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ripley5000 last won the day on December 1 2020

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  1. It's a good point - from my research there seems to be a variety of answers of 6V and 9V once ignition is on. I'm assuming that in my case 9V is correct on the basis that it's the parts from SJ Sportscars and hence I'd expect these to be the correct ones. I think the old coil, whilst it worked, was not actually the correct coil for the car as looking at the invoice it was supplied and fitted by a general autoshop so I guess they may not have done too much research into the correct part.
  2. New coil fitted from SJ today and so far all is good, on the SJ coil it states it’s a ballast coil so I checked the voltage to the coil to verify that the car was using the resistor wire and confirmed that 12v with ignition on and 9v when running. So in theory the car is as Lotus intended it but with electronic ignition rather than points. After fitting e coil the first thing I noticed was he car starts better. From cold it previous took 4 or 5 attempts for the car to start, now it starts first time I let the car warm up then took it for a short drive of about 6 miles (worried it w
  3. Thanks everyone - the car had a reconditioned distributor fitted with electronic ignition last month when it was in at SJ. I've ordered a new coil (from SJ) to see if this fixes the problem. The current coil was very hot when the problem occurred. The PO kept the original wiring loom and it looks like it has the pink resistor wire. I'm thinking that by trying both coil and distributor from SJ with the original wiring then in theory this should be the correct configuration and hopefully solves the problem.
  4. Electronic ignition. Today the car would start so the problem appears to be when the car is driven for some extended time that the coil gets hot and then fails. Once the car cools down then it will start again. Previous owner had the same problem and replaced the coil and electronic ignition but problem has re-occurred
  5. Took my S1 out today for a long drive in the good weather (about 50 miles). It was all going so well until I turned onto the main road close to home car cut out and would not restart. Fortunately I was close to home so pushed it back!! Car cranks and turns over well so i pulled the main coil lead to see If there was a spark but nothing. Connections to the coil look ok so I’m guessing it’s the coil that’s at fault. Any suggestions for troubleshooting as the coil is quite new as the car has recently been restored. thanks paul
  6. Thanks - never go over 4,000 rpm in it so certainly no 'tail out' action :)
  7. I'm looking for tyres for my 1978 S1 and would like a decent brand but the only front size of 205/60 R14 that comes up are Nankang tyres - can anyone recommend a good place to source tyres or has anyone tried the Nankang ones? Thanks
  8. I should add that I also installed or rather extended the power and Earth wires from the fan up to the top of the inspection cover. This way if the resistor pack ever fails again at least I can easily wire in a direct switch to the fan without having to take anything apart again
  9. Wow, be interested to see how many weeks/months/years that will take. the previous owner of my car who restored it kept a spreadsheet of costs. It’s quite frightening to see them and of course that doesn’t include the hours that go into it! good luck
  10. A known problem on Elise/exige is the location of the heater fan resistor pack. It’s mounted underneath the fan inside the chassis in a area that has no drainage so it sits in water and corrodes and ultimately fails. I read at what a pain this was to fix due to the difficult location and access so I thought I’d share my experience and hopefully some hints/tips. My car is a 2004 NA Exige without A/C. If you have a/c the there more connections that are required to be removed. the front claim absolutely needs to be removed to get access access as the image below. The heater matrix and f
  11. Thanks All - It's an S1 - Steve at SJ confirmed they should be 25mm in length. Car is booked in for him to do it and put new inserts in. They can do it without removing the engine
  12. What should the correct length of bolts be on this engine mount? The ones I removed were 20mm in length but the hole depth looks to me like it could be 25mm? Looks like the threads are stripped on two of the holes as the bolts just spin. Is this an engine out job to get them helicoiled or has anyone being able to do this with engine in situ?
  13. What size/spec and torque would this bolt be (where the missing bolt should be in the pic) - it's the right hand side engine mounting on an S1. Thanks, Paul
  14. Looks a really neat and simple install. What size did you order - the website suggests t200e. I plan to add one to the engine cover of my S1
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