
Djs44
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Posts posted by Djs44
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10 minutes ago, Fridge said:
I think my restoration thread has some photos of the chassis at assembly stage.
@madrockethas a LotusBits exhaust system on his uprated S1, I helped him install the 2.2L engine and transmission back in December 2016. He may be able to shed some light on how it fits.
If your chassis has the later S1 cross braces, with the version from SJ Sportscars which allows their stainless steel manifold to be fitted you may have installed the bar incorrectly. I did originally. No instructions. Then Steve at SJ Sportscars talks to you as if you're an idiot and not a Vulcan mind reader. There is certainly a bit on that in my restoration thread.
Thanks David .
All the pipes fit except no3 and the foul Is between the pipe and the actual chassis - the removable braces actually fit !
I’ll ask Mike to take a look - they’ve been really helpful throughoutI’ve had a similar conversation reference Vulcan lol .
And @changes has been very patient waiting for the chassis .
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Tocus
Nice to see those pics again - I bought it from Malta . It is well travelled - exported to New Zealand, returned to the UK , then to you in Holland , then Malta , then back home . The speedo only says 30000 miles though 🤣
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12 minutes ago, Fridge said:
Oh wow. By how much is it obstructing the gearshift?
I assume the car didn't operate with this engine before strip down?
I'd guess that if the nut wasn't there it would be ok ... it " wants " to go straight through it .
You may not remember that the car was partially stripped when I bought it - hence my questions about brake pipe runs ( not that I got an answer 😜) etc . It's all new to me .
The engine is a different one based on a 2.2 bottom end
- speaking with Lotusbits , they quite often have to " tweak " the links to fit .
I suspect they will be doing mine when I take them the chassis to get the exhaust fitted as no matter what I do , one pipe fouls the chassis ( hence my engine mount q - I'm with you ref twisting them , not good ) and I've wasted enough time on it .
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3 hours ago, Fridge said:
Check the gear linkage with the WSM as it is easy to assemble and fit incorrectly. It is close to the sump, but should not be near to fouling if fitted correctly.
There is latitude in which to move the engine slightly, but this will rest in a position, and you do not want to put an undue twisting pressure on it as the exhaust side one is prone to premature failing as it is.
Which upright, the gearbox/rear brake mounting with the 5 bushes in it?
The original engine has a different sump to the one fitted - the new engine has 3 bolts across the front and the intermediate gear change shaft wants to go straight through the one on the right ....
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Not much progress but getting closer to "meeting its body" .
Water hoses , one brake pipe , exhaust and gear linkage ( the middle link fouls the sump , so needs tweaking ) . Oh and I cracked one of the rear uprights ... 🤬
I'm told the engine position can be adjusted by twisting the engine mounts . is this the case ?
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8 hours ago, Rolls said:
Hello everyone,
I wanted to revisit the topic of fuel tanks.
Looking at SJ’s the welds seem to be acceptable but far from perfect. I also note there aren’t any pressings on the top.
My question is who makes the best tanks for an S2?thanks
I have a pair from Lotusbits - I'll post some pics if you like ?
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Can anyone post up some pics of the rear brake pipes in situ please ? S2
thanks
DJS 44
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1 hour ago, 910Esprit said:
The rubber sleeved brake pin is the trailing pin. Plain pin is leading
So plain at the bottom ?
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Couple of questions
1. The sliding bolts I have for the rear (PNM) brake calipers are of 2 types - one type has a rubber sleeve on it , the other doesn't . I assume that they are used in pairs - i.e. one rubber and one plain one per caliper - does anyone know and if this is correct , which one goes at the top ?
2. I have new rear wheel bearings . When refitting the driveshafts , how tight are these in the bearings - do then need a bit of force to fit - how best to action ?
3. The cross gate linkage kit ( from SJ ) includes a bronze bush and a rubber sleeve - anyone have a pic of where these go ?? Also , is there a rubber grommet fitted where the cable goes through the chassis
Lastly - should the gear change mechanism ( by that I mean the bits at the bottom of the gear lever ) be greased ??
Thanks for any advice .
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9 minutes ago, John Bond said:
Hi guys
I am the one who applied for it ... and did buy it in the end although for a much higher price than expected, but more bond fans than I anticipated ... (the starting price was £400)
So obviously if not more money than sense here
I can confirm it will be fitted nicely on a white S1 (who will be going through a full refurbishment to look exactly like PPW 306R very soon). I also have a beautiful 1982 Esprit Turbo Copperfire and a White Esprit Turbo 1981 (bought from gentlemen from this forum, the only one of two with brown interior and rooftop radio, the other one is more famous).
They all (will) have special licence plate numbers
Excellent everning everyone
Nice collection - any pics ?
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40 minutes ago, LOTUSMAN33 said:
That thing is a work of art!
Are you going to wrap it? You’ll definitely want a heat shield over that chassis bar as the paint will get cooked. Your chassis is in amazing condition as well.
Will the chassis brace bar still fit on this side with that exhaust?Have you got any washers fitted between the radius arm and the mount?
This things going to fly, I see you have a crank sensor ring on the pulley so going injection with ECU route… 😎
Dave
Thanks for the feedback Dave
It does look nice and now I know how to fit it ... I think I'll fit some heat shield material to the chassis and have some for the mount .
I haven't put any washers in - I have some but I plan to get the geo done once it is ready .
I didn't try the chassis brace yet and have removed the exhaust to trial fit the gear linkage - think I have a foul on the sump ( and then probably the exhaust 🤪) . I need to buy the heat silencer mount as mine is missing .
I have mapped ignition but have kept the carbs . 240bhp/ton 😍
The disc inserts are out so I'll have a go at the brakes tomorrow . See what needs fettling ...
@changes is ready for the chassis and is being very patient , which is appreciated .
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1 hour ago, LOTUSMAN33 said:
Good effort, looking smart 😎
Have you sealed up your gearbox end cover yet? I see you haven’t installed the silencer mount that’s all which means releasing the fastenings again if so.
Do you have a picture of how that mounts - that's one of the bits that was in the boxes ....
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Engine in .
A shortage of key nuts ( engine mounts ) meant I didn't get the engine in until today .
I need to get the chassis rolling and I've forgotten to get the caliper mounting brackets cleaned up so I think I'll fit the discs and driveshafts and calipers can go on later .
Next up are the brake and clutch pipes , gear linkage and exhaust and water pipes if they arrive.
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I've only got a brand new combine harvester Barry ...
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51 minutes ago, skiing said:I have this exhaust - it sounds really great - apparently it is bit of a pig to fit though - tolerances are v small - I also put some heat wrap around the chassis tubes as it passes very close and tends to cook any paint off quite quickly.
I've just been looking for heat wrap - what did you use ?
2 hours ago, Fridge said:A different sump casting than normal?
Yes , its not the original engine ( that's in the garage ) - its based on a 2.2 engine which I guess is a bit younger ?
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Engine now finished on the dyno - 240bhp at 7300rpm and strong torque . Bit of cammyness at 4500rpm
. Mike says with bigger carbs it would make 260-270 bhp but as it will mainly be a road car I don't want to compromise its road manners too much , so that's all good.
The engine will now be assembled with the lightweight flywheel and clutch to the gearbox , the exhaust manifold and system are finished and the brake pipes coming .
I'm running out of excuses now ....
Once the engine etc are in and the chassis rolling , @changes has "requested" that he fits the body , so he'll collect the chassis . He's rebuilt the window motors which were seized.
Progress .
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8 hours ago, drdoom said:
The alloy spacers will be fine, just might transmit noise. Give 'em a go, not terribly hard to change if you fancy that. Don't recall the general spec of your engine, surely must be the 2.5 capacity at that torque output?
drdoom - yes its a Lotusbits 2.5l engine with steel crank and rods and his rally spec cams .Still running carbs which is what is causing some of the delay on the dyno - Mike normally runs these cams with injection.
I have kept the original engine, which had been partially dismantled before I got it, in case at some stage it needs to be returned to standard .
JPS Project
in Esprit 'Project & Restoration' Room
Posted
Yes , the original calipers were not with the car so I had to fit new ones .