 Esprit at the weekend. Problem appears to be sorted but haven't had a long drive yet. I have updated the diagram I did earlier to show the lost motion which is omitted in the workshop manual , couldn't figure that out for a while. The problem arrears to be the red rubber grease. When assembled with the grease the piston slides through the seal with little or no friction for the seal to retract the piston. I cleaned all the grease off everything and assembled only with brake fluid , I now have a retraction of 0.1mm - 0.15mm and after a few drives around the yard the brakes are not locking. Need to go for a long drive next. One problem I still have is that one of the handbrake seals is leaking slightly. These are the old ones as they were different size to the ones that came in the kit. Has anybody got experience of replacing these seals.
  13. Sorry for delay in update but I have bought an old house which is is even more trouble than the Esprit. I will get back to the Esprit when I need a break from working om the house.
  14. In over 30 years working with classics this is the first time I have used red rubber grease but by all accounts it is totally compatible with Dot4. The reason for choosing to use it this time is that I didn't know how long the calipers would be sitting before being fitted so rather than having brake fluid in air causing corrosion I used the grease which doesn't react with air. I have rebuilt many calipers over the years but this is the first I have done with handbrakes. Fronts are working fine. All rubber hoses are replaced.Heading to the garage now for another look .
  15. As said already opening both bleed nipples does not release the pressure. One test I did was to press the pedal gently to bring out the pistons and than operate the handbrake many times. Pads held and released every time. Only locks when pedal is pressed hard . I measured the pawls on the adjuster With a basic calipers and put them at about 0.6mm apart meaning a max gap between each pad and disc of 0.3mm.
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