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NG5

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  • Name
    Jim Naylor
  • Car
    Europa S2 / Esprit SE
  • Modifications
    Europa Salv Sacco Modified R17 Gordini X flow Engine + 5 speed Box / Esprit None
  • Location
    Bedfordshire

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  1. BTW it's easy to test for ethanol, if you have a long thin clear container that you can seal, something like a test tube is ideal. Pour in a cm or so of water, mark the level on the tube. Add about 10 times the amount of fuel. Seal the tube and shake well. Leave a few hours to settle so the fuel and water separate out. If you still have the same quantity of water it's ethanol free, if you have less water than you started with, it contains ethanol. If you can't wait that long then various instant testing kits are available at a price, such as https://contest.techbriefs.com/2017/entries/sustainable-technologies/7655
  2. Sorry to say, but both Tesco momentum 99 and Shell Vmax normally contain Ethanol. In the UK the only Fuel guaranteed Ethanol free is Esso Synergy 99 as confirmed by their website and regular correspondence. "Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). BP refuse to confirm that any their fuel is ethanol free, but regular testing seems to show that their supply is much the same as Esso, i.e. ethanol free except Devon, Cornwall etc. All other major fuel suppliers put Ethanol in both their regular and super petrol. Some very small brands are often ethanol free such as Murco, but even they no longer guarantee it, so you need to test each batch if you want to be certain. These days Vmax is very weird petrol, some of the additives seem to evaporate very quickly giving high octane when fresh but significantly lower after a couple of weeks. E5 or E10 labels only indicate up to 5% or 10% ethanol, so even if ethanol free it is currently labeled E5. As no refinery in the UK currently is geared up for producing E10, I'd bet that even when the E10 switch comes that for many months or even years even though it will say E10 on the label it will be E5 coming out of the nozzle!
  3. £8800 sounds about right in 1994. 1994 was close to the bottom of the market for europa values. My S2 which I bought for just under £2000 in 1980 was only worth about £4k in 1994. Even in the early 2000's concourse Specials were still under £20k. Prices have risen a lot since 2010. Europas were not valued much for a long time, even now they are a bargain compared to many cars of that era, even ford capri's which were a fraction of the price new go for more than europas at the moment. Price definitely is set by fashion. At the other end of the scale you could but a Ferrari Dino in 1980 from about £2300 (looked at the time I bought my europa but they were just out of my price range), price now.... £300k and up.
  4. Here is one where the price is anything but soaring. If the description is accurate someone has themselves a bargain. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12026629
  5. Water washing apparently reduces octane and makes the fuel more corrosive. This from Mike B on flyer forum who is a fuel chemist.
  6. The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs take on E10 and other fuel issues. https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/fuels
  7. I've been researching this on and off for the last few years because of the various vehicles I have and these are my current conclusions for what it's worth. Firstly the more aggressive nature of E10 fuel attacking seals, hoses and to a lesser extent brass components. Old seals, hoses etc. designed for leaded petrol will probably fail faster with E10 than E5 but most replacement seals and hoses are already ethanol resistant so only really an issue if still using very old ones and/or they may need replacing more often. Ethanol also attacks brass/bronze but very slowly, in practice this is probably not a significant issue. Secondly the way the fuel burns. Ethanol burns hotter than petrol, producing more power, but is significantly less fuel efficient so needs more fuel. The two tend to cancel each other out in practical terms so mpg actually doesn't alter much. But the more ethanol in the fuel, the richer the mixture needs to be. The effect with E5 is minimal but at E10 and above unless the mixture is modified the engine will run lean with the potential for damage. In cars with an ECU that monitors and adjusts the fueling situation this isn't an issue as it happens automatically (for the Esprit that means the SE or later which matches the table above). But carb cars should have their jetting modified. I doubt that's any more complex than going up one or two sizes on the main jets. Ignition timing might need slight adjustment also. Plenty of countries have been running E10 for years with few problems, and those that have had problems seem to have found solutions. Some countries run even higher levels of ethanol. I've not heard of anybody having to stop using their car because of it. So my take on it is that it's something to be aware of but nothing to be too worried about.
  8. Not all Aluminium adhesive tape is electrically conductive through the adhesive, some are some aren't. Unless it says on the label you need to check it's conductive by sticking 2 bits together and checking they conduct across the join. It's really useful stuff to have in the toolbox though, loads of unexpected uses when it's to hand.
  9. @James.007 I'm as interested as you to find out as I was trying to source the steering lock. After much searching of forums and the general internet I found no definite answer, a few guesses based on not a lot and almost certainly wrong, along with a lot of don't knows. My best guess, based mainly on the steering lock key pattern and looking at lots of photos, is that it's from a Vauxhall Firenza. Which seems in keeping with Lotus as they seem to often use parts from less common models presumably because they are cheaper. The Firenza used a very similar column to the Vauxhall Viva and Magnum, but a different steering column lock. Unfortunately I've not been able lay my hands on one to confirm my guess. I suspect that Firenza's are rarer than Esprits now. Of course my guess could easily be as wrong as the others.
  10. I replaced my drivers side mirror which had cracked a few months ago with the ebay ones. Absolutely fine, same size as the originals and a good fit. Mine were heated, the heating element pattern was different on the ebay ones, but actually looked superior with a denser array of heating elements. The connection spades were firmly attached to the rear of the mirror rather than being on short leads as the originals, but no issue connecting to the wires from the car. I checked it heated, which it did, but I've never had to use the heated function in anger so don't know the effectiveness. Overall I was very satisfied.
  11. Just came across this virtual Esprit jigsaw puzzle. https://www.jigidi.com/solve/1jdr62sa/lotus-esprit-1986/ It amused me anyway.
  12. I tend to agree with @Andyww that it sounds like it may be vaporisation. That's reasonably cheap and easy to check. If you temporarily replace one of the carb hoses with a clear plastic fuel hose (temp because clear plastic hoses are awful long term). If vaporisation is occurring you will be able to see the vapour bubbles in the clear fuel line.
  13. Is this for real? https://www.quickandbig.com/lotus-esprit-turbo-se £39K for a 74k miles SE !!! Soaring indeed....... if it sells at that price.
  14. One other issue I've just remembered. It's possible sometimes not to seat the drive cable properly into to drive or instrument when attaching the cable. (quite common on old mini's where access to either end is difficult) You would think 1/4 turn of the cable in use and it would seat, but it never seems to, just drives using end friction. The inner compresses into slack space in the outer and binds causing bouncing
  15. Almost all car speedo cable outers since the 1970's have been nylon lined. I've not cut an Esprit one in two to check, but there is no reason to assume it's unlined. (Motorbike ones are often unlined) Nylon lined cables should never be greased. The grease swells the nylon causing binding. I don't know about the effect of a dry graphite lubricant, but the cables are designed to operate dry. The second effect of grease on a cable is that it can work it's way into the speedo which can damage the speedo. With heavy use or tight bends the nylon liner can wear through in places which also causes binding. So it's never a good idea to put a new inner in an old outer even if it works ok to start with, it won't have the life of a new inner in a new outer. The most likely cause of a bouncing needle is too tight a bend in the route of the cable, and the longer the cable the less tolerant of tight bends the inner cable is. It winds itself up and then releases. It's always worth checking your full cable route and making sure all bends are as big a radius as possible. Bouncing most of the time is caused by the cable. Occasionally you get damage to the drive gear teeth which then slip causing bouncing, but if the teeth look ok they usually are. If the gauge becomes stiff (usually because of grease contamination) that can cause the cable to wind up causing bouncing, normally the cable doesn't last long if that's the case. It's easy to check the speedo with it out. Use a match stick or similar to turn the speedo with your fingers. It should be smooth and almost effortless. Speedograph Richfield http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/ repair Smiths Speedos and instruments at a very competitive price. I don't know if they do VDO ones though. They also repair speedo angle drives. I've used them a few times with excellent results. Speedos don't bounce for no reason. It's got to be the drive, cable or instrument, there is nothing else.
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