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Mark T

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  • Name
    Mark Tritten
  • Car
    Lotus Elite 502
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  1. Thanks Tony for the pics. Hope you find the energy to complete this restoration project. She will certainly look beautiful once done!! Saw your post in lotuexcel. You provided loads of useful information. Thanks! Will you get a Getrag Gearbox installed? My seat are interesting indeed, but not leather. Vinyl too, like yours. The front pattern is a corduroy-ish brushed vinyl. It's really just vertical stitching (see photo). Mark
  2. the door trim off and was relieved to see the frame legs are still in good shape and very little rust visible. Luckily I was able to loosen all 5-6 frame bolts after a squirt of WD40, add washers to the top forward 2 bolts and tighten things up again. The electric window was a bit of a fiddle, as an ideal frame angle resulted in the motor stalling when closing the window. Had to remove a 1mm shim washer to releive the strain. The frame-seal contact is better now, but not as tight as I'd like it. Will add rubber strips to the inner frame race to increase seal compression. You guys good advice was much welcomed and it worked! πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
  3. Thanks for your advice. The contact, or lack of, is along the top edge from A to B post, especially at the top front rounding near the Quarter light glass vertical strip. The door is quite rigid along the beam when twisting, so looks like this is OK. Will need to remove the inner door trim over the weekend and sneak a peak inside to assess the situation 🀞. Hope the lower window frame has not rusted away. Went for my first real drive Sunday after Swiss MOT pass...and what a joy!! This car is an import, so not MOT, no registration, no plates, no drive...So want to use it a bit before uncovering new areas of concern
  4. Cheers! They are original I think. Previous owner was very careful with his Lotus. He loved the car, but could no longer drive it due to health problems. So you have leather/vinyl + corduroy? LOL...think we are going off topic here. Maybe should open another thread related to car pics, etc...
  5. Some pics as requested. Bought the car from a Belgian gentleman back in June. Car got a galvanized chassis at some point. Great drive this weekend in sunny autumn …just need to sort out my fans who blow 25A fuse all the time (torpedo melts...) and a weird rear clonking sound when decelerating...maybe the exhaust...hopefully 🀞 Tony, send pics of your Elite too. Lagoon Blue is a great color πŸ‘. How much restoration is needed? Found a YouTube vid of my Elite done by previous owner. Date unknown...
  6. Thanks Andy. Though to do the later as you suggested. Appears the door adjusting job can be quite a challenge to get right. The entire door GRP part (lower) aligns perfectly with the body. Just the upper window frame flutters. Thinking of adjusting/sliding the striker plate slightly inboards.
  7. Good Day everyone, Reviving this thread after more than a decade gone silent. Hope some of you are still out a about Got a 1976 Lotus Elite 502 and, same problem as Greg D., my LHD driver door window frame does not compress the upper door seal. Been looking at the Elite/Eclat manual, but not really getting anywhere. Is there a trick to adjust the window frame without removing the panels etc.? Any good advice welcomes. Cheers Mark
  8. Good Day, Swiss MoT -> unconditional passthis morning. So all good πŸ₯³ Thank Pete and all for your great advice! Next job: Timing belt, alternator, tyres and adjust the LH door. Not flush with the frame.
  9. Got it! Thanks Pete! Makes sense now! Will let you know if this works out and the handbrake becomes more efficient than just sticking my hand out as an auxiliary airbrake....
  10. Thanks Pete. Yes, my cut outs are just like yours - all 3 of them, and give me access to various points at the rear diff. The handbrake cable assembly sold by SJ comprises the wire, plastic reinforced sleeve with end fixtures, a bellow, etc. Are you saying I should attach the new cable assy to the old one at the handbrake location - i.e tie the new cable "drum brake / clevis end" to the old cable "handbrake end" , and then pull the old cable rearwards @ diff end through the chassis together with the new cable assy? Why all these questions? I do not yet have a car lift, only 30 cm jacks very limited access under the car. Do not want to pull something out and fail to reassemble To soldave: I replaced the rear brake pads and auto adjusters. I hope they should hold. The handbrake is...a pain right now.
  11. Good day, Finally got my cut outs done (not as nice as Pete's - but great to have now!!) and working on the brakes to pass MoT. Having some hard time getting the handbrake to "bite" enough to hold the car on a 16% ramp. Thinking of replacing the handbrake cable...but the question tough is this job with the body on the chassis? Anyone has some experience/tricks to share?
  12. Hi Pete, looking at your pics more closely, I was wondering what cutting tool you used. Dremel, oscillating cutter? Your cut outs are very clean and even...nice job! Looking to do a good job as well.
  13. Thanks a lot Pete. Very useful information. Blimey, your car look immaculate! Not a trace of oil or dirt!! Will post pics once done. The starter on my B GT V8 is blown. Took it out today...had to remove steering rack, RH manifold and exhaust to get to the bolts...lovely!
  14. Thanks Pete....can't wait to give her a spin...just need to get the driveshaft UJs replaced and fri*n brake cable sorted...
  15. Thanks Gents...indeed, a cutout between the rear seat makes sense. Thanks for the good advice. Another post on the topic does recommend holes. Something to do tomorrow! To rjwool...classic 1970s 14" Wolfrace rims as an alternative to Turbine ones like mine look just as good IMHO...and are cheaper to get.
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