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  • Name
    Jim Naylor
  • Car
    Europa S2 / Esprit SE
  • Modifications
    Europa Salv Sacco Modified R17 Gordini X flow Engine + 5 speed Box / Esprit None
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  1. When you get back go to your local tyre fitters and explain your problem. They will probably be prepared to route round in their scrap tyres to find something that fits (they don't need to be the correct width, profile or have tread, just something that fits the arches and holds air). Most likely to just charge a nominal amount for fitting as of course they won't need balancing 😁 More likely with an independent than a big chain, but at the end of the day it's all down to the manager
  2. This is what you should have. The clutch/brake assembly 1 shown is RHD, but the LHD one is essentially the same except handed. The accelerator pedal 2 is RHD, 3 is LHD. The clutch/brake pedals are simply bolted from below with four 1/4 unf bolts into the captive nuts on the pedal bracket. The bolts go through the pre drilled holes in the chassis plate welded to the front T that fits under the front of the footwell and through the similar holes in the shell. The accelerator brackets on the RHD linkage are bolted though holes in the floor of the front luggage compartment. I don't know about
  3. SJ sportscars sell new dashboards and crash pads, but the brackets etc I don't think are available from anyone new. If you can find another owner who will let you copy them then they are not complex otherwise it's scan ebay and hope or try Richard at Europa Engineering who has a bigger stock of S/H parts than anyone He has farmed out the new parts business which is now on a separate website but for S/H you still need to talk to Richard. BTW he is not keen on emails and prefers a phone call.
  4. In typical Lotus fashion the dash is structural and serves many functions. It adds significantly to the overall torsional rigidity of the car. The dash is attached at the top by 4 chromed Philips bolts to the bobbins in the panel under the windscreen. These 4 holes in the dash are lined with metal sleeves for rigidity, most repro dash's don't include the sleeves. There is someone on ebay who sells the sleeves but at a stupid price. The dash is attached from behind through the 2 holes at the bottom with 2 bolts into 2 small L brackets (not shown) to the 2 chassis/body bolts just in front o
  5. A bit more explaination: The L bracket with stiffener 4 above attaches to the studs holding the trim on the bottom of the dash. The special U bracket on the steering column 3 (not numbered separately) attaches to holes in the L bracket 4. That's it. Other than the flexible coupling to the rack there are no other column fixings. A bit more detail of the U bracket (It's triumph spitfire/herald/vitesse/gt6) parts 56, 57 & 58
  6. The big question is why would you want to? 25D and 45D distributors physically fit in the same hole with the same drive. But finding a 45D with the same advance curve as the Europa Special curve would be very difficult I should think. There are literally hundreds of different curves fitted to both distributors. Aldon Automotive could build you a 45D with the correct curve, but they are not cheap and what's the point if your standard distributor is working ok. If you just want electronic ignition then modules are equally available to fit
  7. They don't seem to be a simple resister as they drop voltage in addition to providing resistance. (12v down to 8v). But I think a ballast resister from any car that does that should be ok eg:
  8. Sounds like no power is getting to the alarm. The internal battery will be dud by now anyway unless it's been changed (very unlikely). Check the fuse it may be blown or given how long it stood the fuse contacts may be corroded, could also be corrosion elsewhere. Try starting it with a door open, to turn on the interior light. I found on mine (a similar but earlier alarm) when I had a problem with the main power feed, power back feeds from the courtesy lamp circuit !
  9. The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs report on antifreeze in engines has sadly now been hidden behind a members only wall but a copy of it is here:
  10. To be 100% confident, yes it would obviously be best to have the twin oil coolers, but to fit them there is more needed than just the SE bumper, all the ducting is different including the rad duct and obviously you would also need the chargecooler rad, plumbing, etc. So not cheap unless it all comes with the engine. Not sure there is space for the single oil cooler after all that lot is fitted. IF you are not going to plumb in the charge cooler, to avoid all the changes to the front end, then obviously power will be down and oil cooling less of an issue. Modern synthetic oils are also mor
  11. Even if it's not been in a shunt something very funny has happened to your left front. Under most load conditions the top wishbone arms are in compression, so as bushes wear/deform, the top of the vertical link moves inwards. The bottom arms are in tension, so as bushes wear/deform, the bottom of the vertical link moves outwards. Either/both of these increase -ve camber. To get positive camber either the top wishbone has got longer, which is very difficult to do with a fixed length wishbone! or the bottom arm has got shorter which is easily done if it is bent. It doesn't have to be i
  12. Someone more expert than me will probably be along soon to give a better opinion, but for what it's worth here is mine. Caster is far less than optimum and that will make tramlining worse. The figures I have for the low wing SE are 1 deg caster, you have almost zero. In fact they have adjusted it -ve on the right wheel which is terrible. Toe is way too much at 4mm, should be max 1.9mm overall. But to me the most worrying is the +ve camber on the left wheel. That indicates damage, wear on bushes normally gives more -ve not less. I suspect a bent bottom arm. Certainly the fro
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