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NG5

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Everything posted by NG5

  1. Try contacting a radiator repair shop, most (at least in the UK) also do AC. They should be able to make you a custom one at a reasonable price. They normally only do the cores so you might have to supply suitable ends from a s/h condenser (ebay). It's only the height of the ends that matters as the cores can be made any width. You could be lucky and they have some suitable ends lying around or able to modify, if not they should be able to say which common cars have the size of end that you want. To be efficient condenser cores differ for different AC gasses, so I doubt an oil cooler would work well.
  2. Before you regrind what are the actual bearing clearances? The clearances in the manual on a newly reground crank are 0.0005 to 0.0022 in (0.013 to 0.056mm) that's 0.0017 between limits. Are you 100% sure it's out of spec. Different manufacturers use different bearing materials but it's difficult to believe that bearing halves from differing manufacturers would cause any real issues and some manufacturers do use different materials for the 2 halves because of the differing load (I think King do). Having said that the bearing cost is such a tiny part of an engine rebuild cost, if you have any doubts get a different set. (Every set I have ever had for any engine have come wrapped as one in box, and since about 1980 the bearings have been shrink wrapped in plastic as a single set, always with only one manufacturers name)
  3. This is getting quite old now but a very interesting read with surprising info on piston rings and gaps. http://institutiondiagnosticengineers.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Ring-Gaps-vs-Knowledge-Gaps.pdf
  4. The interior shots of V8 GT up for sale at the moment has good photos of a Pioneer flip up unit fitted. https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1998-lotus-esprit-v8-gt
  5. There are quite a lot on the market now, as most with a decent screen will also have Apple Car Play/Android Auto if you google Single Din Android Auto loads come up. But all with a decent screen will obscure some knobs or switches on the dash. The flip up ones at least you can flip away to access the switches and will almost certainly fit a v8 (but not the earlier cars as they foul the binnacle). The others come permanently covering the area above the radio slot, or below the slot or an adjustable fit can can go anywhere between but I think even with the adjustable ones finding a position that allows access to the switches and A/C knobs will be difficult. As for aesthetics..... I've ended up fitting one of these: https://uk.jvc.com/car-entertainment/bluetooth/KD-X561DBT/ The screen for reverse is small but just about ok when you really need it. Although you can connect your phone with Bluetooth and do music, phone calls etc it hasn't car play or android auto. Everything else is excellent and the dab radio even though using an adapter onto the std telescopic aerial picks up more stations than my daily driver that has dab as standard. I didn't think the price was bad either. Fitting a reverse camera to it (under £10 from ebay) was easy. The hardest part was routing the cable from outside the car into the inside which needed a hole drilling.
  6. Still plenty places selling the stock off and at lower prices because it's no longer current. Just bought 3l from here no problem, took a few days for delivery. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/castrol/9037884
  7. BTW it's easy to test for ethanol, if you have a long thin clear container that you can seal, something like a test tube is ideal. Pour in a cm or so of water, mark the level on the tube. Add about 10 times the amount of fuel. Seal the tube and shake well. Leave a few hours to settle so the fuel and water separate out. If you still have the same quantity of water it's ethanol free, if you have less water than you started with, it contains ethanol. If you can't wait that long then various instant testing kits are available at a price, such as https://contest.techbriefs.com/2017/entries/sustainable-technologies/7655
  8. Sorry to say, but both Tesco momentum 99 and Shell Vmax normally contain Ethanol. In the UK the only Fuel guaranteed Ethanol free is Esso Synergy 99 as confirmed by their website and regular correspondence. "Although our pumps have E5 labels on them, our Synergy Supreme+ 99 is actually ethanol free (except, due to technical supply reasons, in Devon, Cornwall, North Wales, North England and Scotland). BP refuse to confirm that any their fuel is ethanol free, but regular testing seems to show that their supply is much the same as Esso, i.e. ethanol free except Devon, Cornwall etc. All other major fuel suppliers put Ethanol in both their regular and super petrol. Some very small brands are often ethanol free such as Murco, but even they no longer guarantee it, so you need to test each batch if you want to be certain. These days Vmax is very weird petrol, some of the additives seem to evaporate very quickly giving high octane when fresh but significantly lower after a couple of weeks. E5 or E10 labels only indicate up to 5% or 10% ethanol, so even if ethanol free it is currently labeled E5. As no refinery in the UK currently is geared up for producing E10, I'd bet that even when the E10 switch comes that for many months or even years even though it will say E10 on the label it will be E5 coming out of the nozzle!
  9. £8800 sounds about right in 1994. 1994 was close to the bottom of the market for europa values. My S2 which I bought for just under £2000 in 1980 was only worth about £4k in 1994. Even in the early 2000's concourse Specials were still under £20k. Prices have risen a lot since 2010. Europas were not valued much for a long time, even now they are a bargain compared to many cars of that era, even ford capri's which were a fraction of the price new go for more than europas at the moment. Price definitely is set by fashion. At the other end of the scale you could but a Ferrari Dino in 1980 from about £2300 (looked at the time I bought my europa but they were just out of my price range), price now.... £300k and up.
  10. Here is one where the price is anything but soaring. If the description is accurate someone has themselves a bargain. https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/12026629
  11. Water washing apparently reduces octane and makes the fuel more corrosive. This from Mike B on flyer forum who is a fuel chemist.
  12. The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs take on E10 and other fuel issues. https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/fuels
  13. I've been researching this on and off for the last few years because of the various vehicles I have and these are my current conclusions for what it's worth. Firstly the more aggressive nature of E10 fuel attacking seals, hoses and to a lesser extent brass components. Old seals, hoses etc. designed for leaded petrol will probably fail faster with E10 than E5 but most replacement seals and hoses are already ethanol resistant so only really an issue if still using very old ones and/or they may need replacing more often. Ethanol also attacks brass/bronze but very slowly, in practice this is probably not a significant issue. Secondly the way the fuel burns. Ethanol burns hotter than petrol, producing more power, but is significantly less fuel efficient so needs more fuel. The two tend to cancel each other out in practical terms so mpg actually doesn't alter much. But the more ethanol in the fuel, the richer the mixture needs to be. The effect with E5 is minimal but at E10 and above unless the mixture is modified the engine will run lean with the potential for damage. In cars with an ECU that monitors and adjusts the fueling situation this isn't an issue as it happens automatically (for the Esprit that means the SE or later which matches the table above). But carb cars should have their jetting modified. I doubt that's any more complex than going up one or two sizes on the main jets. Ignition timing might need slight adjustment also. Plenty of countries have been running E10 for years with few problems, and those that have had problems seem to have found solutions. Some countries run even higher levels of ethanol. I've not heard of anybody having to stop using their car because of it. So my take on it is that it's something to be aware of but nothing to be too worried about.
  14. Not all Aluminium adhesive tape is electrically conductive through the adhesive, some are some aren't. Unless it says on the label you need to check it's conductive by sticking 2 bits together and checking they conduct across the join. It's really useful stuff to have in the toolbox though, loads of unexpected uses when it's to hand.
  15. @James.007 I'm as interested as you to find out as I was trying to source the steering lock. After much searching of forums and the general internet I found no definite answer, a few guesses based on not a lot and almost certainly wrong, along with a lot of don't knows. My best guess, based mainly on the steering lock key pattern and looking at lots of photos, is that it's from a Vauxhall Firenza. Which seems in keeping with Lotus as they seem to often use parts from less common models presumably because they are cheaper. The Firenza used a very similar column to the Vauxhall Viva and Magnum, but a different steering column lock. Unfortunately I've not been able lay my hands on one to confirm my guess. I suspect that Firenza's are rarer than Esprits now. Of course my guess could easily be as wrong as the others.
  16. I replaced my drivers side mirror which had cracked a few months ago with the ebay ones. Absolutely fine, same size as the originals and a good fit. Mine were heated, the heating element pattern was different on the ebay ones, but actually looked superior with a denser array of heating elements. The connection spades were firmly attached to the rear of the mirror rather than being on short leads as the originals, but no issue connecting to the wires from the car. I checked it heated, which it did, but I've never had to use the heated function in anger so don't know the effectiveness. Overall I was very satisfied.
  17. Just came across this virtual Esprit jigsaw puzzle. https://www.jigidi.com/solve/1jdr62sa/lotus-esprit-1986/ It amused me anyway.
  18. I tend to agree with @Andyww that it sounds like it may be vaporisation. That's reasonably cheap and easy to check. If you temporarily replace one of the carb hoses with a clear plastic fuel hose (temp because clear plastic hoses are awful long term). If vaporisation is occurring you will be able to see the vapour bubbles in the clear fuel line.
  19. Is this for real? https://www.quickandbig.com/lotus-esprit-turbo-se £39K for a 74k miles SE !!! Soaring indeed....... if it sells at that price.
  20. One other issue I've just remembered. It's possible sometimes not to seat the drive cable properly into to drive or instrument when attaching the cable. (quite common on old mini's where access to either end is difficult) You would think 1/4 turn of the cable in use and it would seat, but it never seems to, just drives using end friction. The inner compresses into slack space in the outer and binds causing bouncing
  21. Almost all car speedo cable outers since the 1970's have been nylon lined. I've not cut an Esprit one in two to check, but there is no reason to assume it's unlined. (Motorbike ones are often unlined) Nylon lined cables should never be greased. The grease swells the nylon causing binding. I don't know about the effect of a dry graphite lubricant, but the cables are designed to operate dry. The second effect of grease on a cable is that it can work it's way into the speedo which can damage the speedo. With heavy use or tight bends the nylon liner can wear through in places which also causes binding. So it's never a good idea to put a new inner in an old outer even if it works ok to start with, it won't have the life of a new inner in a new outer. The most likely cause of a bouncing needle is too tight a bend in the route of the cable, and the longer the cable the less tolerant of tight bends the inner cable is. It winds itself up and then releases. It's always worth checking your full cable route and making sure all bends are as big a radius as possible. Bouncing most of the time is caused by the cable. Occasionally you get damage to the drive gear teeth which then slip causing bouncing, but if the teeth look ok they usually are. If the gauge becomes stiff (usually because of grease contamination) that can cause the cable to wind up causing bouncing, normally the cable doesn't last long if that's the case. It's easy to check the speedo with it out. Use a match stick or similar to turn the speedo with your fingers. It should be smooth and almost effortless. Speedograph Richfield http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/ repair Smiths Speedos and instruments at a very competitive price. I don't know if they do VDO ones though. They also repair speedo angle drives. I've used them a few times with excellent results. Speedos don't bounce for no reason. It's got to be the drive, cable or instrument, there is nothing else.
  22. When you get back go to your local tyre fitters and explain your problem. They will probably be prepared to route round in their scrap tyres to find something that fits (they don't need to be the correct width, profile or have tread, just something that fits the arches and holds air). Most likely to just charge a nominal amount for fitting as of course they won't need balancing 😁 More likely with an independent than a big chain, but at the end of the day it's all down to the manager
  23. This is what you should have. The clutch/brake assembly 1 shown is RHD, but the LHD one is essentially the same except handed. The accelerator pedal 2 is RHD, 3 is LHD. The clutch/brake pedals are simply bolted from below with four 1/4 unf bolts into the captive nuts on the pedal bracket. The bolts go through the pre drilled holes in the chassis plate welded to the front T that fits under the front of the footwell and through the similar holes in the shell. The accelerator brackets on the RHD linkage are bolted though holes in the floor of the front luggage compartment. I don't know about LHD but it looks like the bracket just uses screws! From your question it sounds like someone may have dismantled the brake/clutch assembly and parts might be missing. Whilst it can be done (I've done it) it was not designed to be dismantled and is brazed together. New ones are available from the usual suspects and I believe there is someone in the states making them out of stainless steel, try google. The reason it may have been dismantled is that there is no sensible way of lubricating the pivot bushes on the pedals and if left unused for a long time these can stiffen up or seize. When rebuilding mine I drilled a 1/8" hole at the top of each pivot tube. I squirt a drop of oil in there every now and again and it seems to work ok.
  24. SJ sportscars sell new dashboards and crash pads, but the brackets etc I don't think are available from anyone new. If you can find another owner who will let you copy them then they are not complex otherwise it's scan ebay and hope or try Richard at Europa Engineering who has a bigger stock of S/H parts than anyone http://www.banks-europa.co.uk/index.php He has farmed out the new parts business which is now on a separate website but for S/H you still need to talk to Richard. BTW he is not keen on emails and prefers a phone call.
  25. In typical Lotus fashion the dash is structural and serves many functions. It adds significantly to the overall torsional rigidity of the car. The dash is attached at the top by 4 chromed Philips bolts to the bobbins in the panel under the windscreen. These 4 holes in the dash are lined with metal sleeves for rigidity, most repro dash's don't include the sleeves. There is someone on ebay who sells the sleeves but at a stupid price. The dash is attached from behind through the 2 holes at the bottom with 2 bolts into 2 small L brackets (not shown) to the 2 chassis/body bolts just in front of the gear lever. This is also where the electrics in this area earth. The horseshoe opening is for the main loom and the 2 slots for the window switch wires. The bolt hole above the horseshoe opening is not used. Bracket 7 attaches the centre console. There is a bottom trim (not shown and the diagram that does is useless) that attaches through the series of holes along the bottom of the main dash. This is an L of metal going in front and under the dash padded on the front and vinyl covered. It's in 2 pieces split at the steering wheel opening. It has studs welded to it for attachment through the holes in the dash and also acts as an earth bus for quite a few of the instruments etc. The steering wheel bracket 4 is attached to it as are the 2 side brackets 5 and 6. The side brackets bolt to the A pillar through the slot in the bracket but in fabulous Lotus ingenuity use the door courtesy lamp switches as the bolts! These BTW are from a Morris Minor (not the mini one) and are readily available from Morris Minor specialists and quite often on ebay. https://www.morrisminor.org.uk/parts/56-interior-no-plate-light-trav-reflectors/2165-switch-interior-lamp-courtesy-light So the dash provides structural attachment of the chassis to the main shell under the screen and to the A pillars tying it all together which is also typical in light aircraft design. Hope that helps
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