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Everything posted by NG5

  1. After reading this thread and the motorola thread in parts cross reference, I thought I had one of the sharp radio cassettes in my garage. Sadly, it seems that it was one that I threw away earlier this year, but I did find these 2 period radios and a graphics equalizer. If they are any use to anyone here for that period effect, then they are yours for free. They were all working when removed, but that was many, many moons ago as the dust suggests and I've not tested them, so I have no idea if they still work. If not, then the bin it is.
  2. SJ sell them. SJ are always worth checking 1st for any parts, they have most parts and most have photos to compare with your existing part. You might look elsewhere or ask advice after, but it gives you a start
  3. As GB famously said himself "I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."
  4. Actually just noticed that is for the US stromberg carbs so not generally applicable. I don't have a UK carb spec handbook, but someone must. What does it say?
  5. Anybody thought about using the Lotus recommended technique? 😎 From the S1 owners manual: STARTING PROCEDURE USE ONLY UNLEADED GASOLINE Starting engine when extremely cold (to -20° C) Pull out the choke control fully. Operate the starter. Depress the accelerator pedal and increase the engine speed to 2,000 r.p.m. for five minutes, to raise the-engine coolant temperature and provide adequate defrost performance from the heater. Push in the choke control progressively during warm,up. Starting engine when cold Pull out choke control all the way. Operate the starter. After the engine starts, push in the choke control progressively to maintain 1000 rpm. Return choke fully as engine reaches operating temperature. Starting engine when warm Operate the starter without moving the accelerator pedal. If the engine does not start. press the accelerator pedal riqht down, operate the starter, and lift the pedal Immediately the engine starts. Pumping the accelerator pedal will not aid starting:.
  6. Am I missing something or what's wrong with the ones that SJ sell?
  7. Rambo, Quite a lot of Scotland is actually ethanol free as much of scotland is exempt from using ethanol under the rural fuel duty relief (it will still be labeled E5 or E10 though) This the list of location where the Rural Fuel Duty Relief Scheme operates Inner and Outer Hebrides Northern Isles Islands in the Clyde Isles of Scilly post town of Hawes (Northern Yorkshire) post code districts in: England β€” EX35, LA17, NE48 Scotland β€” IV14, IV21, IV22, IV26, IV27, IV54, KW12, PA38, PA80, PH19, PH23, PH36, PH41 There is a very long detailed thread on this on the Flyer aviation forum because quite a few aircraft operate on normal pump fuel and failure in the air is a bit more serious.
  8. Vulcan Grey previously uploaded a table from Lotus on fuel compatibility. Sadly the link to the Lotus website quoted is now dead, but here is the original post. Essentially if its a v8 or injected 4 cyl E10 is fine, if it's on carbs it's not. Sa
  9. I don't know specifically about the veglia taco, I've never even seen one in bits. But if it isn't mechanical such as the needle hitting the glass then it sounds very much like either a broken track on the circuit board or a broken solder joint to one of the components, a common problem for boards of that age. At one temperature the break touches and everything is ok, as the board/component temp changes the break opens up and it ceases to work. Fixing is easy*, requiring just a dab of solder on the offending part. Unfortunatey finding the break can be VERY difficult particularly if it's ok cold. Essentially you need to somehow get the board into it's non working condition then meter out the tracks and joints to find the break. *if the failure is on a surface mount chip (fortunately quite rare in the 70's, so I doubt the S1 tacho has any) fixing is anything but easy, the pins on a surface mount chip are machine soldered on original assembly are so small and close together that you need a very skilled person to do the soldering. Such people do exist but they are rare (and tend to be young, as good eyesight and hand eye coordination is essential). Not sure the above helps much.
  10. Thanks for the correction Rick, yes NG3. Checked the rest of the post and the rest is OK Note to self, don't post late at night or when the worse for wear. πŸ˜–
  11. I was thinking about the tray. The duct in front of the rad tray is different SE and S4, can't remember now how it is removed on the SE, don't remember it being simple, nothing was!
  12. Yes, on the SE you need to disconnect the oil coolers and move them out of the way to drop the rad duct...... good luck with that as the cooler connections are probably corroded solid. (ask me how I know) The S4 arrangement is far more sensible
  13. That doesn't say much for whoever did the previous services... 😎
  14. Just remembered the speedo drive gear will also need shortening and slotting so that the lotus right angle 2:1 reduction drive and cable can be used, just copy the 336 one. There are 2 different speedo drive gears on the 395 box, the one fitted to the renault 17 is just about perfect if using 185/70 13 tyres, but if using the one fitted to the renault 18 or using a different diameter tyre the speedo will need recalibrating. Clarity on engine power. The common 130ish hp zetec will be fine but the 170hp version from the ST is getting close to the 180ish limit of the 395, particularly as modern din horses are more powerful than the old sae horses which were quoted when renault sport were putting 180hp through these boxes. If you plan on tuning over 170hp, I'd look for a UN3. (btw I suffered brain fade in my earlier post when i mentioned the UN1 box, I meant UN3)
  15. It's certainly a suitable box, and a 395 is what I have fitted, but not to a Zetec. As a minimum you will need: Twin cam bell housing (99% certain the TC bell housing fits the zetec but check before spending any money, they do fit the 395 box) Custom gearbox mounts. I welded tubes through the chassis rear hoop to match lotus 5 speed metalastic mounts, then custom brackets on to the bolts joining the rear cover to the main case. The 395 is the only 5 speed which clears (just) the S2 rear hoop with 'horns' removed. All the others foul it so need a modified rear hoop. This for me was the most difficult bit as it affects the rear suspension geometry it has to be right. I measured the original box in place over and over again for height, alignment, drive shaft location etc, etc. before modifying anything. The mounts take suspension loads so need to be strong! Modify the gear selector lever and make/modify the selector linkage. As the selector on the 395 is similar to the original 336 it's not that difficult. If using the S2 drive shafts as the top link of the suspension, swap the sun wheels/output shafts for the original 336 ones. The suspension bracket from the 336 bolts on fine for the bottom links. Decide on what to do about a 1st/2nd and reverse selector and then make it. The 395 and I think all the other 5 speed boxes are the same, neutral is 3rd/4th spring loaded to 5th (no problem) and spring loaded to 1st/2nd but the same spring is also used for reverse meaning there is no clear 1st/2nd 'gate'. Renaults use a fence at 1st/2nd and lift up for reverse, I considered this and should be possible with a modified gear lever. Many people use a simple hinged flap next to the gear lever that stops it going into reverse, hinge the flap away to get reverse. Effective and fine for a racer, but not elegant on a road car. I came up with a way of adding an extra spring on the selector x shaft that only operates when selecting reverse so it's light spring 1st/2nd and then heavy spring for reverse. If you get that far and are interested I can give you the details. I think that's about it. The above is from memory so could easily have forgotten something. Most of the above you would have to do for any 5 speed box, if not more. Don't forget the Zetec fouls the standard S2 chassis. Hope it works out well what ever you go for.
  16. William, sorry missed your original question about transaxle strength. Rick is totally correct, the original 336 gearbox fitted to the S1, S2 and early twincams is not very strong and can take a max of only about 120hp. The weak point is the lotus unique 32 tooth crownwheel (mind you the 34 tooth crownwheel fitted to Renaults is even weaker) and the lotus crownwheels are rare as hens teeth so you don't want to break one. The later 352 (4 speed), 365 (5 speed ) fitted to the TC/Special along with the 395 (5 speed) all originally fitted to Renault 15, 17 & 18 are good for 180 hp. These are all essentially the same basic box with many common parts. The weak point is the input shaft. Mind you if you are putting a lot of power through the 352 or 395 it wears the diff pin and planet wheels fairly quickly as they only have a single pin and 2 planet wheels. The 365 lasts a lot longer as they have a X pin and 4 planet wheels spreading the load, but it's a wear issue rather than breaking. Any of these 3 boxes can be used with the S2 drive shafts simply by swapping the sun wheels/output shafts with the original 336 ones, the sun wheel gears are identical. The S2 drive shafts are certainly good for over 150hp but to do so MUST be used with top quality UJ's. Problems with the drive shafts S2 or TC have far more to do with the quality of the UJ than the size. The S2 bell housing will not work with any of these 3 boxes as the crownwheel fouls the casting. The R15, 17 or 18 bell housing or a custom bell housing needs to be used. Over 180hp and you need to go to the later UN1 boxes fitted to the later Fuego, these are good for well over 200hp. They do need more mods to fit, particularly if you still want to use the drive shafts as the suspension top link. But it can be done. Have fun! lots and lots of options.
  17. Assuming he already has his own insurance on his own car then it depends how brave and trusting you are. With most companies he can add driving other cars benefit to his own insurance (if he doesn't already have it on the policy). This legally entitles him to drive any car with the owners permission. The down side is that only gives traffic act cover, so while damage to others is covered, your pride and joy isn't. So any damage to your car is down to him (or you!). The upside is that it's his insurance, so any incident does not affect your own insurance. Are you feeling lucky? 😁
  18. Sounds terrible 😱 Does this only apply to Denmark registered cars or if there are on street checks does it apply to visitors also?
  19. Seems to be having another try to sell the Sport 300, Silverstone auctions this time. It will be interesting to see how high it goes this time. No photos of the underside this time ......
  20. I have to agree with Steve, it's certainly capable of being restored. But even with the current price of S1's it's unlikely to be economic unless someone can do almost all the body restoration work themselves. That is many, many, many hours of bodywork. Would be nice though, for it go to a good home and see it saved.
  21. Don't know if it's exactly the same but these look very similar
  22. The small print on the face should say RVI or RVC. Failing that the RVI has the white ign wire wrapped round the coil as can be seen clearly on the vid. The RVC doesn't. Not best qualified to advise if you need to convert to RVC but essentialy my understanding is RVC works with just about everything but RVI was essentially for points and may or may not work with other inputs. Hope that helps.
  23. Just seen this on the autobulbs direct website for what it's worth. Brexit 2021 Update Please note that since January 2021, the MOT Inspection manual has been updated to include LED bulbs. Section 4.1.4 now states the following: β€œExisting halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.” This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights. There are no mentions to fail other LED bulbs such as brake lights, tail lights or reversing lights.
  24. Excellent video here on dismantling. It's one of a series on converting a smiths inpulse rvi tacho to a more modern rvc using spiyda's own board. Removing the needle about 1min in. I've done this on my europa tacho to get rid of the constantly waving needle that you get on old rvi tacho's and it worked well.
  25. Andy, That's really interesting. I've never seen a solid TC seat but as it's only visible with the seat out, in reality I probably haven't seen that many. After over 40 years messing with Europas still learning things. Wonder if they went solid on later cars? I must admit I always thought the webbing a waste of time as it starts to sag quite quickley.
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