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  1. Can anyone advise on this. On a few rare occaisions, although it is increasing, having applied the brakes ( I have a servo) the brakes stay on for about a second then release. once moving, the car runs freely. None of the callipers are seized having just been re-built. I guess it is either the master cylinder or the servo. Has anyone experienced this ? If I have it on blocks and try to simulate it without the engine running all wheels run freely. That hints at servo to me. Any thoughts ? David
  2. Success ! I have a working horn. Thank you. David
  3. Found it, no wonder I never spotted that ! I only got this last September and it's certainly not as easy to work on as my MGB. Lets just say every job is a challenge. My first few months were spent stripping and servicing the brakes and getting an operational handbrake. I got a company to make up some bowden cables to replace those crazy rods and with adjusters at both ends I have an excellent handbrake If only I could reach the handle with a seat belt on. It's still great fun however. I hate oil leaks, and I think iv'e given up at the moment trying to stop them ( maybe an engine out job next winter) I'm slowly working through the electrics as the previous owner has played around with certain things making following the wiring diagram difficult to use. It would appear the handbrake warning light has not been wired through the ignition circuit so it remains on if the handbrake is on. Fortunately an isolator switch has been fitted. I'm sure I'll find more anomalies. Thanks again for your help. David
  4. Many thanks for that. It turned out to be a fracture in the bridging wire over the flexible coupling at the bottom of the column. Not easy to get at but with the rad out I sorted it. However !! It just gave up again today and again I have a good earth at the bottom but not at the top so again it looks like a similar problem despite making sure I used a very flexible piece of wire and good end connections. This time I think I have a bigger problem. If I take a negative feed off the battery earth an touch it to the output side of the horn button I would have expected the horn to work but it did'nt. I see you make reference to the anti theft device which takes one of the wires to the horn push and I'm now wondering if this is the other part of the problem. I can see it on the wiring diagram but where is it physically and what does it look like ? David
  5. What two oils to members recommend for the diff and gearbox on a 1979 Elan Sprint. The oils in the handbook are no longer available. David
  6. I've only had my 1970 Elan Sprint for a few months and feel it is time to check the oil levels in the gearbox and diff and renew. The oils recommended in the handbook appear to be no longer available. What do you recommend for each ? Thanks David
  7. Hello all. I have a 1970 Elan Sprint DHC. Negative earth with Dynamo. I'm Fighting to get the horn working. With the horn off and 12 volts across the terminals it works fine. It was my understanding but I might be wrong, with the ignition on then the horn always has a positive feed to it and that when pressing the horn it put a negative earth to it. I cannot get an earth at the top of the steering column anywhere and I was then thinking I need to find out where the column gets it's earth from. However I now find that one of the wires going to the horn is a good earth so I guess my thinking is wrong. I get 12 volts on the multimeter from earth to the fuses so that's fine. When I go between earth on the chassis and the other wire that goes to the horn I get 0.11 Volts so presumably there is some resistance somewhere, maybe a relay ? I'm determined to resolve it. Any ideas ? David
  8. Thank you for responding Mark. I have removed all the bolts mentioned but I cannot get at the bolt head securing the spindle assy as the body is about an inch behind it and the diff about an inch in front and if I was able to undo it I would not be able to withdraw it. The only solution seems to be to raise the body about an inch. I have not tried the two bolts behind the dash as I was hoping with all the others removed it might flex enough to give me the inch I need. Someone has done a real bodge on it last time with cheap and nasty bolts at the inboard end of the brake rods and bent the rods presumably in an attempt to get them shorter. If I can just get the spindle assy out I plan on making up some new rods using bowden cable with the ends brazed on and make them adjustable. The whole thing revolves around getting the spindle assy out. I'm very worried about cracking the body if I jack it up to hard. After about 1/4" of lift I can see the bolt head as the body parts from the chassis then the chassis lifts as well. Something must be stopping it. David I meant to say, what are you calling the strut towers ? David
  9. I recently bought a 1970 Lotus Elan Sprint, From what I read, the handbrakes seem to be almost non existant. Mine falls in that category ! Someone has previously played around with the swivel/pivot mechanism behind the diff and I need to get it out to carry out a repairs. To remove it I need to gain access to the bolt that secures it but to do so I need to raise the body about 1" I have removed all the bolts as far forward as the two near the gear box plus all seat belt mounts and seat runner bolts. I am obviously being careful where I lift it but can only seperate the body by 1/4" and can just see a bit of the bolt head I need to remove. I would have expected that having taken out the majority of the bolts the body would have flexed a tiny bit to give me the 1" gap I need. I can help but feel there is another obscure bolt/s somewhere stopping it lifting. Any ideas ? David
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