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gusexige

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  • Name
    k
  • Car
    Exige, Excel, +2
  • Location
    US

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  1. I think he is saying that he has one out of the car. Popping the lid and taking some pics of what can be seen close up in focus would allow some speculation on condition Generally the 2nd gear synchro is the most worn[since it is used more and frequently harder]
  2. I have not rebuilt a 5 speed, but have done a ford 4 speed Not really that complex. Pull the cover off and look at the dogs and synchros. Each gear has little doghouse shaped 'dogs' that the peak of the roof if you will gets rounded. Each synchro has the same that mate with the shifter hub. These start getting rounded day one, but if they stop looking like doghouse roofs and start looking like igloos: dead mainshaft bearings don't usually die. countershaft bearings do. Anyway, take the cover off and loo at what is going on.
  3. So as an 87 SE, I believe the car should have the lozenge 'Wickens' badges. I don't plan on putting them on, just if they are original, I ought to have them 3 total, nose and each B pillar. It think the B pillar trims are different also as the badge shape is different All should be in good visual shape, but need not be perfect I would like to find the mechanical parts for the central door locking, I will just buy a kit for electronics, but need the actuators and whatever goes in the doors actuators should be functional Could use a LHD, left mirror. with flat glass Of course both mirror covers are cracked, but I think that is what it is..... Not in any rush, I am in the US, so be willing to ship Thanks!
  4. Per Lucas color chart, there should be a 'white' wire going from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor, and a white with a yellow coming from it In theory......
  5. It does not shut off the compressor It either changes the duty cycle of the compressor or the temperature of the system, I cannot tell which Appears to be a Toyota thing, as they had a similar button
  6. It is not obvious from the wiring diagrams as the switches are not represented with internal logic.
  7. People hated them so much I think they have become rare. I have to set about finding the right ones for my 87 Excel
  8. So I did a heater bypass, we'll see if that does anything BTW the thermostat is a factory part for warm weather climates
  9. running caustic chemicals through my Lotus block is not my first choice The radiator does not look OK, from the small window one can see past the fan, it appears new. Like not even dirty. Well, I did flush some water through it in case there was mud or something that I could not see. Fins still have paint on them. The car has no evidence of sitting or lying fallow or getting run down. It is of course possible.
  10. Also one thing I noticed when checking the temperature, the temp below the thermostat is significantly lower than the temp above. Two different thermostats
  11. It is not instrument error. I have double checked as recently as this afternoon with a non contact thermometer and the reading for just below the thermostat is essentially identical. The fans run together[by design] and the correct direction The water pump was replaced by the PO's shop 10000 km ago. The AC condenser appears newer[painted black and newer than the brackets] visible part of the radiator appears in good shape. If you start it and idle it it will eventually come up to temp and run to the fan thermostat at 84-88C back and forth Today it was in the mid 80s F[29C] I went to the post office, downtown driving, let it idle outside, maybe 90C Drove in some traffic, and out a slowish country road, stopped for a construction project and cruised along, and it reached 102 C or so. Shut off the AC and it quickly dropped After work I drove out onto the highway at ~120kmh, heading towards warmer area, solid 88C Turned around at an interchange,two stop signs up to 95C. Back on the highway quickly down to 92C, slowly by the time I returned to my exit it was back down to 88C My thinking: Were it the radiator old, clogged etc, it would have trouble on the highway as it is creating power and a bad radiator would not be able to get rid of it While it might be an undersized radiator it does not seem to be the problem I am leaning towards the fans being crap. They 'work' but it is not like they blow your hair back Perhaps newer style fans will work the way they should. My +2 has a new style fan and once I forgot to turn it on when the thermo switch had died, and it pulled it down from 110C to 95 in a few minutes
  12. I understand that, but it is my feeling this exceeds that effect, and does not appear to be directly related to outside temperature. Could be I am chasing my tail, but it does not seem 'right'
  13. It have done fairly extensive work with the gauges. I ended up building a daisy chain 12 volt and ground buss behind the gauges to stabilize the readings. They read relatively correctly now, although small variances continue https://www.lotusexcel.net/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=11677 I have checked the instrument against a non contact thermometer under the thermostat, before my wiring mod, and it was predictable even with the error The fans run correctly and in the correct direction, new relay installed recently, and if it was an issue that was fan related I would expect it to disappear once moving over 25 mph, but it does not. It is puzzling again for its almost total relation to the AC and how instantly it responds to shutting the AC off.
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