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Paul_D

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About Paul_D

  • Birthday 26/03/1979

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  • Name
    Paul
  • Car
    Lotus Exige 410
  • Location
    Lowestoft, Suffolk

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  1. All sorted. Even though I’d only recently downloaded it, somehow I didn’t have the latest version of Race Studio. Updating that and retransmitting to the AIM has fixed everything. (although strangely I now get a message on Race Studio when the upload has finished saying that the transmission has generated errors)
  2. I fitted my AIM dash today without any issues. Despite being 6ft I can see the shift lights fine. Perhaps I’m long legged and short bodied??? I have unfortunately got the same problem that other people had - if I upload my own configuration for shift lights and displays the ‘MODE’ icon for Normal, Sport & Race now shows Error. Everything else works fine. Did anybody ever find a solution to this?
  3. I believe the extras on top of normal are: Spark plugs Drive Belt Coolant Transmission Oil Inline filter (if fitted)
  4. Yeah, that’s what I was thinking. Even if the steering wheel mod alone isn’t quite enough, you might be able to change to just a 3 or 4mm drop on the unit so the filled in area is less obvious. 🙂
  5. It’s in this thread which is a mixture of spacers and height raising.
  6. I too like trying cheap first! There’s a mod where you move the standard steering wheel up by 10-15mm by adding some washers between the column and the mounting bracket. People have done it previously just to get a better wheel position from what I can gather. I suddenly remembered reading about it on here and am now wondering if it would be enough to let me see the shift lights.
  7. Obviously I haven't seen for myself yet how much the top is blocked, but I wonder if the 'shim the steering wheel up by 10mm' mod might be worth me trying first.
  8. Thank you. I may well do something similar when mine arrives. I'm 6 foot, and I'd really like to be able to see the shift lights.
  9. Sounds interesting. How big was the gap that you had to fill? I'm guessing the was a slight overlap as standard so dropping by 8mm wouldn't necessarily create an 8mm gap?
  10. Looks fantastic. Congratulations. Before I bought mine I enquired about a 410 in that colour but it had already sold. Nice list of planned modifications too.
  11. Not on a Lotus, but I’ve found them to be brilliant on heavier things. (M3’s, Porsches) They can be noisy, and the do give off dust but it’s very easy to remove and not aggressive. I never found the initial bite to be too high, or the pads hard to modulate at different temperatures so I can’t see why they wouldn’t work on the lighter Exige.
  12. Next on the list of things to do was change the way my exhaust worked. From early on, the car had been fitted with the Komotec remote control exhaust override kit. This let you choose either permanently closed or permanently open from a key fob. I wanted to get rid of this for a few reasons. 1) It seemed to be playing up a bit, and would keep randomly closing the exhaust when it should be open, 2) it's a bit risky as the exhaust will not open automatically at 4500rpm to protect the engine, and 3) fumbling for the key fob and pressing a button is not the most user friendly of activities. I ordered the standard Lotus Switch and fitted it to the cowling. The next step was to go to the engine bay and figure out the komotec kit and how to reverse it. Once I removed the plastic covers, this was what I was met with: The right hand solenoid is the Komotec one which had been attached alongside the standard one. T-Pieces had obviously been added to the vacuum piping to supply it and the output tee'd into the tubing going to the exhaust. "This should be easy" I thought, "I just need to remove the pipes from the Komotec solenoid and blank them off. I did exactly that, then fired up the engine. Pressed the button on the dash, and got 'EX OPEN' displayed. No change in exhaust note though. I could hear something happening in the engine bay when I pressed the button though, so I knew the switch and ECU were trying to do something. The exhaust works by having vacuum pressure applied to the actuator. When you want to open the valve, you remove the vacuum. But you also need to vent the pressure, otherwise it will be trapped and nothing will happen. I removed the solenoid from the car and blew into each port. At this point I realised it was bottom port which is vented to atmosphere when the solenoid is closed. As you can see from the photo the exhaust tubing had been attached to the top port at some point. I refitted the solenoid back to the car, swapped the top and bottom tubes around and everything now works perfectly. (The noise I could hear in the engine bay when I pressed the button was the vacuum tank being vented to atmosphere). The plastic covers I removed were looking a bit tatty, so while they were off I gave them a good clean, and a coating of CQuartz Lite to rejuvenate and protect them. Before: After:
  13. Today was stereo upgrade day. First job, same as many many Elise / Exige owners...swap the dash speakers for a set of Focals. As a side note, I highly recommend one of these miniature Bahco socket sets. Very handy. Next up was the subwoofer. For this I chose a relatively new unit, the Pioneer TS-WX010A. The marketing blurb describes it as a unit designed for electric vehicles: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gewYQm5828 What this means in practice is that it's light, small, low power consumption, and designed to be kicked when sat in the footwell. So it's perfect for the Exige. This is the rear of the sub: I decided I wanted to Velcro it to carpet, same as people normally do. I probably could have stuck the velcro on directly, but made up a little mounting plate instead. Thanks to this forum, I knew to remove this cover and route the cables along the channel behind. Taped up the cables with some felt tape to make it all look a bit neater. Then finally mounted the sub in the passenger footwell. There's a little step about halfway up, so I mounted it here to leave as much legroom as possible. Then cable tied the cabling to any convenient points. After doing a bit of testing, I made the decision to power the sub from the head unit wiring. Neither the Sub or the head unit draw that much current in reality, and I am pretty confident that I will not suffer from any nuisance fuse blowing, even with the standard fuse only being 7.5Amps. The fuse should always protect the cabling anyway, and that will be rated to handle over 7.5 amps continuously. With the sub mounted in the location I chose, taller people won't even see it when they're sat in the seat. Finally I fitted the new Pioneer SPH-10BT head unit and boxed everything back up. I only had a very quick play, but it all sounds really good and I'm very happy. And it's another job off the list.
  14. Yep, I reckon those dimensions are about perfect. I think that would just extend past the mounting pads I’ve fitted. 👍
  15. I know what you’re saying, but that would remove the BS mark as it’s in the far right corner and technically make it illegal. It would also make the black border look wrong. I would want to have one made to my specific measurements to have a legal shorter plate that looked ok.
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